JasonG

Trip: Liberty Bell Group - Liberty Traverse Date: 6/13/2015 Trip Report: After a few years of wondering, Curt and I tackled the easy version of the Liberty traverse (Beckey rte., NF concord, NF Lexington, Chockstone on NEWS, South Arete of SEWS) a couple weekends ago in a relaxed 13 hour day from the cars. This is a really fun link up, even more so because it is quite adjustable to the ambition level of the group. We had hoped to finish on the SW buttress of SEWS, but the late hour and fatigue made the SA a lot more attractive. Even in the "light" form I think it is something like 18 guidebook pitches and 2000' of climbing, but all at the very moderate grade of 5.7 and under. Graupel showers throughout the afternoon added to the drama, but the rock never got too wet. Still, it felt like an accomplishment, and the beer at the car tasted quite good. My one bit of advice is to get an early start if you plan on beginning on the Beckey route- we narrowly beat out the hordes to start the day, though there are many other options should the Beckey rte. be jammed. The Liberty Traverse is a fine weekend warrior link up, and highly recommended! The high one, two, three, four, and five seemed like a good idea, but the photos look a bit awkward..... Gear Notes: Listen to Ian. Approach Notes: Easy as can be

2 miles? My neighbors climbed it a couple weeks ago. Trail is in great shape.

How long ago did you do Bonanza Jim? I think it has cleaned up some- I thought it was pretty solid, considering Beckey's description.

"Well you're my friend (It's what you told me) And can you see (What's inside of me) Many times We've been out drinking And many times We've shared our thoughts But did you ever, ever notice The kind of thoughts I got Well you know I have a love A love for everyone I know And you know I have a drive To live I won't let go But can you see it's opposition Comes a-rising up sometimes That it's dreadful and position Comes blacking in my mind And that I see a darkness And that I see a darkness And that I see a darkness And that I see a darkness And did you know how much I love you Is a hope that somehow you you Can save me from this darkness Well I hope that someday, buddy We have peace in our lives Together or apart Alone or with our wives That we can stop our whoring And pull the smiles inside And light it up forever And never go to sleep My best unbeaten brother This isn't all I see Oh no I see a darkness Oh no I see a darkness Oh no I see a darkness Oh no I see a darkness And did you know how much I love you Is a hope that somehow you you Can save me from this darkness"

Only in Seattle.

"The world is a vampire, sent to drain Secret destroyers, hold you up to the flames And what do I get, for my pain? Betrayed desires, and a piece of the game Even though I know - I suppose I'll show All my cool and cold - like old job Despite all my rage I am still just a rat in a cage Despite all my rage I am still just a rat in a cage Then someone will say what is lost can never be saved Despite all my rage I am still just a rat in a cage Now I'm naked, nothing but an animal"

Damn. I would like to climb sinister again, if only to see the view, but I'm not going to climb it in a day, that's for sure. Sheesh. Juan- That's a brutally long weekend, but at least you're old.

Luke- You went from the TH to the summit of Sinister in a 12 hour push?

You guys are nuts! That is a crazy long weekend trip, impressive!! Glad to hear that the Bachelor creek trail is getting some love, I was worried that it would slide into oblivion. It's been a dozen years, probably time to do the Ptarmigan again!

Getting to the start of the NR isn't the problem, it is finding the crossing to the Moraine Lake side that is much trickier. The NR notch is the most obvious and easiest looking place to access where the glacier comes close to the ridge. Such a good route! Now you are ready for the NW arete.....

One of these days I'm going to have to go out to Easy ridge on a backpacking trip, so scenic. Thanks for the report!

Geez, that is a lot of climbing in a few days. Excellent report as always Steph, glad to see you're still going full bore.

I tend to think Whitehorse is best in May or early June, and that is in a normal snow year. The snow may be soft, but you can often kick steps right up on to the summit and never touch rock. Bonus points for the wicked fast glissade right off the summit.

Wait until next spring when Lone Tree Pass is snow covered. The summit is easier to attain, and the whole trip more enjoyable.

Well said Gene.

http://www.seattletimes.com/seattle-news/army-rangers-move-in-to-retrieve-body-found-on-rainier/ Condolences to the friends and family of Mr. Bufis, terrible news. I wonder what happened and why the team unroped from him in such a crevasse riddled area?

You have even more problems than I imagined CB! Maybe you should try and exercise less so that you don't need to eat so many calories. Even if you're vegan and eat organic, that food is grown on land that used to support abundant fish and wildlife populations. We all need to go back to the hunter-gathering, barefoot way.

For some the tree removal is a big deal, for others they couldn't care less, and nobody is going to budge. But this is pretty entertaining.....

Mike's right. And I think there is something to be said for experience. If you are new to the alpine, you are going to move slow over loose exposed terrain until you get comfortable. Maybe it is fitness, but I suspect that it is a combo of inefficient gear fiddling and extra caution. Most of alpine climbing isn't really climbing (at least around here), but moving fast over rough terrain.

That's the ragged part of the edge. The good news is that if the blocks fall, they won't take out the route.

A friend of mine watched a German shepherd get disemboweled by a nan goat one time at the base of SEWS. The dog thought her kid looked tasty. Ooops.

Thanks guys! Trail is snow free all the way to the basin between Sperry and Vesper.

Trip: Vesper Peak - The Ragged Edge Date: 6/5/2015 Trip Report: If you haven't climbed Darin and Gene's excellent new route on the north face of Vesper, you really should. Good rock, varied climbing, excellent views, and a dramatic position make this feel like a lot more than a 6 pitch 5.7. Right now there is a bit of steep snow guarding the traverse (we did a running belay), and the first half of the first variation pitch is running with water (which Curt led with style), but the rest of the route has weathered the winter in fine shape. In situ bolts and pins are all solid, and there is minimal loose rock to contend with. Steve, Curt, and myself had quite a fun day out- highly recommended! Gear Notes: Follow Darin's beta. I think it took us around 10 hours car to car with a party of three, lots of breaks, and dealing withe steep snow on the approach ledge. Approach Notes: Headless Pass trail. Start hiking up the climber's path to Vesper and veer off to intersect the higher of the two notches, closer to the summit of Vesper.

Sweet, thanks for the reminder that I need to do this route. Love the photo of the Willis Wall, one of my favorite views in the state!

Peter, get your knife. What? Just do as I say. Get it! You don't have much time here. You have to do something for me. Cut me loose. One cam can't hold us all. You have to cut me loose... ...or else I'll pull everybody down. Everybody will die!