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kukuzka1

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Everything posted by kukuzka1

  1. I think enviormentalist want to try a set a boundry to the next generation that its not ok to rip out that stump, bolt that face, ect... just like in saxony and other places where you cant use freinds or chalk. how do you think they enforce that? its probibly generations of ethics being passed down.
  2. wow! summer and warm rock looks nice right now
  3. Great tick, im sure a winter ascent is rare.
  4. I believe calvin klimb is the 1st gully on the right from the descent col? central park is the last gully before you hit the start for new york gully
  5. yes thats central park gully. looks pretty phat
  6. yes that would be sweet off white. m.preiss
  7. Just rehashing old report to win a prize-thats sick
  8. Trip: alpine lakes - central park gully attempt Date: 3/12/2011 Trip Report: Trip: nw face w satilite peak mt snoqualmi - central park gully gdII+ AI3+R A-2 JUST TRYING TO GET THE PRIZE FOR MARCH TR'S Date: 2/23/2010 Trip Report: in feb 1993 myself and steve wick climbed up to below the large cave on the upper 1/3 of the couloir. the 1st pitch climbs a 75+ ice/snice smear to a chockstone belay on the left or a tree belay up and right. then follow the corner[60-70degree] until the cave. above the cave is a straitforward 50 degree snow couloir. in 93 we bailed. on tuesday 2-23-10 i downclimbed and rapped to the base of the cave intent on rope soloing the crux pitch to finish it.it starts on the right side of the cave on near vertical rock[pro difficult]for 30 feet then mellows to 65 degrees with nice sticks.well i couldnt lead it so i top-ropped it and then rappled the rest of the couloir fixing some anchors on the way. the crux pitch still needs a proper lead, maybe when feeling stronger? it will be a bold lead. the climbing over-all is really good but protection is difficult to find, although the anchors are solid but you do have to search for them. I doubt it will become popular?. if anyones done it already let me know? m.preiss Gear Notes: 1 60 meter rope two would be nice if rappeling but i did it w/one. 8-10 pins thin-1 inch full set nuts and tricams and a few cams.1-2 ice scews shorties? Approach Notes: same as new york gully, its the left most gully on the satilite peak with an obvious large cave. 4-5 pitches + 300 ft upper couloir _________________________ Approach Notes: same as nyg
  9. that sure has a resemblence to sperry peak
  10. date a super-model
  11. Thanks, I want to get in their in winter
  12. Nice job, was that also the 1st winter ascent of the west peak? bebie and skoog made the 1st on the main peak in early 80S. how long to get in their? and did you get a sled ride to the end of the road?
  13. NW Buttress sloan [iV 5.8/9 AO] 2000 if interested? in beckeys green book. Also preiss route garfield west [iII+5.8/9] 1999 [already in forums] Not an old timer yet but real close
  14. nevermind, that is the 1971 north face route. dohh
  15. Isnt that the north face route? 1960s
  16. whats next- you had to have bought your plane ticket in "winter"? if your on the top in winter then its a winter ascent IMO
  17. I believe the polish routes were all done in the "official" winter season. The poles have suffered throughout history and the winter expeditions were a "break" for them.
  18. kukuzka1

    Alpine Climbing

    Hey watch your mouth! no french alowed
  19. kukuzka1

    Alpine Climbing

    Less time in the death,avalache,weather,altitude,rockfall zones. I assume
  20. Always looked at that line but never tried it. dont know if its been ascended? but its been descended. good job
  21. kukuzka1

    Alpine Climbing

    Also depends if your more of a "group person" or more of a individualist. some are just not cut out for learning that way
  22. Generaly I believe you must add 1 more grade level in winter do to longer aproaches, less help available, more storms, less daylight, harder rock climbing, ect.. [exmpl= north face index grd III+ in summer grd IV+ in winter/ stuarts complete n ridge IV in summer V in winter]
  23. kukuzka1

    Alpine Climbing

    Its probibly best to start doing some easier summer climbs first rather than winter. such as ingles s. ridge, tooth south face,north sister west ridge to get your belaying/anchor building technique down without spindrift pounding you and frozen fingers. then get a few harder[grd 11-111s]just go slow and youll learn your physical and mental limits as you progress. spring is fine if the weather cooperates but youll probibly need skis or snowshoes for travel.
  24. kukuzka1

    Alpine Climbing

    winter? in summer just get the beckey bibles and browse, endless posibilities. in winter I would say colchuck peak via the north couloir, tooth south face, chair peak n.face
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