B Deleted_Beck

what did you guys have for clothes/boots?

i fully intend to do shasta this winter, and i fully intend to go equipped for The Day After Tomorrow. you do not want to get stuck downclimbing in 60-100mph winds with zero visibility and rime ice building up all over you.

ALL SOLD

LAME. will watch for it. i've been buying/selling a lot of gear lately, and cringe when i see dicks selling well loved shit without even knowing what they have when you ask a simple question. you know most of the time that's a crackhead with somebody's plundered kit.

there seems to be a large base of spiteful, condescending, sullen 15 year olds on this website.. sort of makes it intolerable, a lot of the time.

a lot of emphasis is put on style these days... personally, i think this question is sort of like asking, "should you seek to place in the race, or should you simply seek to finish with a nice stride?" otherwise, it's just way too personal to answer with any definity. you should be challenging yourself- so if simply reaching the top is a huge challenge, then that's all that's important. if getting to the top is NOT a challenge, then throw in some style points and MAKE it one. otherwise, you're not climbing for yourself. you're just climbing for others to see you climbing.

One person didn't decide to chop the bolts. The community has spoken, the bolts are gone. Perhaps instead of beating a dead horse on an issue that was really up to the Smith locals to decide, we should be discussing what we as a climbing community can do to help our sister climber who was injured. one dude talking to a select, small handful of locals, who are probably agreeable types to begin with, is not "the community."

A) i wouldn't swing on that damn swing if you paid me- so quit personalizing B) what makes climbers more worthy of monkey face than rope-swingers? seems to me there's a BILLION rock routes out there, and only one place to rope swing. God did not put that rock there MORE for climbers than rope swingers.

i'd say there's less risk with this rope swing than there is getting hit by someone's line from above. at least you can see the entire wall before you swing- all that's required is that you take two seconds to verify with your own eyeballs that everyone and their gear has been cleared from the wall. this was bad timing, and poor situational awareness. the fact that uncountable people have swung from the swing before this in the several years it's been up is proof enough of the rarity of problems.

if he was a park ranger, it would have been a legitimate exercise of control. a freaking lame one, but park rangers can chop bolts and be asses and fun spoilers all they want. as it was, it was just some dude assuming authority over the rest of us. i DONT know ian, but i've got a dollar that says his primary motive was self-gratification. the other reasons were just rationalizations. you're not smarter or wiser than the rest of mankind, ian. dont presume to make decisions for us all.

there's a piece of paper tied to a tree above silver bullet that indicates the writer found a single climbing shoe, and left a WA phone number. i meant to write it down, but i did not- so if you lost your shoe, go look at the paper for the number. heh...

why? ETA - apparently you're a ranger at the park.. disregard.

sometimes.. depends on how much caffeine i've had.

i've had some small luck cleaning up the contacts on powertool triggers when a trigger replacement was impractical or impossible. they get rusty and jacked up after a while.. a steel bristle brush or some 200+ grit sandpaper can bring them back to life.

edit!

figured i'd edit this thing to be a standing invitation for rocky butte climbing. i have been putting together a guidebook for the place, and have a decent book with almost all the routes on the major walls, and still collecting beta on others.. but should have plenty to keep us busy for a day, especially if you're not that familiar with the place. i'm a sport/TR climber, but i'm down for learning some trad, or belaying your trad climbs. i'm a pretty solid 5.8-.9 on toprope, solid .7 on sport lead, and am still pretty new to real rock, so am still in the midst of rapidly getting better. but just because i can't yet climb a 10c doesn't mean i can't belay one. email or text me if you want to try to meet down there.. i'm self-employed, so i write my own schedule, and have FAIRLY flexible hours. i also go down there and solo all by my lonesome sometimes, so if you see a guy with a jack-o-lantern on his head and a Glock 17 on his thigh, feel free to wave me down. i'm friendly. -ben bkb0000@comcast.net 503-327-fourtwofourfour

what exactly do you have in mind (why specifically looking for parents)? we have 4 boys; 1, 3, 5 and 7... i've been slowly trying to get mine wife into climbing- she wants to, but the kids get in the way of having any kind of life aside from 24/hr parenting.

draws are not equivalent to KFC buckets and Big Mac wrappers... they're worth money. and especially when most climbers have a hard enough time scraping and saving to buy their gear, it's bullshit to just walk off with it- whether left there intentionally or not, and whether its a lot or a little. if a bigmac wrapper is chillin in the street against the curb, you pick it up and toss it. if a porche is chillin in the street against the curb, you toss it? hell no- if you're taking it for other reasons. you're depriving the rightful owner of it to convert for personal use. that's the definition of theft. so when you snag draws, obviously deliberately left somewhere, you're taking them with the intent to deprive the rightful owner and to convert to personal use- you HAVE committed theft, regardless of how you try to justify it to yourself. people shouldnt leave their draws all over the place, but they do. people shouldn't jack other peoples' shit, but they do. so take both into consideration. my noob 2 cents.

SOLD howdy wild country friends.. i think they're an older design, but unused. no bite marks on the teeth, webbing's like new i need other things more than i need three bigass cams, so i'd like to trade for more baseline sport/trad gear... i need as many quickdraws as i can get my hands on, also need nut sets and multiple mid-range sizes, could use a bigger helmet (currently have a petzl size 1 that BARELY fits on ma dome), and am also sort of looking for a comfortable bigwall or even industrial harness with two belay loops, and rated side/accessory loops- im obviously willing to impart some additional cash, depending, for a good harness. im a medium man. gear must be in GOOD shape, preferably newish. but mostly really need quickdraws. whatever the case, let me know what you got. can get cash involved too, you or me. thanks emails best- bkb0000@comcast.net

depends on the employer, and the industry. rope-access companies are often all of two or three guys strong, and rig ALL their own shit. you can't hang on the above... that's a two-leash fall arrestor, not a cowstail. different concept.

i personally wouldnt drag this clattering and snagging along on a sport route.. that's not what it's for. i'm just wondering, for those of you who do actually use cowstails at work or play, why the figure 8 seems to be the knot everyone uses. and i'm glad to see a couple guys seem to agree that it's not the knot.

great for JUST fall protection... but cowstails are also for hanging. there are some manufactured cowstails out there, but they're not always what a guy needs. making your own lets you make the tails as long or short as you need, and lets you put whatever ends on you want without extra/wasted gear.

Is this for ice tool tethers or an anchor system? it's an individual tether system... lots of different uses.. i think cavers "invented" the cowstail for traversing fixed/knotty lines, but use has expanded into rescue, rope-access, aiding, etc.. anywhere having quick, ready tethering outweighs the extra bulk and weight.

but if your attitude is "the loops wont fail," whats the point of using the 4-knot method to begin with? might as well go back to 3- less weight, less bulk.