JasonG

Oh we had whiskey, but that ran out rather quickly. It would have been hard to bring enough, considering the weather.

Trip: Asa, Agnes, Gunsight, and Sinister - Standards Date: 7/13/2011 Trip Report: "Suffer Together....SUFFER AS ONE!" Our mantra for the trip was coined after about the 4th day of unsettled weather, but I think it applied to the sunny days as well, especially hauling our heavy packs out of Agnes Creek. Tim, Steve, and I returned this past Saturday from seven days in Agnes Creek, managing to climb Asa, Agnes, Gunsight (main and north), and Sinister. We had a couple decent days hiking in, but fairly cloudy and damp weather the remainder, with one full day lost to rain/sleet/snow in camp. Thanks to excellent beta from Tom, we more or less found a fairly "easy" way into the range- camping the first night at Swamp Creek (fire!), followed by four nights at Agnes Col (cold, wet, though dry ground to camp on, and drips of water nearby), and a final night back at Swamp Creek (fire!). Our first objective on day two was an easy ridge walk to Asa peak. As advertised, the original summit paper is there from 1908, along with Austin's entry from 1947. Cool stuff. I think we were the 12th party to sign in since the first ascent. On day 3, we followed Fay, Stefan, and Erin's beta to bypass the ridge leading to Agnes by dropping off the east side of the ridge, losing 1000' and regaining the crest very near the summit via the Agnes snow finger. Later in the season this may be safe, but we were just about taken out by a barrage of rockfall partway up the gulley. Looking back at the photos it appears that the culprit were a few snow patches melting out on the steep SE face. The sound of rocks at terminal velocity is not a good one, beware. The rest of the climb was pretty true to Beckey, but the leader was glad to have rock shoes for the short "5.6" pitch. I think we were the 27th party to sign in. On day 4 we headed to Gunsight, intending the climb the SW rib route (only half of each rope team had rock shoes- probably a mistake for this great piece of granite). Instead, we opted for the easier standard gulley between the North and Main peaks, finishing both of them by short pitches of mid- fifth. The climb was made memorable by the cold temps, snow squalls, and wind- climbing with all your clothes on in July???? Day 5 was a weather day and we sat around and tried to stay warm and dry- not an easy task at the col. We huddled behind trees and taught each other knots when we weren't in the tents. I think we all realized that we aren't cut out for expedition climbing. Day 6 dawned relatively unsettled, but mostly dry. We headed over to the Chickamin with the intention of climbing the west ridge of Sinister. Passing under the north face, conditions were quite good for step kicking (it had been skied by an uber dude (EW?) a few days before). An impromptu change of plans initiated by Steve and Tim got our team set on giving the NF a shot. We only had one picket and no second tools so we shortened our ski poles (to plunge like second tools) and made do until we passed the 'shrund at mid height. After that we unroped and Steve led the charge to the summit, only about 3 hrs after leaving camp. Very cool route, too bad we were in the clouds for much of it, including the summit. After a short stay, we wandered down the west ridge in the fog, made one 30m rappel and found our way back to the Chickamin. Upon returning to camp, a fire sounded good so we packed up and headed back down to Swamp Creek for the night. It felt like a long day, although probably only took us about 11-12 hours total. We didn't see anyone on the entire trip until we came back to swamp creek. We chatted at camp with a group heading into the Gunsight area the very next day and wished them well. Unfortunately, the next day it started raining quite hard on our way back to Stehekin, so I wonder how they fared....Back at Stehekin we ran into Stefan, headed into Devore Creek for 6 days. Small world, that Stehekin. The bakery didn't disappoint either, never get tired of that place. Anyway, enough talk, pictures tell the story much better. Here's the first batch, more to follow tomorrow: Swamp Creek Camp Crossing Agnes Creek on a very ample log Mmmmmm. Brush. Glacier Gunsight Agnes 1st Pitch on Agnes It is about a 6000' drop into the West Fork of Agnes Creek below Tim's feet. Rapping steep snow near the summit of Agnes Camp Life! Sinister and Blizzard Peaks emerging from the mists Gunsight Some fine alpine granite, gunsight has. Approaching Cascadian Patagonia Sinister and Dome At the notch on Gunsight Tim gazing up to the true summit of Gunsight Sinister! The North Face is the prominent snow finger on the right, descending down from the summit. Good times! Photo by Steve Trent, tweaked by me. Agnes from Gunsight Belaying the final bit of the North Peak of Gunsight. Rapping past great rock on Gunsight Weather day, Ugh. Approaching the col to access the Chickamin, with Agnes behind Agnes! Expressing frustration for the lack of views on the summit of Sinister, I bet they'd be grand. Run away! Heading down on day 6. Needle Peak to Bonanza above Tim. He and Blake were likely the first ones to traverse the ridge between Needle and Dark Peaks. Link Agnes Creek Brush. Swamp Creek Stink Day 7 and the wheels have completely come off. Long trips are hard on the feet of softies like me Boat Life! Gear Notes: You will need most everything. Bring tat, this area doesn't see much traffic. Approach Notes: Follow Tom and Fay

Well....I had a chance. I think we might as well close 'er down.

Not everyone on the east side is happy about the wolf's comeback, these guys have a lot of support: http://nwsportsmanmag.wordpress.com/2011/06/08/twisp-family-killed-5-wolves-feds-say/ Too bad . . .I was up in Wolf Creek last week and was pretty sure I heard wolves howling at dawn. Eerie and cool at the same time.

I'm not sure of what Lowell's time was, but that seems quite fast. Nice work, esp. walking miles and miles of road at the end.

Cool area isn't it? I'm with Tim, what is that hanging off your pack? Is that the Outward Bound style?

I hope they don't start requiring bear canisters. Climbing gear is awkward enough . . .

Where does the route go in the first photo? Looks like a good early season objective!

I should add that you need to be careful of a log right at head level at ~mile 9.5. A skier impaled his forehead on it, and nearly gouged out his eye. We came on the scene on the way out and it was a little shocking. Watch out! We tried to make it less sharp, but there is still some damage that could be done to an unsuspecting party enjoying the scenery.

Trip: The Gardners - Standards Date: 6/26/2011 Trip Report: In an effort to get my feet in fighting shape, I joined the running dog in his quest to scale a certain list of high peaks in WA. After a leisurely stop at the Mazama store to hang out with friends and be tempted by the easy comforts of the lowlands (AAC Rockrest sure sounded cool), we hit the trail about 1430. Worried that the slog was going to take us way into the evening, cutting down on valuable beer, whiskey, and fire consumption- the dog set his usual blistering pace. We arrived around 1800 to find Gardner meadows melted out with plenty of firewood already cut to length (thanks hunters!). Eating, drinking and lounging by the fire commenced. A fine chap by the name of Julian (solo) joined us for after dinner refreshments and a plan was hatched to leave early the next morning for the North and Main Gardner peaks. Turns out, Julian knows some of the same folks we do and was a great addition to our peak bagging Delta Force. To make a long story shorter, we had a grand time the next day(~11 hrs, camp to summit to summit to camp to car- with some nice breaks and lots of photos). Great scenery, zero crowds, fun scrambling, and perfect conditions made this trip much better than anticipated. Sure, we never needed a rope, but it was a lot more engaging than you might expect. Give peak bagging a try sometime, you just might like it! Upper Wolf Creek: Julian headed towards North Gardner North Gardner Family of Mountain Goats breaking trail- Seriously we used their tracks and followed them almost to the summit of Main Gardner The Dog and Julian near the summit of North Gardner with the next objective behind them Sea of peaks to the south Fun scrambling en route to Gardner The dog on East Gardner. Julian and I stayed on the main summit and worked on our tans Main Garnder marker North Gardner from the main summit East to the Methow Ah, a break before the slog out. Gear Notes: Axe, Crampons, Helmet, Beer, Whiskey, flip flops Approach Notes: Wolf Creek

Holy crap Tim, keep these coming. Seriously, they are some of the best TRs in the database. In some weird way, this TR is better than hearing it first hand- must be the photos. Some really good shots in there, I can see how magical it is. It is on the list for sure . . .some day.

Seriously, Where Was This TR during the contest??!!!!! Top five on cc.com for sure . . .maybe even funnier than listening to you in person re-tell it. Maybe.

ugh. But prove us wrong! It would make for an engaging TR, I think . . ..

Otto- PM Trent, and he can email the list. I am sure you have done a few . . .

NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!!!!!!! I swear the other side is VERY repulsive, in every sense of the word . .. But you have piqued my interest- I might just have to see this other, sweeter, side of the hill. Nice work there Mr. Flyboy, you are well on your way to catching the MoatMaster! Now that he is fishing for the summer, I see you have made your move. Too bad with the interwebs, he is watching your every move. Is it over ten ascents yet?

It may be in OK shape right now, given the cool spring. But yes, it is mainly a route that is best in the winter/early spring. You certainly want cold temps and consolidated snow- similar to the conditions that are best for triple C's.

Dan is correct on this, went back and checked the Beckey guide. I was perpetuating a cc.com terminology mistake that originated years ago. Sorry! NEC and NBC from now on! Both are fun routes. I highly recommend the NEC for the next step up in difficulty. . . .just make sure you rope up crossing the 'schrund. I fell into it unroped years ago (a very large bridge collapsed underneath me), and am lucky to be typing right now.

There is the NEBC (NE Buttress Couloir) and NBC (North Buttress Couloir). The NE is the one that drops right down below the summit and has a 'schrund at its base. Typically parties veer left near the top and walk a short bit to the true summit (though some have completed it directly). The NBC is the obvious one in your photo, on the right, and it intersects the north face about 700 vf below the top. So, in your post above you are comparing the NEBC to the north face, correct? Or, did you climb two routes that shared the top bit of terrain? If so, you climbed the NBC. Sorry to makes things confusing, just trying to figure out what you climbed.

Nice Work! I didn't know it was in the paper, although you said that it hadn't been done very many times. Stay safe this summer, and keep us posted if you skip a couple trips on the boat and head into the hills up there!

So I guess I'm a little confused. I thought most folks finished the NBC by climbing the upper 700' of the North face of Colchuck (the only straightforward way to get to the summit it seems). So you guys are talking about intersecting the north face lower? Based on the map and my recollection, it didn't seem that the lower portion of the face (below where the NBC intersects it) would be steep enough to be interesting. But it is worth climbing that thousand feet or so?

Edit the post and delete "medium" from the image tag. If I remember correctly it comes after "500". I think you will need to delete a forward slash also. I think that should do it! BTW, I'm impressed with the everyone's entries- Solid Images!

Alpine: Between Torment and Forbidden, but not feeling much of either. Scenic: Three Fingers emerging from the mist. Skiing/Boarding: Descending one of the many fine lines in the Mt. Baker BC Cragging: Midway up Dreamer. Humor: As rewarding as any summit- a post-Pickets dip in Ross Lake.

Thanks guys! I finally got a chest harness this year so it isn't as much of a pain to pack the SLR as it used to be. Plus, it gives me an excuse to stop and breathe! "I'm not tired, I just have to take picture".

Trip: Big Snagtooth and Cedar Creek Shenanigans - Standard Date: 6/12/2011 Trip Report: Well, it sounded good on paper. Ski over Kanagroo col, traverse to Big Snagtooth, drop to Cedar Creek and ski to a lake at the head of one of its forks. That was to be the first day. Second day was to be a traverse of the Gardners and out via Huckleberry and Cedar Creeks. Ambitious but doable, or so we thought. Turns out that I needed a bit more conditioning to pull of the second part of it. In the words of Vonnegut, "So it goes." After a slow ramble up over Kangaroo Col and traverse over to the Big Snagtooth herself, we dumped the skis and booted up the couloir below the chockstone. Ice on some slabby rock had us using the crampons for a short step. The rope came in handy as the ice wasn't too confidence inspiring. Above that, the summit was dry. The dog, being lighter than my fat self, got the joy of doing the shoulder stand onto the summit slab. This was made exciting by the fact that he was wearing tele boots, which aren't known for their smearing ability. Thankfully, he didn't slide back into my face and was able to fix the rope so I could haul my sorry, AT boot wearing self, batman-style up to the summit. Ah, the joys of peak bagging. We took a few photos and did a couple short raps down into the gulley and back to our skis/snowboard. A quick run into the head of the west? fork of cedar creek and we realized that our plan may have had a few holes. First off, we were already tired from hauling overnight gear nearly to the summit, then we picked the wrong (north) side of the creek. The recent burn made travel much more difficult as there was less snow and lots of debris. It was all we could do to battle our way to the confluence with the main Cedar creek and crash for the night (AKA Camp Confluence). Though there was plenty of wood for a fire, we opted for an early bedtime. A slow start the next morning and we realized that day 2 wasn't going to happen. So, humbled, we crossed the creek on a wet, but sturdy, log and headed back up the correct (south) side of the creek all the way back to Kangaroo Col. A quick ski and a broken cable later, and we were back at the car drinking beer. A 1.5 day trip, that should have been a one day trip. So it goes. Here are some photos: Liberty Bell Group The Runningdog looks with longing over to Big Snagtooth On the summit with Silverstar behind The Gardners aren't looking so close, another trip. A sea of peaks to the south In the summit gulley Cedar creek fun. Back at Kanagroo Col, why do I feel this tired? Gear Notes: 37m rope. Pink Tricam, a few runners, boot crampons, ski crampons in the morning helpful, axe. Approach Notes: Kangaroo Col

I seem to remember it being a bit higher, closer to 14K. Regardless, not a good place to be stranded. Based on some observations today, it sounds like they are transitioning over to a recovery operation. Condolences to the friends and family.