B Deleted_Beck

It's not that we've any problem with the route- it's just that every time I go up with the intent of climbing it, something else kicks us off the mountain- partner bails/fails, avy hazard, blizard, crotch deep pow, etc. I'll probably just solo it.. What I'd really like to do is take a tent up, pitch next to Crater Rock at the back end of the Hogsback, and spend a 2, 3 days climbing all the south side routes. Rested, you could probably knock out 3 routes a day without straining.. would be hella.

And with all the buy-one-get-one lift ticket coupons I have, that are probably expiring where they sit above my truck visor, I'm an idiot for not... but I just haven't gotten into the snowsports yet

My buddy lost his jetboil and my MSR 24" picket somewhere on the upper section of Palmer, over by the lift towers Probably won't turn up till August.... Thanks

You could always "solo" Hood. A solo climb of Hood's south side on a weekend in June means climbing by yourself... with people ahead of you, behind you, to your left, right, and all 4 diagonals. Many of them also "soloing." It's a good backup plan, in case you can't find a partner ahead of time.

But you still need a hole to hitch webbing.. you could girth hitch the grip somewhere, but it wouldn't be very secure

What were you trying to climb? I keep hoping things will firm up or I'll find some ice somewhere... This'll be my fourth attempt in 3 weeks... met with blowing whiteout, high avalanche hazard, 3 feet soft rime to dry rock, and crotch deep powder everywhere, I haven't had much luck either..

Howdy It's me again... Lookin' to do something interesting. I'd really like to get on some ice, but something otherwise exposed and committed and challenging will suffice. My thoughts: Devil's Kitchen Headwall - first variation (if you want a guaranteed failed summit bid, attempt this route with me) Wy'East - Face variation Reid - Long variation Nordwand - either gully What else is there? It's a small mountain... Thinking about Friday-ish... all weather dependent My internet access is limited at best, this week.. phone/text is mo' better - 503-41zero-4zero9zero -Ben

What dia cord is that? Looks thicker than I was thinking..

I drilled a hole through the hook inside the metal hole of the tool without touching the metal of the tools at all and threaded a bit of chord through the hole and into a loop. Clipped the umbilical to the loops. Seems to work ok so far. Hmm.. I shall have to try this- thanks!

I've never been to Cold Creek TH, but the drive up from Trout Lake to Bird Lake TH took us about an hour and a half in October, in muddy, 4x4 terrain.. I'd definitely plan to have a vehicle- rent or ride with your partner.

Hay... I have the same question! Best pics I have of them... the old Vipers w/ pinky hooks, if'n you can't ID them. The pinky hook eats up the entire spike hole, precluding the addition of an umbilical. So basically, I have to go umbilicaless if I want to go leashless, which is sort of retarded.

Is that the current record? Did they happen to state best time from lot to summit only? I missed the show.. was chugging up Hwy30 instead..

Until I get a job (and possibly after, if I can score a gig with flexi hours), I'm generally packed and ready to go. If time comes around and you've got an interesting route in mind and nobody to do it with, drop me a line or message on facebook... Benjamin Beckerich 503-410-4zero9zero I don't really care to make plans way in advance... doesn't ever seem to work out.

We dug a pit at about 9,000 on our way up to I-Rock for attempt No. 2 for thew week on the day before, 3/23, and got 5 fractures in three pats from the wrist. Was up again on the 25th for attempt No. 4 or 5 on DKH and got booted right off the mountain by sustained 40mph out of the North. On our second trip up to the top of Palmer for the day, the weather broke long enough for me to realize we were right smack in the middle of a giant lenticular... then it closed up again and started pummeling us with yet more snow/wind Not a great weekend on the mountain.

If you're handy and have an angle grinder with a couple quality cutoff wheels, you should be able to grind one out of a piece of thick sheet metal, or cut down your dad's handsaw. REI carries a snowsaw for like $25, though... use your dividend, dude.

Where's the TR??

PM'd a couple days ago... anybody else get anything back from this dewd?

Got some ice bouldering in... not the awesome MI climb we were hoping for... WHAT was I climbing, you ask? Shh.

When I say "fucked up," we still climbed. We didn't get on the Rock, but only because my partner's crampons wouldn't fit his rental boots, and we didn't realize we could have traded (mine would have fit on his boots and vice versa) till about 8,500', and he'd left the 'pons in the car. Why carry 5lbs of useless metal? The report I read called for scattered snow showers and mostly sunny skies. I totally expected periods of white-out... but I did NOT expect 50-200m visibility ALL DAY. The snow was constant, not scattered... it wasn't heavy all day, but it was heavy for hours at a time. But we did voluntarily stay on the mountain through it all, and would have done I-Rock still, if'n we'd had two sets of crampons. The wands we brought would have been essential... straying farther than 100m from the lift was dangerous- EXTREMELY disorienting not being able to see anything but white, nor even distinguish the ground from the air.

The report isn't to be trusted, at the moment... it was pretty fucked up on the mountain today. Not saying don't go, but make sure you're totally prepared for whiteout and heavy snow.

Word. I was just adding commentary.

Gonna be cold as a mufucker, but it shouldn't be too bad at 9,500'. Monday was looking good too, last time I checked, but then my wife reminded me that I'm supposed to be taking my 1,000 year old grandmother to Spirit Mountain on Monday. Wrong mountain. Wait and wait and wait and wait for good weather, and it happens during a once-a-year event that I cannot bail on.

Heading up for IRock tonight... anybody else gonna be on the 'tain?

Well, that ittybitty wind winder seems to have slammed shut. Recurring theme, in the ladder days of this odd winter. Heavy snow and whiteout don't bug me, but forecast 35mph+ winds at 9,000' is sort of begging for misery.. If the wind dies off, and my schedule hasn't filled up, I'm still totally down, through Friday. So if you're interested, let's communicate, and watch the weather together.

Yeah. OlegV is in the climbing retirement since. And no more "victims" for the Eliot HW are to be found... I haven't found a single TR from the route on this board, at least not that's listed as Eliot Glacier Headwall or any variation of the phrase. Or anywhere else on the world wide google, for that matter.