JasonG

Yes, true. Thanks for the reminder. It ain't all cute kittens and puppies.

Mountain Forecast is garbage, at least in my experience. NWS point forecasts are pretty good usually, esp. if you read the forecast discussion to get a sense for how solid they are feeling. I pair NWS with UW WRF-GFS 4km grid. Typically "1 hour precip loop for western WA" and the "column-integrated cloud water". Those two products are pretty nice to show you the evolution through the day and when to expect clouds and precip. https://a.atmos.washington.edu/wrfrt/data/timeindep/gfsinit.d3.6hr.html Of course, they are all all wrong to some degree, and you will win some weekends.....and lose others. But it is a lot better now than it was 25 years ago!

I thought it much better than expected! And I think pro was available when needed, or maybe my mind is going? Basically I thought that if NE Buttress of J'Berg is in a select guide, this should be. I thought it much better climbing, and you can't beat the position or the attitude it exudes as you drive by on Hwy 2. Don't look away!

Well done AAI and @Jason_Martin!

Anybody know any details about this accident? Incredibly sad. Condolences to his friends and family, especially his wife and kids. https://www.seattletimes.com/seattle-news/obituaries/mountaineer-who-died-in-north-cascades-remembered-as-devoted-father-christian/

Yeah guys, well done!! The Index Traverse is about as wild a first date as there is! Glad I could play matchmaker for this and I am not the least surprised that you guys dispatched the trip in fine blue collar fashion. Love that bivy between the Middle Index summits!

so casual.

Ah, thanks @Trent, I should have guessed about the grandfathering that the Navy enjoys. And, to be clear, I love seeing those planes ripping around. It is amazing to watch. Drones, not so much. Thanks @rat, all good points.

Wow, @cfire, that looks a lot more fun.

All you tech wizards, PLEASE HELP OUT THE SITE BY CONTACTING @olyclimber!!!

Just please answer the question @sulinelanie.

Ha! Well, glad it worked out for you. And glad that somebody else is lugging a big camera around in there!

Indeed, a truly great shot, esp. at 70mm!

Think again. They have 4WD and built in crampons! I have seen them scamper across slopes in seconds that would take us ages with all of our fancy gear. GREAT report and images, thanks! Looks like you brought a fancy dSLR and some lenses up there?

That looks lovely! Never have camped there....

Well done salvaging the trip! Not easy to maintain upwards momentum on Rainier after something like that foray.

I didn't know this, but I guess I should have. In light of the Navy ripping around a few hundred feet off the deck (they commonly violate the 500' AGL rule) in Wilderness this prohibition seems a bit misplaced, but I guess the law is the law. Still, I can't help but admire the guts and skill it takes to climb a major peak in the wilderness and fly to safety. Totally incredible and has kicked open the doors of my mind as to what is possible in the North Cascades. But I am definitely in favor of the drone ban in wilderness areas, and I will hunt you down if you are flying one near me. 😄

Mid September you'll need to stay on the rock to avoid blue ice on the ice traverse, or so I've heard. I hear it goes fine though. You could have a bit of fresh snow here and there depending on the year, or it could be warm and dry. But this route is climbable across a wide season.

Black is a good one! Right on the edge of the park. Corteo is a fun scramble if you don't mind soloing exposed 4th class. McGregor out of Stehekin is a good scramble. Silverstar also, though not technically in the park.

Such a great route! One of my favorites for sure.....I need to go back. Thank you for the great TR and images! For folks reading this TR in the future though, it is pretty much high summer in the Cascades right now, about a month ahead of normal. So I wouldn't really consider it in early season conditions, more like normal early-mid July conditions. Though maybe that is changing!

I think this pretty much sums it up. @kmfoerster taking care on the way back from our high point:

Is normal just too damn easy for you @Alisse? 😅

Oh, I want to see this photo! Can you upload to the site @cfire? Doesn't look like the site plays well with Google photos...

I think most find the Jefferson Park route to be in much better shape after the rime is gone, but before the 'shrund becomes problematic. You'll have more fun the next time @pgowdy!

Yes.