B Deleted_Beck

i'm 5'8, 165lbs (shuddup- it's all muscle), 31" waist... think i'd fit the bib? what brand are they? maybe i can get some info on sizing..

its pretty rare, but it's there. climb max used to carry some, but i'm not aware of any other local shops- in fact, i tried OMC, MS, NA and even a couple REIs yesterday... none stock it. i'll be ordering direct from bluewater. as to length- you're right, for general mountain travel and belaying, 40m is ideal... but i want long raps. if the stuff was available in longer lengths, i'd probably still be looking at the 6.5..

i've decided to nix out the 6.5mm... incompatibility with devices just makes that one too extreme. i really like the sound of three and a half lbs, but i think the stupid outweighs the force on that one. so i'm left with 7mm @ 4.6lbs, and 8mm @ getting back up over 5lbs. anyone who might have done this before- how huge a difference have you found betweebn a 7mm and 8mm for devices? i see guys using 7.x twins with ATCs... but it seems like this is where the leap is (and probably why most of these devices say they only go down to 8mm). i should also add that a big part of the appeal is cost- 60m of 8mm dynamic cordelette is about half the price of any 60m 8mm climbing rope. being that it's my mountain line, its going to get absolutely trashed rapping around boulders and ice threads and pixie sticks and icy bollards and such, and i fully expect to replace it with frequency.

howdy.. not sure where to put this, since there's apparently not a dedicated mountaineering sub-forum, oddly enough... for alpine mountaineering, with occasional soft belays on snow slopes but mostly for rapping... what are some thoughts on using dynamic cordelette? 6.5mm, 7mm, or 8mm... obviously the intent is to trim weight.. i can definitely trim a lot of weight. 6.5mm - 60m - 3.48lbs 7mm - 60m - 4.6lbs 8mm - 60m - 5.16lbs 10.3mm - 60m - 8.73lbs i did some screwing around with belay/rap/ascending devices... with 6mm, toothed ascenders seem to like to destroy the sheath.. 7mm not as much, and 8mm hardly at all. belay devices are obviously harder to control.. but it seems using a pinchier d-carabiner adds quite a bit of friction.. i was able to vertical rap with an ATC and a D-biner fairly controlled even with the 6mm. i haven't tried to catch a fall with it yet.. gonna have to try that tomorrow at le gym. it's not dry-treated.. so ending up with a soaking ass rope could defeat my purpose (in theory)... anybody ever tried nikwax/rope-proof on un-treated ropes? think that'd solve that issue? so... is this stupid? anyone else doing it? anything i'm missing? thanks

still no deal struck- all available

ok.. had lots of interest.. sorry if i havent gotten back to you yet.. for the benefit of all, i'm just gonna plug pics and specifics in here OK... so what i'm wanting to trade is the nut set - Colored BDs with some wear (some more than others..) but all are still perfectly serviceable, sizes 13-1 MISSING the 12 and 11, but you get an extra 8.. was missing the 1 and 2, but i pulled extras off another set.. so you get a total of 12 nuts. i'll throw in the two nut tools too (a BD and a no-name i got at D&B). Cams: Camalots: #4 #3.5 #3 x 2 #2 x 1 (gonna keep a couple 2s) Metolius: #8 x 2 #7 ALL these cams, especially the #3-4, are in really good shape, as i basically never use them. i've decided to keep all my TCUs and smaller BDs. i'll hold off on lobe closeups till somebody wants one specifically THANKS!

I hope they both understand that their lives are not their own anymore..

hah.. i saw your TR on MP. either you were super obnoxious or your partner is a total dipshit- either way, you guys should definitely not climb together anymore. X-D glad you made it down.. that sounded scary.

moved to: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/1035102#Post1035102

and not to continue the debate i requested not be continued, but rather just to help people understand why something like the Spot, specifically, might be desirable to some people: a LOT of guys don't climb (thinking of my own mountain ambition) for solitude- they climb JUST to climb. JUST to get to the top. these are the guys updating their facebook status at every rest stop up the mountain... "just reached 12,000... boy am i pooped! oops, looks like Ben's on the move again.. that was fast! next update: the SUMMIT! wish me luck." etc... probably seems silly to some of you... but silly as it may be, you cannot judge. your reasons for climbing/backpacking/hiking/whatever are NOT the ONLY reasons, and solitude seems to be, increasingly, NOT why a lot of guys go into the back country these days. stated not specifically at anyone- just offering a perspective i think i lot of people miss.

the advancement in capability is what i like about the Spot Connect... like i think has been said in this thread- if you're going to be a day late, but are otherwise OK, it's good to be able to send that to the wife/roommate/mommy/boss and avoid wasting SRT's time looking for somebody who just had his map upside down.

let us please not turn this into another beacon v. no beacon thread derailment. that topic has been done unto death so many times, and it has nothing to do with the OP.

i've done self-reliance. i'm 30- i spent the first decade of my back-country experience without ANY way to contact rescue/civilization. i'd tell somebody i was leaving, and give them a multi-day time-frame for when i might be back. fortunately, i somehow survived it all, despite a few close calls. now that i'm responsible family-man/business owner/smarter/have more money- it would be incredibly irresponsible of me to head out without any backup. i think the idea that people use their PLBs and Spot devices for splinters is grossly inaccurate. obviously some abuses have been reported, but i'd be willing to bet my next paycheck the vast majority of emergency PLB/Spot calls are for bonafied emergencies, and are, per capita of experienced enthusiast using them, very rare.

somebody might commend your purism... and if you'd presented it differently (without the elitist/extremist attitude), i'd temper my own opinion of that mindset- but i'd just call that "stupid," myself. i don't want to DIE and leave my wife and 4 boys without a husband/father because i broke my ankle egressing a blizzard 5 miles from the trailhead. can we all assume you're a free-soloist too? self-reliance.

i agree. locate the ceiling joists, and secure a 2x6 header to the ceiling with "ledger locks," long mostly thread-less shanks with FAT threads on the end- they have sheer strength and actually anchor shit into their base, rather than just screwing it together. two per joist. sheet rock is super easy to patch, if you're just talking about ledger-lock holes.. fill in with light spackle, run a damp sponge over it so you don't mess up the texture, let dry, touch up paint- totally invisible.

i don't know how much it costs, but spot connect looks pretty useful... lets you send actual typed, specific messages, rather than just pre-qued shit or generic, non-descriptive rescue requests. i have zero experience with any of this, though... there's always cell service everywhere i climb

well sounds like they're pretty much perfect for me, then. backup for alpine ice. is the problem mostly that they just dull up and/or don't cut for shit?

i did some searches, and couldn't believe i didn't find a thread on these... now i'm sort of leery about giving away a good secret... wondering about opinions on NW Alpines mystery screws...? http://nwalpine.com/hardware i'm sure i'm going to get the typical mixed bag of opinions ranging from "you saw the disclaimer- you gonna trust your life to that?" to "hell yea, i use these all the time..." with the inevitable disclaimer, from both camps: "but you just have to assess for yourself and decide what risks you're willing to take." so, for clarification- does anyone actually USE these, or at least know of them being used?

awesome. i know the feeling... can't possibly make it, don't want to continue, gonna be sick, super dehydrated.. just keep moving, you'll get there, and descent is easy. then, at some point on descent, you realize you're having fun again, and so happy you made it. good job

the lame part is that i promised my wife i'd quit when i burned through the last of my current batch.. half of the last of my current batch is in that pouch. >

wow.. busy mountain even on a late-season weekday, eh? how was the snow? pretty hard?

that'd be the one.. fuck that route.

RB is a way BETTER crag than it gets credit for. im continually shocked at the way dirt-bag climbers turn their noses up at it. i obviously dont have a whole lot to go off, but its my opinion that RB's full of very high quality climbing. great place to learn, in my opinion. and as my niggah chad said above, dont pay attention to the numbers- i disagree with some. there's .10bs out there i have no trouble with, and a 5.8 i STILL haven't sent (Robotics, on video- what the hells up with that transition from crack to flaring dihedral?).

that's awesome, man.. thanks.. i don't think it's She's Breaking Up Captain, though- that must be the crappy crack/diagonal dihedral thing to the left of the route in question. unless it's broken apart so much since the day it was developed that it's become a much more difficult route.. ?

and to tell you the truth, i really, really like having the mountain entirely to ourselves.. so well worth it to have things a little steeper and sketchier.