B Deleted_Beck

a shovel is worthless without a beacon, probe, and a strong working knowledge of how to use them. I have no desire to get into one of these classic CC STFUSN arguments, but I'm gonna have to disagree, even as a stupid noob. A shovel will be useless without the other two after a big avalanche and/or deep burial, but most avalanches, especially on the south side of Hood, are not big, and burials are generally partial/shallow and not far from the last known position. Also, avalanches aside, shovels should be considered mandatory for digging guys out of tree wells (if applicable), moats, and for digging snow-graves. IF you're going to take the risk, without paid Avy training and/or beacon/probe, a shovel should still be considered mandatory. And that's my final word on the topic. :-D -Ben

www.NWAC.us is a good resource, but just a resource, not a Genie. I'm TRYING to get up tonight, but my clutch went out and I'm not sure if I'm gonna have 'er all put back together in time to go climb. My noob opinion of current conditions: Mostly stable, some storm and wind slab hazard, so stay on windward slopes. Take no chances, and if climbing with a partner, cross questionable terrain one at a time. Shovels a must, probes and beacons not a bad idea. Start early, get down early, to avoid late morning softening snow. Stay safe..

I know I've talked to a few guys about climbing this route before... Don't be insulted if I didn't call you, just call me. I've actually got a pretty good list of phone numbers of climbers I've never actually met, and keep poor track of who's for what.

Ben, one could say that about anyone who starts at Timberline Lodge too! There are no rules in climbing, just degrees of good or bad form. I like I tried to express to the OP, I'm NOT dogging on him hard, just flicking a little motivational shit.

Howdy You guessed it... I still want to climb this route, and I'm sure it's in, with all this snow and ice, by now. When I say I'm "sure," I really just mean "hopeful," though... Anyway, it's pretty incredible how the mountain has solidified in 24 hours... I just checked the avy report, and Hood went from ENTIRELY BLACK (which I'd never seen before) to almost entirely yellow with some orange at higher alts, and a forecast for continued improvement till the next system rolls in on Sunday. So maybe even green by Friday? Dare we hope. Please be a strong climber, with multi-pitch rope handling proficiency. PM here, or call me at 503-410-4090 -Ben

I probably should learn.. I do have a whole bunch of buy-one-get-one lift ticket coupons from Shell.

I'm not sure. I have a bike, but the wife says it's for pavement... I'd thought it was more versatile than that, but I'm not sure I've ever actually made physical contact with it, let alone ridden it or studied it. Bike approach to something happenin'?

Probably wouldn't go over well with the wife.

Thanks, PCG.. I'm thinking about doing a Lil Baldy/Silver Star dub traverse hike this weekend, if'n Hood is gonna be too unstable. Looks like a pretty scenic little line, for what it is. Alas, gentlemen... I don't ski.

Great pics.. Most guys are depleted, dehydrated, soaked with sweat and chilled, and would summarize the feeling as pretty much "exhausted" by the time they get off the resort and onto the raw, ungroomed glacier at 8,500'. You were warm and rested and bushy-tailed at 8,500'. It felt like cheating because it most definitely was. Don't take this as huge criticism or animosity, which it probably reads like, given the typical response of venomous contempt you can expect to find on the internets... I'm simply setting the stage for my POINT, if I'd ever get around to making it: You've stood at the top, but you still haven't climbed Mount Hood. So get back up there and finish the job! -Ben

Howdy I know these "what should I climb?" threads are lazy, but I'm looking for recommendations for alpine climbs that are reasonable during this period of typical NW Oregon winter storm system pattern... I know there's a bunch of great peaks up in Washington that might be fairly avy safe, low enough elevation that they're not death traps for weather, and still enjoyable and challenging to climb, but being a working father, and not made of money, I simply do not have the time or money to drive for 4-6 hours and get on a 4-6+ hour approach. During this latest cold/low elevation snow, I wanted to get on Saddle Mountain (very close to home in Saint Helens, Oregon), explore some off-trail route possibilities. My partner bailed 2 hours before we were supposed to go on Saturday (cold and snowy), weather was supposed to be WET today, and I have no idea of that would have fulfilled my craving for alpine adventure or if it would have just turned into a cold, wet mudfest even if we'd been able to go Saturday.. But that's really my hope- To find a mountain or three, here in the NW quadrant of Oregon, covered in some form of frozen water (dare I hope for some ice?), requiring technical gear and ability to reach the top, that's low enough to climb in shitty weather, and that will hopefully not avalanche all over my game plan... does NOT have to be a particularly high regarded climb, just anything that'll get my HR up till Hood is stable enough to climb again. Maybe a long 4th or multi-pitch low 5th class route, frozen water or not? Any suggestions? Thanks -Ben

Think the MH jacket is still waterproof? How beat up is it? Thanks -Ben

Thanks.. answered the question perfectly. More specifically, however, I'm wondering about climbing area access roads- seasonally closed state roads, gated BLM roads, whether or not certain roads are plowed, etc... There probably is nothing that comprehensive out there... tripcheck.com will be useful for other stuff, though.

Howdy Anyone happen to know of an online resource for checking road access, possibly conditions, in Oregon? Thanks -Ben

I'm sure all modern carabiners are forged to prevent that.

"Some of the greatest alpinists in the world got their start on this god forsaken stash of granite. The reason why is mathematically simple. By latitude and longitude, QQ is somewhere around 42,-71. If you were to follow the longitudinal line, starting from QQ, all the way to the exact opposite side of the world, you'd roughly reach the Karakorums, home of K2, at roughly 36, 76. If you spent your early years climbing at QQ, you'd want to get as far away as possible too." Excellent.

Howdy I've got 12+ years general carpentry and roofing experience, and am currently (but not for much longer- going back to the Man, soon) independently licensed general contractor. I've typed out this post a few times, and it always ends up a mile long and I "x" out before posting... so THIS time, I'm just gonna say: I'm looking to trade some professional labor for GOOD quality mountain gear. If you need something done, and have size M good-name clothes, light mountain tent, alpine tools/gear, etc... PM me, maybe we can work something out. -Ben

Some beta- my buddy attempted DKH (big chute, AKA Variation 1) 2 days ago and said the route was ice-spotted dirt... so that'uns probably not gonna be "in" for a while yet. You've probably seen the TRs on Pearly... currently a fairly respectable route. Good luck. be safe. Even if a window did appear to pop up in the middle of this week, I don't think I'd personally chance it.. but it'd probably be a lot more tempting if I was staying at the lodge. ;-)

You've put it in the right place, Ben, but exactly which mod did you email? There are three mods on the Counseling Corner forum (JayB, minx, and OW) and all three of them have posted elsewhere on the board within the past 36 hours or less, so they should be seeing your email soon. Off White

I emailed a moderator, but he's apparently not been on for a while.. I don't know where else to put this.... Can I change my user name? I'd like to change it to "Ben B." if so.. Thanks, -Ben

Sounds awesome, and I'd totally go, if it wasn't $80 in gas an 3 hours away. So badly wish Oregon had rad little ranges like that.

You guys should check the weather- looking pretty intense, this weekend. JW - really any technical tool will do just fine to get up that step. It's not hard, as straight up ice climbing goes, and a guy should really be physically capable of getting up with pretty much anything. But to really stick well, enjoy yourself, and help limit your odds of injury or death, technical tools are highly recommended. Anything with a compact shaft and a concave- rather than convex- pick.

I think Water went up the Old Chute, and I know his partners descended it. I descended the Mazama Chute (same area) and conditions were fine, even super late in the day. Its been icy at the top of the chutes the last couple times I've been through this season - so bonus or terror, depending on how much you like/hate ice.

The variations look decent, as far as I've been able to tell from the crater floor- I haven't stuck tool in any of them yet. Variation 1, I believe it's most commonly referred to, the one I want to do (first, at least), is the only one I haven't yet gotten any kind of view of, since you'd have to go all the way over to it to see, and the last couple times I've been up, I've just plain forgotten. But it sounds like you and me both need to get up that thing, ASAP..

What boot/pon combo were you using? No ankle strap??