JasonG

I'll add my vote to the spray deletion proposal . . .Thanks to Jon and Co for running a great site!! When I look back on what has happened in the ten years since I registered, it's pretty weird: moved out of ghetto studio next to an I-5 on-ramp, bought house, got married, traveled some, had two kids . . . . and did some climbing here and there. Good thing cc.com isn't as predictable as my trajectory!

Dallas would be stoked, thanks for posting!

Did you climb the complete ridge? I've wondered if it would be better to intersect the ridge 2/3 of the way up at the major notch before the last steep bit to the summit. Early season, it looks like snow all the way up to that notch....

Thanks for the TR, talk about an adventure! The pictures are great . ..If you were going to try and get more moved to digital, Costco scans from slides (and negatives I think) for a very reasonable fee, and does a pretty good job (at least up here in the Skagit Valley). Those are some pretty amazing looking mountains!

Here, Here, that would be pretty fast for a slow poke like myself. I agree that this route is quite good and worth the walk. Solid, fun climbing at a reasonable grade, in a spectacular setting- what more can one ask for? As Nelson has indicated, and you, myself, and others have found, September is a great month to do this route.

True, true. I still think one of the best purchases I ever made was getting a pair of these 10 years ago: http://www.everestgear.com/421100.html. They are worn down quite a bit now, but still work great. I often go on summer outings wearing approach shoes or leather hikers, knowing that my crampons will work on anything. You are right that a good pair of hiking boots will get you up most of the summertime classics, but the prices for a new pair (full retail) aren't much different than lightweight moutaineering boots like the LaSportiva Trango Alp or Kayland MTX. I'd stay away from the Trango S (and ANY boot that uses that kevlar weave stuff)- my pair only lasted 11 months before they blew apart. So far the Alp is much more durable and still climbs really well. One last point on the Kayland's- unless they have changed the interior lining they used about 6+ years ago, I'd steer clear. I had a pair of the Multitractions (http://www.itchyfeet.com/footwear/womens_footwear/boots_womens_107/w_multitraction.htm) that I wore the lining out before they needed a resole. Great boots otherwise, but that is just unacceptable. You should be able to resole a pair of $300+ boots before they wear out, shouldn't you?

Good point Dane, I was trying to hold back a bit. I agree that three pairs of footwear (four, if you include rock shoes) makes the MOST sense. Builder, most lighter weight boots nowadays are designed to accept crampons with a toe clip rather than bail: http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-us/shop/climb/crampons/sabretooth-crampon The MTX does not accept the old style step ins.....

I think for the summertime both of those boots would be way overkill for anything not on a volcano. Maybe you do a different sort of climbing than I do in the summer, but these look just about right: http://en.kayland.com/details.php?id=38 That is the problem with buying a boot for all seasons around here. With the large swing in conditions between the seasons, two boots really make more sense. I understand it isn't cheap, however.

Rad- Seriously....I wasn't knocking the harness thing, been there. When you are below the tree line with your harness on, you are in the midst of a truly Cascadian experience! De-proaching South Hozomeen (convinced that there just had to be a better way down then the way we went up):

Frost wedging can move large blocks over the course of freeze thaw cycles. It's a pretty safe bet to never say never in terms weathering on cliff faces.

Kevin Thurner's North Cascades The Skagit Alpine Club will host an evening presentation by local mountain photographer Kevin Thurner on Wednesday April 6th. The show will take place at Skagit Valley College, Roberts Hall (T-31 on this map: http://www.skagit.edu/images/color_mvCampus.pdf) and will begin at approximately 7:30pm after the monthly business meeting (7pm). Kevin has been making high resolution images of the North Cascades for more than 20 years. Often sleeping upon summits and high ridgelines for the sunset and sunrise views they afford, his photographs offer a stirring perspective and a clear affection for the fine mountains many of us call home. “Photography has been very important for me and often very intertwined with the adventures I’ve pursued. We all have creative impulses that need expression and this has been a part of my own personal answer.” For this show, Kevin will be sharing a selection of his favorite images taken in the North Cascades. Please join us for what is sure to be an inspiring evening. Don't miss it!! For more on Kevin’s photographs, please visit the following links: Kevin’s website: www.kevinthurner.com Northwest Mountaineering Journal article: www.mountaineers.org/nwmj/10/101_Bivouacs.html Interview of Kevin by noted Colorado based photographer Jack Brauer: www.mountainphotographer.com/interview-with-kevin-thurner/

Just noticed the harnesses on when crossing the creek . . .Classic! On to the Hozomeen traverse!

I'll second that. One of the best TRs I've read in awhile. Thanks!

Thanks! I was looking into it as part of a rambly, scrambly traverse from Webb to Copper, returning to a second car via the Chilliwack. Sounds like it might be worth checking out if you were walking past.... ssssshhhh, don't tell homeland security.

Just wondering if anyone has first or second hand info . ..looks interesting from the short description in Beckey. . ...

Short story: We could care less what most climbers think, we're raising your fees regardless. I wish I could say I was surprised. Aside from flying barrels of turds off the mountain, I personally don't value rangers on the hill very much and said so in my comments. I haven't been in a rescue situation though, so I suppose I'm bit biased. Oh well, based on my interactions with rangers, it's hard to feel sorry for the Park Service and their budget cuts. I just wish climbers weren't singled out. I think Loren raised a number of excellent fiscal points- points that weren't taken into account in this fee increase. What next, a permit fee for NCNP?

Here's an interesting angle- these are Norwegian bugs right? There usually isn't much good that comes out of transporting bugs across continents, but if they are just house fly larvae, that cat got out of the Central Asian bag long ago . . .Still, you can see how species move all around!

I'm pretty sure the creatures feeding on the marrow are doing you a favor (provided that you keep them outside). Bugs are a time tested technique for cleaning nasty bits off rotten bones/antlers. Leave the rack outside for the summer (out of the sun- better yet, bury it) and you should be good to go. If you want to speed things up, and have access to a huge pot and large propane burner, you can boil them. It'll stink, so don't even think of doing it inside.

Email sent to Phyllis, Thanks for the heads up. . . . Alright folks, Please send an email if you love day trips in D-town!!!!!

Interesting . .. I also witnessed a large serac collapse in the evening before we were going to climb (early July 2003). While it was lower on the route and didn't cause the carnage in the linked photos, it still would have killed/maimed those in the line of fire. The only positive was that it partially filled an especially large crevasse and made the crossing the next day much quicker than if it never happened. We moved with some urgency through the section . . . I agree that the NR of Baker has much less objective hazard. Adams Gl. is probably more similar to the right side of the Coleman HW for hazard, but not quite as steep. It is a great route though, the high camp is one of the more scenic in the range.

Thanks Curt, I was looking at that face as well when we were up there. Certainly doable for the hardperson, but maybe a bit stiff for me. It would be interesting to hear if anyone has climbed that face and what they found.

Thanks for the photo compliments, I realized I left out a couple of the major views from the lookout. Looking towards Goat and Shuksan at dusk: Larabee and American Border Peak: Tomyhoi:

It's open..... they wouldn't close it until next winter at the earliest I'd suspect. Now whether or not you can get there right now without an avalanche taking you out is another story....

Some great titles! Keep 'em coming . ..

Could be climbing related or not, but compelling photos are key. I especially like the older books with B&W photos from the 30's-60's . .. think Miller's N. Cascades, Glen Denny's "Yosemite in the 60's", etc. Also the series of books that Manning, Brower, and Co. put out in support of the N. Cascades Nat'l Park and Cascade wilderness areas are pretty cool too. What are some other ideas? The Cascades are near and dear to me, but that is mainly what I know, so it would be interesting to hear what are the classics from other areas (and maybe some that I haven't heard from around here). Modern books too . . . Any other collectors out there?