B Deleted_Beck

tonight

weather will have deteriorated to 40mph winds, heavy snowfall, and poor visibility by wednesday, m'fraid ironically enough, temps will be the same, though (minus WCF)

i'll be heading up tonight.. guess i'm gonna go for a solo attempt. i'll bring gear, but only take a rope and long screw up with me if'n i don't have a partner by go time. we'll see what happens when i'm standing in the crater at the base of the route, looking up! feel free to join me up until i get out from the over-night lot at about 2:30-3:00.. i'll have my phone on today until about 10:00pm, then i'll shut it off for a cat nap, check it again before i head up. 503-32seven-42four4 -ben

sweeet.. i probably watched you cross the western rim. our current job site sits with a full west face view of the mountain, and every damn day of this high pressure bliss i've been staring up at it, wishing i was there instead. excellent pics. how was wind?

EDIT: changing this to any SS route, other than DKH... based on the beta i'm getting, it gets very windy in the couloirs, and based on the forecast, it's supposed to be extremely cold and pretty windy up there anyway... i calculated a -33F in the couloir, based on estimated wind speed and factored for wind chill... i've had zero response in this route anyway, so fuck that. who wants to do a WCR variation? Original post, for Devil's Kitchen Headwall --- hola looking to do this route, but i can't get anybody to go. or at least nobody has gotten back to me, yet... whatever the case, as of right now, i have nobuddy. this'll be the most technical route i've done.. so it seems like a good mix- fast, easy approach, with a challenging finish to the top. i think i'd like to swing lead, so be a competent lead belayer and anchor builder.. i have plenty of gear, if you dont.. might be nice to have another 60m twin- i've got one that we can double up for short pitches, but full pitches would obviously be faster for this climb, or any climb: attitude is huge, with me.. i'm very chill, and if i can't climb with somebody chill, i'd just as soon solo. no room on the mountain for inflated egos, prideful refusal to climb safe, impatience, etc. i dont drink or burn.. i dont care if you do, but if you do, i'm driving -ben bkb0000@comcast.net

i called the trout lake ranger to find out what myriad of passes and permits i'd need to climb adams early this fall, and was told there were no fees to climb the mountain, and only a free wilderness pass by way of permit- in her words (the ranger i spoke with), "there are no fees to climb the mountain right now, because the mountain is out of service. we're not cleaning or stocking the bathrooms, not maintaining the trails, not around even to collect the fees if we did charge. just fill out the wilderness pass and put it in the designated slot." so this mindset obviously prevails in some places... it certainly makes sense to me.

pretty rocky peak about 12.5 miles WSW of Jefferson... 57-5800 elevation.. right next to Bachelor Mountain 44°37'17.60"N 122° 2'41.43"W thanks

howdy wondering if anybody has any old beat up pulsar picks for tooling practice.. can be utterly beat to shit, uglier the better... looking to spend $0-20 for the set. thanks -ben

Wigwam / Ultimax makes liners which are almost knee high. Thin liners plus a mid-weight sock has been my recipe for staying blister free on everything from touring for turns to 40km in a day death marches. the liners i use come up about mid-calf, but i don't ski, just hike/climb... so for my purposes/boots, they give me a nice frictionless barrier. no blisters, even on my slightly too-big plastics. no tape to roll up/fall off/bunch up. started using liners in the army... i'm sure real "liners" existed, but we used our dress socks as pre-history liners, and it solved most guys' blister problems so well that it just became the standard method. thin wool under thick wool- all sliding happens between sock layers instead of between skin and sock.

when your target market thinks $40,000 for a fixed-rope trip up a mountain is cut-rate, you don't get double-takes when you put a 2,000 dollar price tag on a tent.

have you ever tried sock liners?

newmatic does NOT require a toe-welt... does it have a plastic hoop at the toe, or just a bale?

what fastening method?

this pile of vindication grows... we homeschool

out of season pic... but from the shrund, did you go up where the line tops out?

if the northish routes are anything like the south side, wait till there's some decent fresh snowfall. everything above 9,000' was clear crusty ice 1-3" thick and gigantic chicken-heads today- two climbers ahead of us fell on ice, one arresting by Crater Rock and bailing, one on the Old Chute zinging "all the way down" to Hotrocks... he walked off, somehow, but not without shredded pants, a mashed up eye, and, i'm guessing, some reevaluation of life priorities.

bump.. only have the No. 8 metolius left for trade out of the cams.. still have a 22cm and 10cm turbo available here's the tools.. since they seem to be kind of an obscure hybrid tool that nobody remembers/knows about - straight shaft, but short, light, and mostly technical. beefy, aggressive goulotts.. hand sharpened by me two clean ice climbs ago. also still have cash available thansk -ben

ah.. then i guess ivan's a Blood. straight reppin his set.

did you guys ride bikes up there?

far from home, though... need trails close to home i can hit regularly

howdy need some places to do some good, tough trail running and pack hiking. having basically no free time to just head out and explore, i'm hoping somebody from around here has already done some of the leg work.. i've heard there's good hiking off the first gate on Rocky Point - anybody been up there? anybody been up across from the weigh station between 'poose and corn pass? anywhere else? big plusses for elevation variation... big hills would be awesome. thanks -ben

howdy need a set of good crampons for my leathers- heal welt, no toe welt... so "hybrid," "semi-auto," "semi-step-in," "newmatic," whatever you want to call them. my boots are GSB, so some GSB g14s would be OK- but they're not my preference, so not worth as much to me (no $250, for sure). looking to trade for stuff, if'n i can.. i have some metolius cams size 8, 6, 5.. some compact, gripped grivel mont blancs with changeable technical picks and simple web leashes.. also have three Turbos, size 22cm and 10cm.. would do a straight trade or trade + cash or just straight up cash.. whatever pons in good shape, modern design, good name please, with ABS plates. not interested in full strap-ons. thanks

sweet... i'm going as soon as we finish this job, if weather holds... see anyone else out there?

a buddy lost his jetboil somewhere below Lunch Counter, i think, on Oct 15. he'd be happy to meet up or pay shipping.. PM me here thanks