sdizzle25

I very much am. i watched Everest: Beyond the Limit once, is that enough experience? Just kidding. I am based out of Eugene, OR. where are you? (as for real experience, have done every route from Wy'East to Luethold's

Sorry bud, for many people the South Side of Hood is a perfectly acceptable pursuit, and I am happy to provide information on conditions for people looking to get out, especially when they are unusual, as they where for this post.

Fantastic gentlemen(women?), I appreciate it

Anybody have any experience insight into whether Triple Couloirs on dragontail would be in this late? Is there a chance of any ice left due to this rediculous season? anybody ever climb it "dry", if so, how was it?

Trip: Mount Hood - Right Pearly Gates??? Date: 4/20/0 Trip Report: Posting a TR of that ever-so committing and sustained CLASSIC of the south side of hood for 2 reasons: 1. so the trip report section of this website is no longer dedicated to desert cragging and 2. to give anybody looking to get up there during the next weather window i.e. july an idea of current conditions. low on time (having to get back for a class). Went for some southside action, thinking we could give the pearlies a go. 'schrund was "open" 4 feet wide in the middle? but crossable just about everywhere due the debris snow bridges. left pearly was literally about 6 inches wide due the the massive amounts of rime ice up there right now, so went to the rarely traveled climbers right passage. snow was perfect step kicking the whole way. tried to get an idea of how the devils kitchen headwall would be. whole lot of snow, my guess the ice would be pretty brittle, but really dont know for sure. I dont have any photos Approach Notes: from silcox up was ice. too icy to skin up, terrible to ski down, though i am certainly not a good skier.

Not the best pictures

Trip: Oregon- North Side of Iron Mountain - ???????? Date: 3/1/2011 Trip Report: Did some Oregon Ice climbing on the north side of Iron Mountain, Highway 20/Tombstone Pass area. Just wanted to see if we bagged some first ascents. Has anyone has ever ice climbed in the area?

im sure you know weather might be an issue tuesday, you might be able to sneak a go in monday morning if you are already there

yeah buddy.....100% success ratio when taking that approach for me and Tom

Trip: Mount Hood - Reid Headwall-The Punniest route ever Date: 2/10/2011 Trip Report: Went for a thursday morning Reid with buddy Tom, know hes on this bad boy, not sure what his cute name is. 'schrund was closed in reasonably well, with a thin layer of snow you could see. starting the route in early morning fog, trudged through about 50 feet of 40 degree powder to nonstop beautiful blue ice, mostly ~45-50. short section of ~65 degree ice. super beautiful. calfs where a burning. bluebird day up top, one of the clearest ive seen. probably wont find these conditions again after the mountain gets buried by snow all week, so just letting you know what you missed! Gear Notes: simul soloed with tools, would not take an axe. would have taken screws beautifully. Approach Notes: Full Moon Bar and Grill

Idaho has nothing but potatoes and republicans. there are no mountains and for gods sake no alpine climbing. Absolutely no reason to ever leave the cascades

pretty sure we tried crossing way higher up, pretty much at the same elevation as the top of the muir snowfield. Your way would have still been doable. i would thank you for the pictures, but they really just rub in the fact we could have had wayy more fun on the kautz so yeah, screwed the pooch for sure. lesson learned

Naturally, I get in to technical climbing when i move from Idaho to Eugene, Oregon, so after spending my teen years snowshoeing past beautiful WI 3's and 4's i will be spending the winter at sea level drenched in rain. Antyways, where is the good water ice that might (read: probably wont) form in S.W. washington this year? I know there is stuff by Leavenworth, is there anything good in Rainier National Park? I know theoretically something might form in Oregon, but i will sheild myself from heart break and not get my hopes up

Id say as long as we are equipped with the knowledge to start late season at the van tramp glacier instead of paradise we should be fine. had tools and plenty of screws, nisqually was looking really quite broken up. if im just being a wuss let me know, but the idea of spending the entire afternoon trying to cross that thing while being seranaded with consitent rock and ice fall just seemed like a little too much objective hazard to make it worth it

there's nothing wrong with the route itself, though the actual disappointment cleaver gets old real quick. i was referring to exactly that, all the guided parties, but thats just part of the reality of doing a route like that these days, so ill quit complaining.

Trip: Mount Rainier - Kautz Glacier-then DC (sigh) Date: 8/28/2010 Trip Report: Planned to do ascent of Kautz Glacier route. Mixture of rookieness on the mountain and bad advice by the climbing ranger put us heading up the muir snowfields with hopes of traversing the Nisqually onto the Turtle. Bad idea. Nisqually looks like a pile of office building size ice legos (apparently crevasses open late season?) tossed down the mountain + white out put us on the Dissapointment CLeaver Route, which I will doubtfully do again. Note: If you do do the DC (and i dont recommend it), stay at Ingraham Flats. It is about 20 minutes and at worse 2 tiny crevasses away from Muir, and you have the advantage of not being subject to the giant pile of crap (literal and figurative)that is camp muir. Regardless, 1st time on Rainier and an awesome hill. weather was beautiful with exception of the white out and snow storm on the muir (both up and down)