JasonG

That's right, I don't think he climbed S. Hozomeen....but I need to consult the logs to know for sure.

Thanks for the excellent article from AK. Working up there for several seasons and walking salmon streams on a daily basis, I was charged several times (and one time stalked by a charging subadult male for the longest 10 minutes of my life). We always carried a gun (shotgun with slugs), but things happen so fast that it is rarely off your shoulder and ready to fire before it is over (bear usually veered at the last second, amid much cursing). Those with pepper spray always had it out and ready to spray before whomever had the gun. As a matter of fact, a co-worker's life was spared through the use of pepper spray at close range (the bear was standing over the top of her and she emptied it into its mouth). So, in my experience, pepper spray is the way to go. And make sure to make a lot of noise (doesn't always work though when it is windy or you are near rushing water). My experiences in brown bear country are also the prime reason why I am not excited about the push to recover them in the North Cascades.

Sharkfin Tower Torment or Forbidden (with a car camp) Ruth Tomyhoi White Chuck Monte Cristo The Triad Three Fingers Crater All are very scenic and most are just scrambles, but all are worth doing.

Can someone give me the short version on how their proposal might affect day/overnight use of WA/Rainy pass climbing routes. Thinking about Liberty Bell and Black Peak areas....Thanks!

On the first anniversary of his passing...pretty damn cool. Nice work Tom, quite an accomplishment. http://www.nwhikers.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=7994436

Cool! Keep these Alps TRs coming! Some day I hope to get across the pond for some climbing, but until then the interwebs will have to do....

It looks like the slings in the photo making up the tiger tails are all static ? They make specialized via ferrata gear that could be modified slightly that would give some dynamic braking in the event of a fall....falling on static slings is likely to be pretty harsh, though you probably wouldn't die.

Thanks for the TR Steph!!! Spectacular images as usual, I can see why my dad (a retired pilot who has spent a bunch of low level time in the Cascades and beyond) wonders why I spend so much time thrashing around the bushes. Airplanes get you to the views quick and easy (though not cheap)!

Thank you for the TR- I referred to it when I was researching my solo jaunt. Excellent beta! I certainly will be back to climb Big and Last Devil, and will probably bash my way down to Newhalem to do something a little different.

Oh, and for my two cents on the list, I think you have to take into consideration how you feel on the ascent (I'm pretty sure this is what Dallas was getting at). It is much more than just the numbers- loose rock, brush, uncertain route finding, brutal approach, objective hazard, etc. play an important role. All of the factors mentioned conspire to beat you down mentally and physically on the climbs that Dallas listed. Thus peaks like J'berg, West Fury, S. Hozemeen, etc......but not something like Challenger that has a long approach, and some 5th class climbing, but is actually a walk in the park in comparison.

I am in the process of scanning all of Dallas's climbing journals/logs (spanning 50 years!!). He has lists upon lists in these little black books, I will try and see what I can find..... I would love to be able to post these online, but I am not sure what the family's wishes are at this time. Stay tuned.

On a much more serious note, I spent a good deal of time yesterday thinking of Dallas, surrounded by all the peaks he loved and knew so well. It has been a year since his passing, but he is not forgotten. RIP....

Trip: Sharkfin Tower - South Ridge/SE Face Date: 9/24/2011 Trip Report: I can't believer there aren't any TRs in the database for this fine, though small, Boston Basin gem. It might not be as impressive as some of it's big neighbors, but it certainly is a "gas" to climb and easily done in one day (meaning no permit shenanigans). Of course, though this peak is guided quite a bit, I felt honored to be led to the top by one of the finest UIAGM certified alpine guides anywhere in the world: Gordo Fausto- Given his reputation, Gordo was somewhat alarmed when we pulled up at the trailhead to find it full. He explained that in Europe it was not uncommon for his groupies to mob trailheads, delaying climbs by several hours while he signed autographs. As this was his first climb in the states, thankfully he does not yet have this complication. It is only a matter of time though. Throughout the day he demonstrated why he is such a celebrity in Europe- flawless route finding, impeccable taste in attire, and a wicked yodel meant that I was being led by a modern-day alpine master. Due to his incredible efficiency and disregard for death or injury, we arrived at the summit about 4.5 hours from the car and promptly enjoyed a proper summit meal of salami, cheese, and chocolate. After an ample hour to admire the views, some quick down climbing brought us to the first rap station and a choice: head down, or do a very steep rappel off the ridge and climb the bonus 5.9/.10 pitches described in Nelson. As the climb to this point had been a bit banal by Chamonix standards, Gordo insisted we rap and climb the impeccable slab. Though we only had time for the upper of the two pitches, it was grand- highly recommended. It had a bit of lichen so could use some more traffic- call Gordo and go for it! Here are some pictures from Gordo's North Cascades debut: "What do you mean there are no lifts?" NF of Buckner, still in fine shape in September. The "exceptional" 2nd pitch, stay right on the crest for maximum enjoyment. Boston Gl. Forbidden! Eldorado and Torment! This view reminded Gordo of his beloved Weisshorn Glacier Peak and Mt. Formidable J'Berg and Quien Sabe Gl. Looking at the lower part of the 1st and upper part of the 2nd bonus pitches. Magnifico! Changing weather on the hike out: Gear Notes: Light rack, 60m half rope, crampons, axe, Gordo Approach Notes: BB trail, break off to Quien Sabe glacier at the lower camp. Find the obvious gully (no, really) below the summit and follow it up towards the perched snowfield. Where the gully forks, stay left, then head right across the snowfield to the prominent notch. Climb near the ridge. If you want to climb the bonus 5.9/.10 pitches described in Nelson, bring rock shoes, and rap from a prominent horn at the top of the 2nd pitch.

My understanding is that it is near High Pass....with a view towards the Pleiades.

Wow, even with lots of snow, I wouldn't have thought the route to still be in good shape. Thanks for the report!

What a fitting memorial plaque, I love the piton anchors! Dallas would be proud. Gord and I did a climb in memory of him yesterday; I can hardly believe it has been a year already.

Wow, BACK to Muir at 0400? Sounds like quite a story to put in a TR!

Yowza!

Prepare for permit shenanigans.....but I've heard the Edwards Plateau area to be quite nice. You could easily do a loop up the regular trail and come out the Toketie route. Beckey describes the high routes north of the typical corridor....

These guys were probably the best around, but unfortunately closed their doors after the death of their founder....http://www.sahale.com/ Some of the staff have continued on as these guys: http://seattlebridgebuilders.com/ Certainly not free, but they would give you the straight story and are very helpful. Sounds like a cool project!!

Here, here, I'll second that motion. All in favor of TR's in the Kids forum?

Really cool! I have often wondered about that climb.....another reason to train on the rock a bit harder I see.

Wow, that is quite a story- thanks for the link!

Was this a post from the Prince George Tourism Bureau?

Nice, Nice, Nice! This has been on my list for some time, and you helped remind me that I need to make it a priority one of these years before I get too old (how old is that anyway?). Well written, excellent photos, a fine TR added to the database.