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Posts
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Everything posted by kukuzka1
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[TR] NEWS - West face and Northwest corner 7/13/2008
kukuzka1 replied to mountainmatt's topic in North Cascades
wow! summer and warm rock looks nice right now -
[TR] Sloan Peak - Corkscrew in Winter 2/21/2010
kukuzka1 replied to Tom_Sjolseth's topic in North Cascades
Great tick, im sure a winter ascent is rare. -
[TR] alpine lakes - central park gully attempt 3/12/2011
kukuzka1 replied to kukuzka1's topic in Alpine Lakes
I believe calvin klimb is the 1st gully on the right from the descent col? central park is the last gully before you hit the start for new york gully -
[TR] alpine lakes - central park gully attempt 3/12/2011
kukuzka1 replied to kukuzka1's topic in Alpine Lakes
yes thats central park gully. looks pretty phat -
[TR] alpine lakes - central park gully attempt 3/12/2011
kukuzka1 replied to kukuzka1's topic in Alpine Lakes
yes that would be sweet off white. m.preiss -
[TR] alpine lakes - central park gully attempt 3/12/2011
kukuzka1 replied to kukuzka1's topic in Alpine Lakes
Just rehashing old report to win a prize-thats sick -
Trip: alpine lakes - central park gully attempt Date: 3/12/2011 Trip Report: Trip: nw face w satilite peak mt snoqualmi - central park gully gdII+ AI3+R A-2 JUST TRYING TO GET THE PRIZE FOR MARCH TR'S Date: 2/23/2010 Trip Report: in feb 1993 myself and steve wick climbed up to below the large cave on the upper 1/3 of the couloir. the 1st pitch climbs a 75+ ice/snice smear to a chockstone belay on the left or a tree belay up and right. then follow the corner[60-70degree] until the cave. above the cave is a straitforward 50 degree snow couloir. in 93 we bailed. on tuesday 2-23-10 i downclimbed and rapped to the base of the cave intent on rope soloing the crux pitch to finish it.it starts on the right side of the cave on near vertical rock[pro difficult]for 30 feet then mellows to 65 degrees with nice sticks.well i couldnt lead it so i top-ropped it and then rappled the rest of the couloir fixing some anchors on the way. the crux pitch still needs a proper lead, maybe when feeling stronger? it will be a bold lead. the climbing over-all is really good but protection is difficult to find, although the anchors are solid but you do have to search for them. I doubt it will become popular?. if anyones done it already let me know? m.preiss Gear Notes: 1 60 meter rope two would be nice if rappeling but i did it w/one. 8-10 pins thin-1 inch full set nuts and tricams and a few cams.1-2 ice scews shorties? Approach Notes: same as new york gully, its the left most gully on the satilite peak with an obvious large cave. 4-5 pitches + 300 ft upper couloir _________________________ Approach Notes: same as nyg
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that sure has a resemblence to sperry peak
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reping the 206
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date a super-model
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[TR] Bonanza Peak - W Peak and Company Glacier Ski 2/15/2011
kukuzka1 replied to Gaston's topic in Central/Eastern Washington
Thanks, I want to get in their in winter -
[TR] Bonanza Peak - W Peak and Company Glacier Ski 2/15/2011
kukuzka1 replied to Gaston's topic in Central/Eastern Washington
Nice job, was that also the 1st winter ascent of the west peak? bebie and skoog made the 1st on the main peak in early 80S. how long to get in their? and did you get a sled ride to the end of the road? -
NW Buttress sloan [iV 5.8/9 AO] 2000 if interested? in beckeys green book. Also preiss route garfield west [iII+5.8/9] 1999 [already in forums] Not an old timer yet but real close
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nevermind, that is the 1971 north face route. dohh
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Isnt that the north face route? 1960s
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whats next- you had to have bought your plane ticket in "winter"? if your on the top in winter then its a winter ascent IMO
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I believe the polish routes were all done in the "official" winter season. The poles have suffered throughout history and the winter expeditions were a "break" for them.
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Hey watch your mouth! no french alowed
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Less time in the death,avalache,weather,altitude,rockfall zones. I assume
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Also depends if your more of a "group person" or more of a individualist. some are just not cut out for learning that way
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Generaly I believe you must add 1 more grade level in winter do to longer aproaches, less help available, more storms, less daylight, harder rock climbing, ect.. [exmpl= north face index grd III+ in summer grd IV+ in winter/ stuarts complete n ridge IV in summer V in winter]
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Its probibly best to start doing some easier summer climbs first rather than winter. such as ingles s. ridge, tooth south face,north sister west ridge to get your belaying/anchor building technique down without spindrift pounding you and frozen fingers. then get a few harder[grd 11-111s]just go slow and youll learn your physical and mental limits as you progress. spring is fine if the weather cooperates but youll probibly need skis or snowshoes for travel.
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winter? in summer just get the beckey bibles and browse, endless posibilities. in winter I would say colchuck peak via the north couloir, tooth south face, chair peak n.face
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sweeeeeeet! Dragontail rocks!
