sdizzle25

Usual partners are scattered from china to sweden, anyone interested in trying to take advantage of this cold weather? Thinking of WA areas such as Leavenworth, Banks whatever. Definitely open to suggestions. Lead WI4 when conditions are good, full rack. PM for details. Spencer

That was what we where hoping for! Instead we found it steep (some sections ~60 degrees) and completely wind loaded getting blasted by the early afternoon sun. We had to solidly down climb about ~1,500 ft of the damn thing before we could walk/glissade. All in all it was doable, but definitely the least safe part of our day. That being said, the ski out to the Tilly Jane TH is much more enjoyable than the south side will ever be, even if you spend half of it on your ass like I did.

i would say go for the first winter (conditions?) ascent of the elephants perch

yesterday around 2 o'clock

I was cruising through the gorge on the way back from a job interview with me trousers in full megamid mode at just how amazing the gorge would be if the was 20 degrees colder all winter. Hero ice everywhere. Dont know what this is called but i could tell you how to get there. As my approach was bushwacking in my one suit i limited the frozen mud groveling to lower 4th class. This guy appeared to be mainly the shitty globby shit WI2 you can bash stairs into but probably wont get any screws that could hold much, though its certainly downclimable if you are desperate, which we are because we are trying to ice climb in the gorge. ps. all the spray freezes on the approach pebbles, prompting the proudest standing glissade of my life as my dress shoes shot down the slope. I also have some photos i could email of the other significant flow that looks like it might touch from the road, but does not. For some reason CC wont let me upload because the file is too big, which is strange because my camera sucks....

PM on 2&3 cams

In mid winter cold snaps you can find piddly climbs on north facing rock bands, usually in the foothills occupied by commercial logging. approaches are adventurous (aka long and bushwhacky), but in my limited experience there is ice out there, primarily for character building instead of climbing.

Looking to get out for some fitness on north sister, anyone been up there lately? what are the conditions like high up?-i.e. terrible traverse, bowling alley etc.

I guess to answer your question instead of spray you down with my life story, most normal falls seem to fall under or well under 5. " real bad" falls can get to 6-7ish. factor 2 falls can get up to just below 10 kn, in which case you are in a world of shit on several different levels

Ive always wondered this, perhaps a side effect of being more of a college student than a climber. Found this one, have seen others: http://junkfunnel.com/fallforce/ A quick plug in says you will be good with your 6 kn piece, and computers know everthing about rock climbing Obviously the number of variables are huge, especially when most of your gear is going to break above its "rating". I have also heard that your femurs are only rated to about 8 Kn or something. Even if you factor 2 your entire 60 you will be hard pressed to blow your c4/reasonable stopper in a perfect placement in perfect rock. And then there is always the major caveat that the rock will probably break before before your piece, which, living in Oregon, is always the main issue for me.

ahh the Reid. I am pretty sure if you had 10 strong climbers try it you would get 10 different routes. good fun though.

single speed, not fixed gear. fixed gear= coffee shop, pbr, american spirits. Single Speed MTB= huge, hairy swingers

getting rid of shoes that dont work for me, taking up too much space in my shoe bucket! 5.10 Galileos plenty of life left in them size 9/ 42 Euro-$35 shipped CONUS Anasazis-older model, could take a resole. Size 9.5/42.5 Euro $25 shipped CONUS

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when you stand on the hogsback the pearly gates are on your right, through a pretty obvious passage between gendarmes. The Old Chute is on your left up a broad slope that gains the summit ridge. It is pretty obvious once you get up there, just follow the path of least resistance.

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Mountain Hardwear Gloves, Medium, Good condition, gauntlets, idiot cords, conduit membrane. Insulated gloves, but no liner included (could easily use with lightweight gripper gloves). $30 shipped CONUS 5.10 Galileos-Mens 9 (42) good condition, sole is in good shape, plenty of life left, crush that Proj brah! $45 shipped CONUS 5.10 Anasazi, toe is starting to split, 9 1/2 (42 1/2) $30 shipped CONUS

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AND CURSE THOSE BIRDS ON ANGELS LANDING

Spent my first time climbing in the canyon that same week. Amount of 5.10 free climbing to be done there is truly overwhelming, and accessible to those of only moderate testicular fortitude.

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+1 for NWAlpine. Think of it this way, you will save at least $50 (or way more if you go with the Mountain Hardwear ski pants) and get a product (actually designed for climbing too!) that performs better, plus you get mountain karma because NWA is manufactured in the US. Karma goes a long way climbing giant eroding piles of doggy doo, just saying.

B-Ump!

Mens large Mammut Ultimate soft shell for sale, hooded. Good condition, $100. MSRP $279 PM or contact (2oh 8) 2eight3 54 7 five