B Deleted_Beck

according to the edelrid website, this is not dry treated

bump

i might as well throw my hat in the ring... my buddy will be climbing the south spur on the 15th with his wife, and possibly my other buddy with his wife... I, on the other hand (or side of the mountain), want to climb the MGH. we were supposed to go last weekend, but couldn't make the weather window- so it's still a thorn in my side that needs plucking. if anyone is looking for a more technical/challenging climb, i need a partner. my plan is to hit the pull-off on Bird Creek rd just above Heartcreek lake on the afternoon of the 14th, hike up to Sunrise camp at the base of the MGH, spend a light night, and head up the route in the morning, maybe 5:30 start at the earliest. should be plenty of time to get up. if you're not familiar with this route, expect 70 degree AI climbing, and we need to expect one, possibly multiple crevasse climbs on the route. very exposed in some spots. we can move in coordinated groups up both slopes- the south spur and the MGH run up the 'tain right next to each other. i plan to stay in radio contact with Bobby's group as we ascend the MGH. doesn't really serve any technical purpose, but will be fun to track each others' progress. dont mean to mess with the flow of this thread, but if anyone up to it wants to jump over onto my side, i'll welcome the company.

Selling a rope for a bro.. it's a never used 70m Edelrid Boa 9.8mm. One year old, uncoiled, recoiled, never climbed on, kept in a rope bag since the day he won it. Free arc'teryx rope bag included. danno3369@gmail.com or 503-318-2345 - don't PM me, as it aint mine $100 + shipping or local pickup

howdy looking to ice climb on white river glacier tomorrow (fri, 10/7). this'll be my first time climbing vertical ice. i don't care if you have any vertical ice experience or not, but i do ask that you know how to competently lead belay. have boots and pons, and warm/dry clothes.. i have everything else, if you don't, including a loaner set of tools. please have a fuel economic car, and be willing to drive (i'll chip in for gas). email's best: bkb0000@comcast dot net

what makes you think i'm talking about anything BEYOND "breaking pow, heavy packs, plastic boots?"

howdy breaking through pow, heavy packs, plastic boots... ugh. what are you guys doing to condition this fall? thanks -ben

bump.. nice fleece, would love to trade for smaller.. doesn't need to be brand new, just newish

since i really don't trust these things to begin with, i'd rather not buy any more at full price... anybody happen to have some used 2'ers in serviceable condition? bkb0000@comcast dot net or PM here's cool -ben

or, if beer is his usual lunch, nailed that section in the morning. that wandering, drunk nail pattern is really common with that old oak slat platform flooring from the earlier half of the last century. i've done repairs and had to force myself to nail crooked, just to maintain the look. i don't know if its from carpet installers just wanting to tighten up the slats before rolling carpet, or if it was originally installed that way... the stuff wasn't actually ever intended to be a finished product.. at some point after the inception of modern production styles, it became desirable to have wood floors- so all the carpets came up, and sub-floor was made living space.

burp..

if you're going to run in the rain, just remember to never, ever wear a cotton shirt.

Howdy Gonna just go ahead and combine what's left here.. bkb0000@comcast dot net is probably fastest, PM here works too. --- http://mountainproject.com/v/quarks-screws-metolius-cams-rain-gear-pattagucci-fleece---wtt/107315731

just stay above the freezing level for 9 months.. you'll be fine. man.. if i was "stuck" in northern WA with no responsibilities, i really don't think i'd need any help figuring out what to do.. i could easily eat up at least a month, maybe two, in the olys, and the northern cascades could fill the rest of my time, through spring you can always hitch hike to warmer/drier climates

bump.. will trade last two cams for 60ms of super itty bitty glacier floss or hybrid crampons.. men's M softshell pants or hardshell top, as second priorities will take or pay some cash, as appropriate

no? well, anybody wanna give it a shot? sometime next week, probably emails best- bkb0000@comcast dot net

Hiking WHERE is prohibited? at the top of the walls? where the crap else would the chains go up? another utterly pointless, empty gesture. the problem is NOT that people don't know there's cliffs there... it's that they DO know there's cliffs there, and subsequently misuse them. you can't prevent people from misusing them. --- you can also count me in as somebody who will never support regulated climbing

where are you/the rope located?

nuts and the fatter lobed metolius are gone.. the rest is now also for sale (sorry, to those of who wanted to buy them earlier).. copy/paste from my MP thread... OK.. despite a lot of interest, nothing went through on the trade thread.. so i guess i'm gonna sell these and just buy the crap i need.. All are in good to very-good condition, very little placing, and almost all wear, what little there is, is rack/pack wear. Plus shipping, paypal add 3% (or send as feeless "gift"), prices are OBO. C4: SOLD $55 - #4 SOLD $50 - #3.5 SOLD $45 - #3 $40 - #2 Metolius: $40 #8 fatcam - SOLD $35 #8 fatcam with skinny lobes BD nuts: - SOLD if the price is right, i could possibly be talked out of one or two other #2s and smaller cams.. but lets see what the market value is on this stuff first

seems like westerner faces are holding up better longer in the cascades this year... any opinion on how the SE corner might be doing (specifically MGH)? how is the mountain in general for late season climbing?

AHA! I knew you sounded familiar! You're that guy who asks weird questions for advice so he can argue. http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/1003679/ http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/1019030/ and you must be the guy who seems to exist for the sole purpose of fucking up otherwise decent threads. thanks again, bra. --- consensus: there's better ways. noted. thanks for the replies, gentlemen.

i've never tried a munter on double line- i think i didn't think you COULD double rap/belay with a munter on double lines... i'm gonna have to try that

Impact is how much energy is tranferred to the anchors when tested in a drop tower. Tensile strength is how much force it takes to break it when pulled apart. The fact the the 7mm cord does not have an impact force listed suggests to me that it is not intended for holding falls. it's definitely not "intended" for holding falls (though that's really the only reason it exists).. i have no delusions about that. i've considered the rando/cord idea.. i'd have to do the 48m length, as 30m is just too short to be useful for anything, and really too short for crevasse protection as well. to avoid having a knot halfway down the rappel, i'd have to get 48m of cord, and even at 5mm, that'd put me back up to 5.5lbs. i'd get a sweet 48m rappel, but would also only get 48m of lead. if i just went with a straight up 7.5 or 8mm 60m climbing rope, i'd be at the same weight, AND i'd get the full 60m (i do realize we're talking about half rope) of lead. i appreciate the responses- this is sort of turning into one of those threads where it looks like the OP pretty much has his mind up despite everyone telling him he's an idiot.. but i am weighing all opinions.

i haven't had much interest in this mountain, but i read an old TR from mazama glacier headwall route, and it sounds like a pretty righteous day climb.. what kind of conditions can a guy expect right now on the SE corner of the mountain? how is adams for rockfall in low snow conditions? how is this route generally for rockfall? etc.. thanks

brake racks are out of the question.. just too big, bulky, and heavy. Wild Country VC Pro 2... as if i need yet another belay device.. claims to be pretty pinchy for tiny rope.. anyone used one? there's pros and negs to each system.. but i gotta tell you, the dyno cord idea is sounding better and better. the stuff is strong.. and doubled up for belaying, i'd probably even be willing to take a decent lead fall on the stuff, from what i'm reading. 7mm dyno: 60m - 4.6lbs tensile strength: 10.4kN - single strand $90 all day long Mammut 7.5 twin: (cheapest dyno climbing rope i could find) 60m - 5.02lbs impact force: 9.9kN - double $144 - on sale, reg $180.00 whats the difference between impact strength and tensile strength? obviously they're using tensile on the cordelette because it's accessory cord, not dyno climbing rope..