Juan Sharp

I’ll try to be there, too. Blast from the past. Someone needs to keep Jason Griffith under control.

Great work. Did you happen to see two young guys who turned back at the Cool Glacier?

Darin, when I look in the mirror I see a valued customer of LensCrafters. =;-)

Yeah, Jim is really old. So old, in fact, that he knows to hold his lighter high in the air during "Free Bird."

We saw a band at the Tractor that night but I can't recall the name. Would recognize it if I heard it, though.

When Jim proposed the NE Rib late one night at the bar at Ballard's Hattie's Hat (for inclusion in his Vol. II, then in progress), I don't recall discussion of '57 vs. '51. I do recall that he had beta from Rowland Tabor to the effect that Rowland and party summited by noon or early afternoon on their FA in '57. I was drunk enough to sign on for the trip but the third guy wisely said nope. We later lured Bob Davis to join and ultimately proved that Rowland et al. were the better men. I still have fond memories of snuggling with Big Jim at our unplanned shiver bivi. =;-)

Which variation of the NE Rib is more popular - '57 or '51?

Is “forgotten” a synonym for “flung over shoulder”?

Thanks for posting the line. Can't wait to learn who attempts the second ascent and whether they climb it in full beekeeper's garb.

Good grief. What an effort and the best route name ever. Your piano teacher would be proud. Any chance you'll post a photo with your line marked?

Looking to get out and Glacier/Disappointment Peak Cleaver would fit the bill. Two nights so would be pretty chill. Leave early Saturday - I’m coming from Bellevue. Anyone?

Good to know this bit of history, Jim. Those guys were animals. We described the crossing to the best of our ability and gave it a name in jest, which for whatever reason has stuck. Those cairns we found must have been from your pals in 1938. Glad your new guidebook recommends this as Option 2, versus Vol. II of your first book, which suggested the scary Gunsight Notch as Option 2. I see now that green Fred (3rd ed., fourth printing 2020) describes "Doug's Direct" by name, as well (see pgs. 274-275). This is the way. [TR] Johannesberg Mtn. - E. Ridge 7/12/2004 By Juan, July 14, 2004 in North Cascades Posted July 14, 2004 (edited) Climb: Johannesberg Mtn.-E. Ridge Date of Climb: 7/12/2004 We set a date many months ago, and the weather cooperated. We left Seattle Sunday morning (7/11) and left the car at the gate on the Cascade River Road (Eldo trailhead) at 8:45 or so. We reached Gunsight Notch in a few hours, and were bummed out when we looked down the steep gully on the other side. We knew the Gunsight Traverse is considered "tedious," but it also looked damn dangerous to descend. So we opted to try "Doug's Direct." This was an unproven means of getting over Mix Up Peak, and it worked like a charm. To do this (and we know from cairns on the back that we are not the first to have done so), proceed on the Cache Glacier to the upper climbers' right on the snow as if starting the Rowland Tabor route on Mix Up (the N. Ridge). Scramble straight up to the ridge crest instead of bearing left per the N. Ridge route (class 3-4). Don't go to the deep notch on your right, but rather look straight over the top. If you've hit it right, you'll see more class 3 on the other side, then a long passage of heather heading down to the alp slope that separates Mix Up from the Triplets. Descend on the path of least resistance. If you look at Beckey's green guide, the drawing that covers J'Berg to Cache Col has the words "alp slope" in the middle. Our camp was just above the word "slope." Room enough for two bivi sacks plus running water. Beautiful view spot with sun until late. We drank a pint of whiskey, took Ambien, and slept well.

Probably right but worth a shot.

Old age and trickery carry the day, yet again. Terrific job!

You should ask them, Jim.

Glad to see that Doug's Direct is still is use. Doug would just smile and say that it "seemed pretty trivial, don't ya think" with his South Carolina accent. The last time we had lunch together he picked my brain about our trip and my trip report (from 2004?) where we christened the ridge crossing. As I recall, the Mounties had asked Doug to describe Doug's Direct for a revised version of green Fred. For what it's worth, I still think Doug's Direct is objectively safer than down-climbing the CJ Couloir. Jim Nelson, Bob Davis and I nearly got the chop in the couloir after climbing the NE Buttress in July 1999. And of course we were "overdue," there was a helicopter with Kelly Bush following "congressional involvement," blah, blah, blah. My Kingdom for a Cell Phone. In any event, RIP Doug.

I have a question for you Picket-teers. When I first visited the S. Pickets in late July 1987, we took a gully from Terror Creek Basin up The Barrier to access and climb the NE Ridge of The Chopping Block. The gully was pretty steep snow for the lower maybe 2/3 and forked at the top. The left fork was dry compact mud - we descended this way and it was attention-getting. The right fork, which we used on the ascent, had a tree that we climbed and then lunged for the lip of a cliff that required a full body, do-or-fall and get seriously fucked up pull up at the top. I may or may not have dry heaved after that move. Anyway, it seemed like the only obvious way to get up and down The Barrier. Is this gully still a thing or does everyone now use the Crescent Creek Basin approach? To put things in perspective, the Goodell Creek approach took us two and half days in a driving rain before we even saw the Pickets as the skies cleared. There was no trail. At all. The last time I went in there for McMillan (fourth summit) the trail was a relative freeway.

The cool kids leave the tent poles at home. Or, maybe somewhere along the route, as the case may be.

Todd Bibler might call it an "Impotent."

I can't reveal all my secrets, Jason, even after 5 1/2 days of trying but failing to keep up with you on the Ptarmigan Traverse. =;-)

Such an awesome route - great TR and photos! In 2001, Erik Snyder (whatever happened to him - moved to Tahoe and then?), my wife and I did it in a day door-to-door from Bellevue. We were late getting home to the babysitter. =;-) In 2005, Kurt Hicks and I did it after deciding against the Crawling Rat Rib. We cheated by sleeping in Leroy Basin. You should consider the Entiat Icefall as another good route on Maude (Bob Davis and I did that in 2000 with the great and handsome Chris Weidner). And, for routes like this, the North Face of Sinister is in good shape right now. Just spent a couple days looking at it from the Ptarmigan Traverse. Caveat - the Bachelor Creek "trail" is in rough shape right now. Unless you like blow down, in which case you'll be psyched.

They'd think you're soft, Bronco. =;-) There are two things I wish I'd had on that route in July1999: heavy-duty garden gloves and a cell phone. One of these wishes has been well documented. Big Jim Nelson wishes he'd had more cans of grape soda. Way to move fast on a route that can really sap your energy and mess with your head. I'd like to think that Doug Walker was smiling from above and watching over you.

Solid effort and solo to boot! Wow. I've never been in that way. You talk about the importance of sticking to the trail on an approach to the pickets. It took a partner and me two full days in a driving rain to get to the southern pickets in mid-July 1987. We were 24 with heavy packs and it worked us hard. Unlike now, there really was no trail back then but we did encounter a few faded pieces of surveyor's tape, which was somewhat comforting. Like maybe five or six pieces in two days. Once the skies cleared and we could see the peaks up close we were dumbstruck. So yeah, the effort's worth it. Keep up the great work and reports.

Hi Dave, I checked my photos and didn't see any of the dog or dogs (I think we saw two?). Although I'm an attorney, I don't know whether it's legal to have a dog on Baker. Mount Adams certainly sees its share of pooches. Maybe more people should consider the Boulder Glacier Route - it's a good one. Full value, like you said. Be well, John

Hey you two, I was with Tom Breit. We did the Boulder Glacier Route and I'm happy to provide beta to anyone who is considering that one. We had the route to ourselves and so were somewhat surprised to see so many people (and dogs) on top. But, as Alisse commented, the weather was bomber and folks have been cooped up. It was time for everyone to stretch their legs! A great day in the hills and the post-climb Advil seems to be helping. Cheers, John