JasonG

Based on Dallas's accident and death a few feet from the true summit on this route (five years ago last month), I would hesitate to say casual. Quick, perhaps, but with significant dangers lurking behind some of those blocks. But I'm probably being overly sensitive, folks have died on many routes that I otherwise wouldn't think of as dangerous. Dallas's death hit way to close to home for me though. Thanks for the TR, and I'm glad you guys had a good (and safe!) trip.

Well, this is Edmonds, not Renton. Scale expectations accordingly.

That's some proper climbing, nice!

"Snafflehound is used to describe any of various rodents that inhabit the alpine zone. Snafflehounds are notorious for gnawing on gear left at the base of an alpine climb; primarily boots because of the sodium left by the wearer's sweat, as well as backpacks to get at any food left inside. Numerous cases have also been reported of snafflehounds gnawing holes in sleeping bags while climbers slept inside them. The term may have been first popularized by Fred Beckey. The eponymous "Snafflehound Spire" is in The Bugaboos,[1] and a "Snafflehound Ledge" is on the Beckey-Davis Route of Prusik Peak in The Enchantments.[2]" Does anyone know the origin of the term? Ha! Apparently I've been wondering about this way too long.

Thanks for the video. All that was stored on your phone? How much space did it take up? I guess what I'm getting at is that I do all my planning on my home computer and am just looking for something where I can easily download Canadian and USGS map tiles for offline use to take into the field. If its Rmaps or something else, whatever. Just trying to figure out what everyone is happy with. Thanks for the info thus far, will have to check out rmaps.

Oh no! I have some friends in there on a four day trip right now.

Are the topos seamless and high resolution? That is key, at least for me.

Well, I only use a topo map when I'm in the middle of nowhere.

So how did the petro economy switch jack home values in Vancouver? I was talking about this with a friend last night who just bought a very small condo in East Van. for 400K. He and I were wondering how everyone was paying the high prices for homes- wages don't seem to be high enough to justify the crazy cost. Asian money? He said that people are going incredibly far into debt, not saving for retirement, etc. to try and keep up. Seems like a bubble if there ever was one.

Seems like Gaia and Backcountry Navigator Pro are popular, but what do you use and are you happy with it? I've been using Avenza pdf to look at USGS quads, but I think I'm ready to pay for something with more functionality.

For the major peaks/areas (Bugaboo, Snowpatch, Pigeon, South Howser, Crescent Spires) there are bolted, well-placed stations set up for 60m ropes. That wasn't the case 10 years ago, but the Bugs are now firmly on the international guiding circuit and the anchors reflect it. Bomber!

Trip: American Border Peak - Standard Date: 9/27/2015 Trip Report: American Border Peak (ABP) is hard to ignore (especially in winter) when you are driving up 542 to Heather Meadows. And even though it is firmly on the mysterious "Repulsive 69" peak bagger's list, I couldn't keep it off my very own list. That's not to say it was quite high on the list, but it was there....for years. But, it is good to have somewhat obscure peaks on your list when therunningdog has a free day to go on a trip. You'll be hard pressed to find a peak or route that he hasn't climbed. While not technically difficult (low-mid fifth?), ABP has the full range of Cascadian challenge (minus the brush) and makes for an engaging day in the hills. You'll want to go in the late season, but hopefully not so late that the talus is a verglassed mess like it was for us. Most importantly, you'll want to follow Klenke's strict orders since you won't run into anyone who can give directions. We were the first party in two years. Choss Dawgery at its very finest. Gear Notes: 60m half rope, medium rack to 2" or so. HELMET. Approach Notes: Follow Klenke: Expect a 12 hour round trip, camping at Twin Lakes the night before highly recommended.

Trip: The Bugaboos in few words, many photos - Snowpatch, WR of Pigeon, B-C, Ears Between Date: 7/29/2015 Trip Report: You already have all the beta you need for the Bugs, even if you've never been there. So I won't bore you with the details of the trip Cfire, Trent, Curtveld, Andy, and I took at the end of July. Suffice it to say that the crowds are there for a reason- even if you'll probably hunt for a parking place, fight for a campsite, be rained on, wait in line, and maybe even get struck by lightning. Thankfully, we only checked a few of those boxes. But the Bugaboos are a beautiful range, even more so than I remembered. Gear Notes: The whole kit, and then some. Don't forget the Whiskey. Approach Notes: If you want a great place to camp the night before you hike in, I'd recommend Nature's Paradise in Brisco

Way to survive Peter! And thanks for reminding me why I have this on my list for the winter or spring.

The suspense! What happened upon your return to the park and ride?

I can understand the desire to keep guns out of the hands of crazies, or those who are suicidal. Perfectly reasonable, but certainly made difficult by how common guns are in most U.S. households. What is your solution for all the guns currently out on the streets and in homes?

Nothing is impossible for a mountain guide.

Mass shootings are scary and becoming more common (at least according to the FBI stats), but the fact remains that we are safer now than we have been in decades. Stricter gun control could save lives, and is probably a good idea, but it isn't like things are spiraling out of control right now.

nevermind

My guess is the little bump on the ridge between Sperry and Vesper, but Darin will set me straight.

oh yeah!

Love it!

I probably should have read the blog post. An "ultra vest", who knew!

Are you sure that you didn't pull on any gear? You are our only hope of bringing the 5.9 A2 grade into vogue in the Cascades.

I didn't know they made sports bras for men. I can't argue with the time they produce though!