B Deleted_Beck

im sorry for your loss.. putting down my pal Buck remains, to this very day, almost 7 years later, the hardest thing, emotionally, i've ever had to will myself to do. unconditional love is hard to kill. what his name? i'll raise a glass for him tonight..

actually.. i think i do.. not a great shot- all thats visible of the route in question is the start to the overhang on the left, and the arete above it.. upper ledge, SBB

in my noob inexperience, there's absolutely no reason nor excuse for roping up on steep snow/ice without bomber protection. solo those parts, or use GOOD protection and belay. if the slope isn't steep enough to blast pro (falls not necessarily causing immediate terminal velocity down the slope) then snow pickets seem reasonable for minor OOPSY!s, but otherwise- if you can climb it, you can solo it. it's not like rock where you have nothing but gravity keeping you attached to your holds- your 'pons and axes give you the ability to be STUCK to the wall with a minimum of 3 points at any given moment, if you're really scared.. it doesn't get much better than that, and i'd really rather not have somebody else yank me off of that. i love my teammates, but no so much i care to follow them into the bergshrung/fumerol/into the void.

and here i thought somebuddy actually found mine pouch...

howdy yep.. another RB thread. that's the only crag i ever climb.. wondering if anyone has a rating/name for the route on the upper ledge of silver bullet to the left of Sundance Kid and Panama Red... i'd sort of projected it over the course of two trips out there, thinking it WAS sundance kid, .10a... kind of wondering why i couldn't get it (i'm no beast, but i should be able to send any 10a on TR with multiple tries).. i just looked in the book, and see that PRC lists it as "______________." un-named, un-rated... anybody know? -ben i did finally send this, BTW.. i'm poor at rating things, but i guess i'd call it a 10b, for the tricky hidden hold move above the overhang.

did you climb? how was it? anybody else have any beta on shasta this time o' year?

i apparently lost my tobacco (yes, tobacco) pouch about halfway down south side on hood... is black leather, has two compartments, one shaped like a pipe.. contains 6 pipe cleaners, a small black lighter and about an ounce of pipe tobacco. would be happy to pay for shipping back to me, or meet up somewhere... how about the summit? -ben bkb0000@comcast.net

PM me what kind and what route, and we can arrange getting it back to you (climb?) :-D

pearly gates was out, just a thin crust over regolith above a gaping double crevasse. we cut across the fumerol gully to the left of the hogsback and did a WCR variation. good stiff snow for front pointing and tooling, got up with only a few "ROCK!"s that went wide.. rapped the same route back down, had a blast anchoring on boulders and digging out snow bollards. good practice, great day on the mountain. definitely not ideal Hood conditions, but we sent it fine.

leather, tan, right hand only... looked like a real nice glove.. new, but had some raps on it. found at the base of silver bullet, about 20' out from the start of Bite the Bullet, among scattered leaves and twigs of the same color, as i recovered my dropped helmet.. brought it up, put it on a rock at the bottom of Bite the Bullet- and there you shall find it.

we'll be going up monday... i'll let you know i'm basically expecting early summer condition, but i havent talked to anyone who's been up recently. either way, our plan is to be up and back below the bergshund before 8ish

dude... about 8, one fair, one kinda darker skinned? i left video for breakfast cracks, saw all your ropes, and bailed.. on the way back, i ran into these two little kids playing RIGHT on the cliff.. they asked me some questions about climbing then sprinted back toward the cliff. i just shook my head and carried on.

SOLD the story of this ice axe is a long one, i will not bore you with it.. but it's basically not mine, and i can't accept less than $70 for it. so hopefully somebody needs a huge ass basic ice tool, and wants to spent $70... cash local pickup, paypal add fee, can ship parcel post for $10. :-D

wow.. not sure where i stand on that. love to see somebody stick it to the man, but the bums are what makes RB such a shithole- doesn't seem like giving them more heroin, hooker, and olde english money is a step in the right direction. we better at least see some nicer tarp tents out there. the garbage bag lean-tos are creepy.

http://www.seattle.gov/parks/park_detail.asp?ID=399 it's definitely public property. that doesn't mean you have free access to it, but unless they explicitly prohibit climbing or have some kind of blanket statement in some kind of use policy, you weren't doing anything even close to illegal. the answer is knowable, though. find out who the regulating body is for the seattle parks department- probably city council- and see if you can get a straight answer as to who has authority over what. 'cause like i said, unless there's some specific rule, that cop has no more authority to tell you to get off the tower than he does to tell you to get off a sidewalk. that'd be like some cop coming up to the castle at Rocky Butte in portland and telling everyone to stop buildering. i would have been very tempted to builder up above taser ranger and tell him, "you want me, fatboy, come get me." but we all know effective "fighting the power" seems to be. too bad i'm not anywhere near seattle, or i'd offer to go wing-man you on it.

it's rained on both the individual, isolated, independent days we had scheduled out to do beacon SE corner... fuckin bullshit. i hear it's been pretty busy, even on the weekdays, so far this season...?

there's actually a section specifically for lost and found... scroll down the forum list

how the hell did this turn into a music thread?

sounds great- cant believe ive never heard of 'em before.. could have given them a lot of business over the years. i'm not seeing a website.. how do you contact/do business with them? do they have a storefront out of their house, or is it all mail/phone order?

it's not the music- it was the attitude. the music pretty much rocked, especially coming out of the audio-hell that was the 80s.

i was like "WTF does chuck D have to do with anything?" then i realized that i'd confused house of pain with public enemy... i'm so glad the 90s are over.

not sure what the bump rule is around here- i don't think there is one.. but correct me if i'm wrong. bump- prices reduced.

i basically have to get a boombox and jam 90s white rap on it at the crag now.

i assume it's available by prescription... but i really wouldn't worry about it for shasta unless someone in your team has had problems before. HACE at 14,000' isn't unheard of, but only because of the internet. it's extremely rare.

http://www.summitpost.org/against-all-hope-life-partnership-and-loss-on-mt-shasta/626323 gotta be prepared for the things you can't control.