Juan Sharp

Jason, I had to stop often but at least my transitions were slow. I'll add that this was a really "full-value" trip with a fun and very solid partner. Also, between June 2015 and this past weekend, and even compared to the third weekend of this July, the climber's trail from about 3,600' to the base of the slide has improved considerably. We added a few strips of surveyors tape to help the cause. As for the ice bear, in looking at a topo, it may have come up from the Dana Glacier. It headed S/SW across the upper Chickamin at maybe 8,000' to 8,200'. I can't figure out how it could have gotten around Dome heading S because the back side of Dome looks so steep. We hope he didn't fall into a crack but were relieved to not find him waiting for us as we retraced our steps up to the D-C col. As we discussed our "what-if-he-attacks" scenarios while on the route, Dana reminded me that he (Dana) is a former collegiate runner. This did not bode well for Juan, aka "Captain Slow Twitch."

Emailed you at djcbellows@gmail.com. Right?

Anyone want to get out this weekend? Forecast is bomber. Jack? Formidable? Logan? Bonanza? Rock climbing?

Thinking of getting out this coming weekend, somewhere in the N. Cascades. If I go solo I'd probably try Logan Fremont Glacier and hope the moat is not an issue. But, open to other ideas. Challenger in three days probably too much. Anyone going out? Thanks, John Sharp aka Juan

Got it and thanks for the further explanation. The regular route is quite benign, and for me the only difficulty was trying to keep up with my collegiate rower son. As expected, he slowed his pace at altitude but I still looked at his back all day (except on the first slope with the crack).

I took my 19-year old son up this route one week before you. He's never climbed a thing but learned quickly on the fly. I must say we did not find anything close to the conditions you describe. One crack mid-way up the first slope which was easily crossed. After cresting that first slope we encountered nothing but low- to medium-angle snow before and after joining the south spur route. Did you stay to the right and climb the headwall? Well done as a solo. John Sharp

Sweet Lord Jesus it's a fire! Ain't nobody got time for that.

Leave Seattle early Saturday. Weather looks fine and no fires on the Thunder Creek side. Lots of walking. Who's game? If no partner it'll be just me and Bud Green.

My regular partner from Boulder dislocated his shoulder rafting the Colorado. Rafting is dangerous. We were planning to go the Winds Aug. 10-18 to climb moderates. My other partners are busy as well. I have a spousal hall pass and still want to get out. Have not purchased flights. Ideas include the Winds (Wolf's Head, Pingora, etc.), Canadian Rockies (Robson, Edith Cavell, etc.), or Cascades (Challenger, other Pickets, Redoubt, Spickard?). You may have other ideas. Looking for a fun, reasonably motivated and competent partner (or partners). Best email is work (jsharp@fifthavenue-law.com). Let's go! John Sharp

I remember suggesting to Doug that IF his idea worked, and we could indeed cross the ridge above us, we would call it "Doug's Direct." I'm amazed that the July 2004 TR on our aborted J'Berg trip has led to so much beta on the crossing. Ironically, Doug recently pulled from several sources to add a section on the crossing in the upcoming, revised green CAG. Re: the 1957 NE Rib Route, I have a standing reward ($47) for the empty can of grape soda that big Jim Nelson unceremoniously tossed over his shoulder after downing the drink on our July 1999 climb. It was in the steep heather section below the Ti pin. Hope it's found some day!

Thanks Jason, I feel old but at least I'm getting wrinkly and gray.

While approaching the summit "crete" (?), I felt so disoriented -- almost upside down, really. Many thanks to Bronco for getting me out just days before my 52nd birthday (which was yesterday). It's a young man's game, that's for sure. Juan

If you left your BD glove at the very summit of Forbidden this weekend email me at john@johnmsharp.com. The glove is lonely and looking for its mate.

Trust me you're better off without the visual.

Hey Bronco, do you think that group of Mounties saw the same bear that we heard about? Hope they came out OK! Juan

Yeah, I just discovered that the cops can't pick up the signal from my ankle bracelet in the N. Cascades. So awesome to get away for a bit! Shhhh, don't tell anyone.

Avy Lil, Good work on J'Berg. Sorry about that whole "Doug's Direct" thing. Seemed like such a good idea at the time. You can blame Doug Walker for the actual idea on where to cross the ridge, and me for writing it up here on CC.com. Here's a little bit about Doug. He's the current Secretary of the American Alpine Club and, the last time I checked, was still climbing circles around people many, many years his junior. And you don't even want to be subjected to his math brain teasers, world geography quizzes or lectures on weighty topics such as "what is the nature of infinity?" Others will surely back me up here. From the AAC website: "Secretary — Doug Walker has been a climber for more than 40 years. He started climbing in the Southeast in 1970 and became more seriously engaged when he moved to Seattle in 1972. Doug has been able to climb in most parts of the U.S., many parts of Canada, Alaska, Europe, New Zealand, Africa, and Nepal. Doug has a serious commitment to conservation of mountain landscapes and promotion of the climbing way of life. In his professional life he co-founded and managed a mid-sized world-wide software company for 25 years. Doug served as a Director of REI for 12 years and was Chair of REI from 2005–08. As an REI Director, he played an important role in addressing the “fixed anchor” crisis in 1998. Currently, Doug is the Chair of the Wilderness Society and has served as a Director for the American Alpine Club and the Conservation Lands Foundation and is an Advisory Council Member for NPCA and the Land Trust Alliance. In his spare time, Doug volunteers as a climbing instructor for the YMCA’s BOLD program and actively enjoys climbing with his grown daughter and many friends." Keep up the good work and hey, let's stay safe out there!

That's a deal. Boy, your handwriting is as bad as mine. We should have been doctors.

P.S., If you add up all my posts dating back to the handle "Mr. Goodtime" in the 1990s, don't I deserve to be something other than a "noob"? Is there a category for aging white guys who get out once or twice a year and lag far, far behind the likes of Jason G.? Just curious . . . .

Gents, I found the story of our July 1999 N.E. Butt. adventure with Big Jim and scanned a copy to Jason this morning. I don't seem to have a soft copy. The initial "Doug's Direct" ridge crossing description should still be in the CC.com system from my subsequent E. Ridge trip with Doug Walker. Too funny to see that piece of legal paper with my shitty handwriting that was placed in the summit register. Thanks for sharing that, Ivan! Name your poison and I'll make good. Cheers, Juan

The annual alpine ritual is becoming this: (1) Find partners, all of whom are younger in years, for a single 3-4 day trip; (2) Spend more time buying new gear than training; (3) Blast out of the desk chair and into the Cascades; (4) Spend entire time looking at partners' backs and trying to keep up; (5) Eagerly anticipate damage to heels and loss of big toenails; and (6) Gross people out by wearing flip-flops in the office post-trip. But it is still worth every minute! Juan

Jim Nelson pounded the single Ushba titanium pin on Monday, July 19, 1999. Can't believe it's still there. So glad to see pictures in the narrow snow gully following the rappel. Such a cool place and so often passed up for the "5.3" rock that is really 5.8ish. Way to go with such a fast ascent -- we THOUGHT it was a day climb; you made it one. Hell, it's practically a trade route now. Maybe the Mounties will choose this route as a new beginner-class graduation climb. Better bring the walkie-talkies, bro.

Bronco, where did you hang your food? Any trees in the basin? I hear there's bears up there. Your law-abiding pal, Juan

It seems that it's becoming a bit of a ritual unless you carry over. =;-)

Yes, first trip with them. I have always worn my climbing boots on the approach going back to 1985 -- these Salewa boots were particularly unforgiving on my 48-year old feet, however. 100% blister free!