sdizzle25

bd nutrinos, hotwires, Ozs, WC orbit, nitros etc. user preference on a little more weight for more size. camp nano 23 are super light, but not the best when using gloves in the 'pine. Works great with bare hands that you can feel, even if you crag with a 10.2. Stay away from the metolius mini jet whatevers, so small they are unnecessarily hard to use, not sure how a great company like metolius came out with a product that seems so obviously terrible.

hahaha. I read the headline and thought it was about Genesis 1 in Hyalite, hence curious about what someone had to say about it....nope..

Being new to alpine/snow/ice climbing I cannot imagine my skills are dialed in. :-) What basics for keeping them dry? What common mistakes will get them wet? I couldn't find anything relevent on a google search or reading of previous articles. Not to be soap boxy here, but imo if you're starting at the bottom the only way to really start to get your logistics "dialed" is by getting after it and climbing alot. you will make tons of small mistakes regarding system management causing momentary discomfort (or at least I have-and still do from time to time), and hopefully no big ones. Its kinda like the way to only dial in rope management is to get out there and climb bigger stuff.

PM sent on ascenders, aiders

ahh reason number 2. If the 2nding climber falls, the blood curdling scream emitted while they take the 40 feet of slack out of the rope will give the first enough time to jump away from the wall, potentially shortening the 2nds fall, and giving the team the best change at only 1 catastrophic injury

it will be a giant hassle to adjust. if the climbing is easy enough to use the two hands required to move the knot efficiently then you will be going wayy to fast to adjust it, and if you are climbing slow enough to adjust it the you probably wont be wanting to take your hands off. My 2 cents, maybe someone has

Getting my aid on, would like to buy a pair of ascenders, metal pulley if you have a spare one.

Bump

Buyer pays shipping, good condition. Over 60% off MSRP $279 for this great jacket. http://www.mountainproject.com/v/for-sale-mammut-ultimate-hoody-mens-large-125/107488343

+1 for kit information from the "super heroes" of this website-colin haley, mark westman etc. Instead of being the optimistic annoying kid at their presentations asking them what gear they use it would be nice to lay it out all at once, and share their substantial experience. Also 12 easy steps to climb dehydrated M6 in the 'pine would be great too.....

maybe if we can coordinate everyones summit flow we can get a good smear of water ice going. Make center drip come in every year or something.......i guess "water" ice isnt exactly correct.

cytomax and other drink mixes will lower the freezing temperature of your "water" by about 10ish degrees ive found. a climbing partner of mine always uses it and for some reason his water wouldnt freeze when mine would turn into frozen blocks. actually took me some time to realize why. I have failed my middle school science teachers. .....

I hopped on tc for the 1st time last weekend, got shutdown by the runnels, though I am not sure the bypass would have been much better for a climber of my ability, though it looks like the party that posted the TR handled it just fine. they are fairly obvious once you are at the base of the runnels, which is also obvious (if nothing else there are 2 fixed stoppers there, one we rapped off. the 1st couloir goes up and to climbers right, the exit back to the second couloir will be one of the few options you have at that point. Going onto the West/nw face can be done at several points through the 1st couloir right now, though right now the face is about as appealing as runnels. thin ice and dry rock are the name of the game up there. none of the options are super obvious from the lake-hence "hidden" couloir, though you might get some glimpses of the 1st variation exit if you know where to look.

I would say it has to be Bozeman. MSU has the best ice climbing access that I can think of, considering there are no colleges in Ouray. Maybe there is something in Norway I dont know about. If you cant handle the hippy populations in Bozeman, Montana than I am not sure what to tell you. Whoever said Washington or Oregon was hopefully joking, Ice Climbing here is a sad, distant dream that usually only occurs on N. Faces. University of Idaho will put you a couple hours from banks and about 6 from hyalite, but wont offer much for weekday/after class opportunities. That being said, if you hate hippies N Idaho is the place for you, unless you are a minority and/or pro wolf

Anybody been out to Strobach lately? Hate to troll teh interwebs instead of skiing in myself, but would like to know condish's before I make the drive up from Eugene, being a damn tree hugger and all

I do use the bd v thread machine. i would never buy it retail but scored it on ebay for 6 bucks with shipping. It works for getting your line through the ice fine, has that serrated edge for when you are tired of your partners shit and makes geometrically perfect v threads in 3 sizes. what more could you want?

Anybody have any experience on hopping on the mountain after a heavy storm cell moves in? Assuming we get weather and good avy conditions, any of the steeper routes shed loose snow pretty quickly? would like to do reid or NF gulleys, but have never gotten on them during long dry periods, and would rather bring my skis than mess with steep, soft snow climbing.

I applaud your sense of ethics I knew some pervert would want to see evidence....I didn't have the mental capacity at the time to photo the scene of the crime, but here are the bolts that I, errr..chopped inadvertantly. http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=73013&title=ripped-bolts-off-thielsen&cat=500

pm sent on gopro lcd

http://www.mountain-forecast.com/peaks/Mount-Hood/forecasts/3426 ive found that, when in doubt, the PNW weather will ALWAYS buddyfuck you, as you arrived for the only storm cycle in a month. skiing should be good though.

whatever harness fits you best and has 4 gear loops with preferable ice clipper slots. and of course steve house likes the safe tech, i would too if i where sponsored, same goes for any manufacturer.

You are all certainly entitled to your opinions but i do have to say this is kinda coming out of left field to me. In my humble opinion access in Washington is wayyyy to good, as access demands in areas like the Alpine Lakes truly negate the sense of solitude and commitment, and this is AFTER the permit system was in place. Dont permanent structures like those at camp Muir ruin the climbing experience for you? Doesnt the approach bushwhack (on the few climbs that require it in Washington) add to the richness of the experience? It would break my heart if the North Cascades became as big a circus as the Alps.

+1 for the simple fact that out of state opinions on the use of federal land are just as relevant as local opinions, hence the whole federal thing. If it wasnt for wealthy k street NGOs and DC bureaucrats, all of Idaho would be 4x4 accesible and open for hunting from the drivers seat, instead of the home to the largest and most continuous pristine wilderness in the lower 48. 2 sides to every story, all Im saying.

recap: 8 lead ropes and 39 aliens? maybe you do have too much gear. why arent you MY dad?

any comment on how the size of screw used to make the v thread affects your ability to pull the rope? Ive messed around with pulling the rope through v threads made of 22 cm screws at a crag, but never have actually repelled off one