JasonG

I agree with Wayne, if you get the wedder, Goode should be good(e) to go. Early season is key with that one, at least if you want smooth sailing to get on the route without steel. The NE buttress is so cool, if that is where you are headed. There is a perfect bivy on the actual summit, which I would highly recommend.

I got my second pair of Trango Alps this year and love them. More comfortable than the last iteration and look to be similarly durable. I don't have a source for deals, they are a relatively new boot so I imagine you won't see a sale for some time. I was wondering how the Triolet and Alp could fit you similarly, my experience is it is either one or the other but not both with Scarpa and LS. Sounds like this is what you have settled on as well. I wouldn't expect 10 years out of them though. My last pair of Alps were pretty trashed when they were ready for a re-sole (~6 years). But, it probably depends on where you climb mostly. The North Cascades are pretty hard on boots and mine never survive to a re-sole.

Long shot.....but if anyone finds it, beer for you! I think it was left at the little A-frame outhouse, very close to the parking lot.

Justice Bowie is the O.G. Rugged Outdoorsman. Just don't forget his pups, Truth and Valor!

Oh, man those are some fantastic images! I will be sure to check out the full gallery. That slope on Sherman fails huge in the spring every few years and runs way down the Boulder. I will let the guys at Western (who study these things) know that it went again. It is an awesome sight to behold. From reading the full TR on your site (most excellent), sounds like you could have used one of these: http://www.patagonia.com/us/product/mens-tropic-comfort-hoody-ii?p=52123-0

If you're free, you should go with Ben!! He's as solid as they come, with a gold-plated (Smoot approved) tick list.

It's usually not the bridges you see that will get you. After falling in a hidden 'shrund unroped ~10 years ago I pretty much always rope up crossing crevassed terrain. Partially because I have dependents now, and partially because I saw (vividly) how it would be to die that way. I got a second chance, but many aren't so lucky

Did Bill survive the car?

So perfect. Amazing actually. The epitome of weekend warrior smash and grab. Love it!

The NPS doesn't like people pruning on the trail, but they haven't caught anyone that I'm aware of. They just complain loudly when they discover it. Why they refuse to maintain the Boston Basin trail is beyond me (but not surprising). Part of it was a road, and all of it was constructed and maintained for years. There is a permit system in place in the basin to limit use, and frequent ranger enforcement. Volunteer groups would gladly (and do!) maintain it. There is just no good reason to let it grow in. Perhaps everyone could let them know if you feel the same?

I love, love, love the cloud sea! One of the best things about an early start or a high bivy around these parts. Thanks for the report, that is a great area. And dogs are (always?) allowed in wilderness areas, at least in my experience. National parks are a different story, however. Did the hammock keep the rodents off you?

and the huts!

Yep, thanks for figuring it out for the rest of us! More importantly, glad you didn't get hurt on your slip on the descent.

Excellent timing! I was wondering if you stuck to the original plan, it all looked like it was coming together after all. Post up a TR if you have the time.

Unless you have a very large window (and a guide), your chances of success during that time frame are slim to none. Often we have some of our most active weather of the season during that time, and we are heading into a La Nina. Come in mid-July and hire a guide service. I suspect nearly all of them that guide Rainier will give you a great experience.

I can see I need to spend more time hiking around at night.

No marmots?

Is that an old #4 or a new one? The weight difference is pretty dramatic between the two generations of C4s, especially on the big cams.

Ha! Thanks all, but Zak is right, I need to keep my day job. He should probably keep his too. I've got a long way to go to reach the big leagues. Glad you all like the photos, we really got lucky with the weather and conditions. This was my third trip up on the Wapta and I guess what they say is right. Time to go back for the Bow-Yoho now that they have that new hut!

South Twin and the 'schrund from N. Twin :

I personally like Stuart more than any Volcano, especially this time of year. I'm not sure if anyone carries much in the way of 7.5' maps anymore. I would highly recommend Gaia or Avenza pdf apps for your mapping needs, depending on how much you want to spend or not. NW forest passes can be bought at a range of gear stores and ranger stations en route (REI in Seattle for sure), same with fuel.

As you know, you're damn lucky. When backing down, always turn around frequently and make sure there aren't strange looking areas below you, holes, etc. And, sliding while facing in with two tools is a recipe for problems regardless of whether or not there is a hole below you. That 'schrund on the S. Twin is well-known and obvious on aerial photos, guidebook photos, etc. A bit of research on the descent you had chosen should have made you wary, esp. given how fast things are melting out this year. I know I'm sounding a bit harsh, but the mountains often don't give you a second chance. Fortunately you gained some experience, without much cost, that will serve you on later climbs. Remember the lessons!

This is the stuff I almost never bring back out of the hills (i.e. I eat it first): Landjaeger Cheese Dark Chocolate (w/ nuts, caramel, sea salt, or whatever) Ramen noodles (don't judge) dried fruit Whiskey/Scotch of any type I always bring way too many bars, especially on long trips. Real food is where it is at.

Your first link is probably the best. It'd be an easy decision for me with that forecast- no go. Unless the forecast changes dramatically, I think you should plan for other objectives. I always like to read the NWS forecast discussion, here is the long term section: .LONG TERM... Models continue to show a cooler and showery period for the extended forecast period. A large closed low off the WA coast Friday shifts east across the area on Saturday. Still some differences with the precise track but overall models show quite a bit of showers over the area on Saturday...especially in the Cascades. This system exits and is replaced by a brief flat ridge on Sunday which should allow for drier conditions. The GEM is the odd model out...with the low slower to move out with showers persisting into Sunday. For now the faster GFS/ECMWF model solutions are preferred. Another system enters as early as Sunday night and lingers through next week. Models differ with the details this far out with the strength and timing of the initial front Sunday night into Monday. Thus chance POP`s still look on track for early next week. /JW http://forecast.weather.gov/product.php?site=SEW&issuedby=SEW&product=AFD&format=CI&version=1&glossary=1 You might also want to play around here if you are a weather geek like me: http://www.atmos.washington.edu/wrfrt/data/timeindep/gfsinit.d3.6hr.html