B Deleted_Beck

i'll believe it when i see it

man.. all i get is emails from guys who CANT make it... not doggin on you guys, just commenting on the irony. i'm sort of flexible on this, this weekend.. might be able to go tomorrow too, or possibly sunday..

i'll go check it out with you bring thy ice tools

bump - edited above post to reflect my desire to do this tomorrow can meet you in p-town and carpool in your fuel-economic vehicle... my truck gets 9mpg, so anything better than that is "fuel-economic" to me.. X-D forecast calls for "slight chance of rain up to .06"" tomorrow at the summit with a high of 36 and breezy gusts to 35mph. be dressed accordingly..

ever seen this? http://climbingweather.com/Washington/Mount-Adams

i might as well throw my hat in the ring... my buddy will be climbing the south spur on the 15th with his wife, and possibly my other buddy with his wife... I, on the other hand (or side of the mountain), want to climb the MGH. we were supposed to go last weekend, but couldn't make the weather window- so it's still a thorn in my side that needs plucking. if anyone is looking for a more technical/challenging climb, i need a partner. my plan is to hit the pull-off on Bird Creek rd just above Heartcreek lake on the afternoon of the 14th, hike up to Sunrise camp at the base of the MGH, spend a light night, and head up the route in the morning, maybe 5:30 start at the earliest. should be plenty of time to get up. if you're not familiar with this route, expect 70 degree AI climbing, and we need to expect one, possibly multiple crevasse climbs on the route. very exposed in some spots. we can move in coordinated groups up both slopes- the south spur and the MGH run up the 'tain right next to each other. i plan to stay in radio contact with Bobby's group as we ascend the MGH. doesn't really serve any technical purpose, but will be fun to track each others' progress. dont mean to mess with the flow of this thread, but if anyone up to it wants to jump over onto my side, i'll welcome the company.

howdy looking to ice climb on white river glacier tomorrow (fri, 10/7). this'll be my first time climbing vertical ice. i don't care if you have any vertical ice experience or not, but i do ask that you know how to competently lead belay. have boots and pons, and warm/dry clothes.. i have everything else, if you don't, including a loaner set of tools. please have a fuel economic car, and be willing to drive (i'll chip in for gas). email's best: bkb0000@comcast dot net

what makes you think i'm talking about anything BEYOND "breaking pow, heavy packs, plastic boots?"

howdy breaking through pow, heavy packs, plastic boots... ugh. what are you guys doing to condition this fall? thanks -ben

if you're going to run in the rain, just remember to never, ever wear a cotton shirt.

just stay above the freezing level for 9 months.. you'll be fine. man.. if i was "stuck" in northern WA with no responsibilities, i really don't think i'd need any help figuring out what to do.. i could easily eat up at least a month, maybe two, in the olys, and the northern cascades could fill the rest of my time, through spring you can always hitch hike to warmer/drier climates

no? well, anybody wanna give it a shot? sometime next week, probably emails best- bkb0000@comcast dot net

Hiking WHERE is prohibited? at the top of the walls? where the crap else would the chains go up? another utterly pointless, empty gesture. the problem is NOT that people don't know there's cliffs there... it's that they DO know there's cliffs there, and subsequently misuse them. you can't prevent people from misusing them. --- you can also count me in as somebody who will never support regulated climbing

seems like westerner faces are holding up better longer in the cascades this year... any opinion on how the SE corner might be doing (specifically MGH)? how is the mountain in general for late season climbing?

AHA! I knew you sounded familiar! You're that guy who asks weird questions for advice so he can argue. http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/1003679/ http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/1019030/ and you must be the guy who seems to exist for the sole purpose of fucking up otherwise decent threads. thanks again, bra. --- consensus: there's better ways. noted. thanks for the replies, gentlemen.

i've never tried a munter on double line- i think i didn't think you COULD double rap/belay with a munter on double lines... i'm gonna have to try that

Impact is how much energy is tranferred to the anchors when tested in a drop tower. Tensile strength is how much force it takes to break it when pulled apart. The fact the the 7mm cord does not have an impact force listed suggests to me that it is not intended for holding falls. it's definitely not "intended" for holding falls (though that's really the only reason it exists).. i have no delusions about that. i've considered the rando/cord idea.. i'd have to do the 48m length, as 30m is just too short to be useful for anything, and really too short for crevasse protection as well. to avoid having a knot halfway down the rappel, i'd have to get 48m of cord, and even at 5mm, that'd put me back up to 5.5lbs. i'd get a sweet 48m rappel, but would also only get 48m of lead. if i just went with a straight up 7.5 or 8mm 60m climbing rope, i'd be at the same weight, AND i'd get the full 60m (i do realize we're talking about half rope) of lead. i appreciate the responses- this is sort of turning into one of those threads where it looks like the OP pretty much has his mind up despite everyone telling him he's an idiot.. but i am weighing all opinions.

i haven't had much interest in this mountain, but i read an old TR from mazama glacier headwall route, and it sounds like a pretty righteous day climb.. what kind of conditions can a guy expect right now on the SE corner of the mountain? how is adams for rockfall in low snow conditions? how is this route generally for rockfall? etc.. thanks

brake racks are out of the question.. just too big, bulky, and heavy. Wild Country VC Pro 2... as if i need yet another belay device.. claims to be pretty pinchy for tiny rope.. anyone used one? there's pros and negs to each system.. but i gotta tell you, the dyno cord idea is sounding better and better. the stuff is strong.. and doubled up for belaying, i'd probably even be willing to take a decent lead fall on the stuff, from what i'm reading. 7mm dyno: 60m - 4.6lbs tensile strength: 10.4kN - single strand $90 all day long Mammut 7.5 twin: (cheapest dyno climbing rope i could find) 60m - 5.02lbs impact force: 9.9kN - double $144 - on sale, reg $180.00 whats the difference between impact strength and tensile strength? obviously they're using tensile on the cordelette because it's accessory cord, not dyno climbing rope..

its pretty rare, but it's there. climb max used to carry some, but i'm not aware of any other local shops- in fact, i tried OMC, MS, NA and even a couple REIs yesterday... none stock it. i'll be ordering direct from bluewater. as to length- you're right, for general mountain travel and belaying, 40m is ideal... but i want long raps. if the stuff was available in longer lengths, i'd probably still be looking at the 6.5..

i've decided to nix out the 6.5mm... incompatibility with devices just makes that one too extreme. i really like the sound of three and a half lbs, but i think the stupid outweighs the force on that one. so i'm left with 7mm @ 4.6lbs, and 8mm @ getting back up over 5lbs. anyone who might have done this before- how huge a difference have you found betweebn a 7mm and 8mm for devices? i see guys using 7.x twins with ATCs... but it seems like this is where the leap is (and probably why most of these devices say they only go down to 8mm). i should also add that a big part of the appeal is cost- 60m of 8mm dynamic cordelette is about half the price of any 60m 8mm climbing rope. being that it's my mountain line, its going to get absolutely trashed rapping around boulders and ice threads and pixie sticks and icy bollards and such, and i fully expect to replace it with frequency.

howdy.. not sure where to put this, since there's apparently not a dedicated mountaineering sub-forum, oddly enough... for alpine mountaineering, with occasional soft belays on snow slopes but mostly for rapping... what are some thoughts on using dynamic cordelette? 6.5mm, 7mm, or 8mm... obviously the intent is to trim weight.. i can definitely trim a lot of weight. 6.5mm - 60m - 3.48lbs 7mm - 60m - 4.6lbs 8mm - 60m - 5.16lbs 10.3mm - 60m - 8.73lbs i did some screwing around with belay/rap/ascending devices... with 6mm, toothed ascenders seem to like to destroy the sheath.. 7mm not as much, and 8mm hardly at all. belay devices are obviously harder to control.. but it seems using a pinchier d-carabiner adds quite a bit of friction.. i was able to vertical rap with an ATC and a D-biner fairly controlled even with the 6mm. i haven't tried to catch a fall with it yet.. gonna have to try that tomorrow at le gym. it's not dry-treated.. so ending up with a soaking ass rope could defeat my purpose (in theory)... anybody ever tried nikwax/rope-proof on un-treated ropes? think that'd solve that issue? so... is this stupid? anyone else doing it? anything i'm missing? thanks

I hope they both understand that their lives are not their own anymore..

hah.. i saw your TR on MP. either you were super obnoxious or your partner is a total dipshit- either way, you guys should definitely not climb together anymore. X-D glad you made it down.. that sounded scary.

and not to continue the debate i requested not be continued, but rather just to help people understand why something like the Spot, specifically, might be desirable to some people: a LOT of guys don't climb (thinking of my own mountain ambition) for solitude- they climb JUST to climb. JUST to get to the top. these are the guys updating their facebook status at every rest stop up the mountain... "just reached 12,000... boy am i pooped! oops, looks like Ben's on the move again.. that was fast! next update: the SUMMIT! wish me luck." etc... probably seems silly to some of you... but silly as it may be, you cannot judge. your reasons for climbing/backpacking/hiking/whatever are NOT the ONLY reasons, and solitude seems to be, increasingly, NOT why a lot of guys go into the back country these days. stated not specifically at anyone- just offering a perspective i think i lot of people miss.