sdizzle25

me and my buddy blindly stumbled into the bingo cave after the first day of our first trip to hyalite. to see that video of you on it that very same night was mind blowing. thanks for the inspiration-though we still never got on anything harder than the dribbles.

turns out this shit is completely subjective, as this is clearly not a major safety issue. If you manage to actually shear through the thumb loop of your cam while the lobes are still intact you deserve some sort of prize, though i suppose you could make it kinkier than a cheerleader on prom night with a good fall on a real narrow biner. Do whatever facilitates maximum fun while climbing, and unnecessary fumbling around with your rack is not fun while on lead, in my humble opinion.

awesome! had a similar climb of the reid with nothing but water ice last february, probably the best time i have had on hood. How was the glacier? pretty manageable?

howdy y'all returning to Idaho as a technical climber for the first time in a while, and was looking for partners/beta for ice cragging and maybe some manageable alpine days. will be in boise for about a month, but willing drive a bit. let me know!

time to ask teh interwebs.....would like to solo reid HW this week if weather/homework permit. anyone been on the reid glacier lately? how is it looking? properly filled in yet?

Please note this is a CASCADES climbing forum. excessive documentation of climbing conditions in the rockies is just.........cruel...........

wondering if there are any worthwhile winter climbs on those magnificent piles of muck? having a hard time finding any info besides people talking about scrambling them in the summer.

nice scale buddy, what do you do for a living?

though its supposed to be el nino this year, so expect plenty of sastrugi and blue ice

in my experience winter climbing on easy routes makes your margin of error smaller, days are shorter, storms are worse, and it can be f***ing cold (though less rockfall). that being said beginner routes like the south side of hood/adams/rainier etc can be less technical, as one will be climbing snow instead of late season glacier ice. if you want to really get a safe start to winter mountain climbing wait until NWAC says its safe to climb st. helens-though you should always judge the avalanche danger yourself. this can give you a feel for managing climbing in more taxing conditions (as in learning how to piss without taking your gloves off, what you need to hike at a good pace w/o sweating much in 20 degree temps), while still what being what most people would consider "safe". its also a pretty cool hike and an awesome ski down. just dont go close to the cornices on the crater rim, they can be pretty big (>20 feet)

could you find a better picture actually? i judge the quality of a tool by subtle changes in its shadow

blah blah blah i dont have to go to college blah blah blah

I went backpacking near mccall when i was about 15 and saw a granite wall above a lake that i reackoned at the time to be closer to 1000 feet than 500( i wasnt a climber than and didnt often judge these things. Its been bugging me to go back and find it, I reckon like most of Idaho, FAs are out there and not too difficult. Even at the time it looked splitter though

interested in buying a pair of toe bails from petzl pons. let me know!

i do hate trying to cut hotline with a dainty chainsaw. stihls are good shit, though i like a nice husqvarna. they match my phantom guides

i agree no good climbing. how many potato farms did you have to navigate on the approach? too bad there arent any other mountains in the area

its human nature mate. the most intense brand loyalty or connection i have ever experienced is loggers/fire fighters/forest workers and their boots . i honestly think its a completely natural side effect of placing some degree of your well being into a piece of merchandize mass produced by a brand you have no direct connection to, as i have no idea who made my westco's/scarpas/c4's, but i literally trust them with my life

you would think patagucci would send a memo out to their "ambassadors" or something. picked up a nano puff for 60 bucks though, hard to complain

i always stick myself with an epi pen before a hard redpoint. pull wayyyy harder

bump bump bump it up

bump

Anybody know if there is actually ice on the kautz yet or is it still all snow?

Pair of like new Kayland 6001s. Asking $400. Did one short hike in them, warmer than what i am looking for. 11.5 sizing, fits my 10.5/11 feet well. Buyer pays shipping to lower 48, paypal preferred. Boots seen here; http://www.bentgate.com/kayland-6001-mountaineering-boot.html?AdID=331--14000-14008 Dead Guy Ale not included, cheese grater could be for the right price

Terrible Traverse Bowling alley. Should be clear in a week of so, Ice wasnt great, certainly climbale though. climbed N and Middle sisters 7/22. N was clear of snow until the pretty easy traverse and the quiet bowling alley. avoid the southeast ridge like the F***ing plague though, it sucks

oh oregon.....