Juan Sharp

Hey Richard, I have a hunch you're in better shape at age 61 (?) than a lot of guys half your age.

Agreed. Likely to be some exposed rock now.

Dana is a kind and patient man. He assured me repeatedly that my sluggish pace and frequent stops were no issue. But let's be clear, this trip kicked my ass. Everything still hurts. A few observations: When we climbed the North Face of Sinister in August 2016, we seemed more evenly matched. Now, at age 56, a lengthy three-day trip with zero conditioning has become a true suffer-fest. Since 2016, I've gained almost 20 pounds. See the photo of me on the glacier - that round thing in my mid-section may as well be near-full-term baby. At age 42, Dana still sits at his long-distance college runner weight. He still has visible abs! I try not to hate him for this. My pack was relatively huge; Dana's looked like a school girl's book bag. How does he survive for THREE WHOLE DAYS without the 110 essentials? Dana wore Solomon trail runners; I wore La Sportiva Trangos. This was a mistake on my part, as usual. Toe nails will be lost. I sweat like a Russian oligarch in a Moscow steam bath; Dana never even glistened, despite the heat. He says he's "air cooled." It's weird. Unlike *CutebutChossy69*/bluebagprincess and her partner, Dana and I remained fully clothed while tackling the summit pyramid. This was a good thing for all concerned. In sum, we had a fine time and I hope that by mid-September I'll be able to take a single flight of stairs without eating four Advil.

Great work. Your photos are a stark reminder of how climate change has affected aspects such as the snow apron leading to the north ridge proper. I don’t recall what months I climbed it (twice) but, other than a lateral crack at the bottom, it was continuous snow and ice to the top/ridge. DPS may have written up the more recent outing. Glad you persevered and made the right choice by hunkering down on your descent.

Great work, young man. Seldom have I felt as relieved to be in the Cascade Pass parking lot (or any parking lot, post-climb) as when Bob Davis, Jim Nelson and I arrived there in the early evening on day two of what was supposed to be a day trip up the N.E. Buttress, in July 1999. Aside from being "overdue," we had down climbed the CJ Couloir and were very lucky to avoid serious rockfall. It was stressful. Our relief was short-lived, however, when we heard and then saw the N.C.N.P. Rangers heading up-valley in a chopper. After the whirlybird landed in the picnic area, the ensuing conversation with Kelly Bush is one I'll never forget. She and I reminisced at Fred's memorial. Also, a shout out is in order for the late and great Doug Walker, who suggested the ridge crossing on a different trip to J'Berg. I was skeptical but it worked, and the name "Doug's Direct" in my subsequent TR seems to have stuck. R.I.P. Doug.

This is now officially on my short list provided Jason accompanies with all necessary photographic equipment, frog spray and bolt cutters to allow easy access to the hermit hostel.

The Pickets - blood, sweat and bees.

Because this involves technology I'm of zero use here.

Yes, but the rangers set up a series of raps for the lower portion that most people use. Above that point we did a combination of rapping and lightly protected downclimbing.

That's a great route. Too bad it was so crowded. We had it mostly to ourselves which was nice.

Wow, that's fast. Kids these days . . . . The scramble to the true summit of Luna is a little creaky but not scary.

We'll post a full TR with photos in the next couple of days, but in the meantime, wanted to advise that the Challenger main summit is still accessible by staying to the far left side of the glacier. At the lower lip of the large 'schrund (with exposed rock in its middle) that's typically crossed on the right (ramp still good), work left to the base of the summit ridge line. The continuous snow ridge is maybe 45 degrees at its steepest; we used two tools each and two pickets for running belays. Once on top of the snow ridge, moving from snow to the third-class rock section is not too difficult, either. The final climb to the top is sporty and fun. PM if you'd like more detail. John Sharp

Thank you. One of the Rangers who attempted Challenger called me and we talked at length. Very helpful. My partner and I are heading in tomorrow via Hannegan/Imperfect Impasse/Perfect Pass. Hoping to find a way through the maze . . . . John Sharp

Hi Rangers, a partner and I had plans to head to Challenger via Hannegan etc. this Thursday. I'd like to speak with a member of the team that posted this TR tomorrow (Monday) if possible. What number should I call and for whom should I ask? Thanks for your help, John Sharp (425) 765-7747

Nice TR on this route. I did the same itinerary (up the Quien Sabe and down the Arm) in 2000 with a guy who'd never climbed a thing and it went fine. With that in mind, I took my oldest son up there two days ago, on Sunday. His only prior climb is Mt. Adams via the Mazama Glacier last summer, and he'd never climbed on rock. But, he rows in college so his cardio fitness and ability to suffer are both very high. We left Bellevue at 4:55 a.m. and departed the Boston Basin TH at 8:05. I believe we reached the summit at 2:00 or so. Our ascent included some on-the-job training on scrambling, which he found unnerving but is glad to have overcome. We met two nice pairs and a throng of lady bugs on the summit. Fortunately, one pair (Jerome and Mike?) had a 60m rope which we all used to rappel the standard route. More on-the-job training for my son, who clearly understood the catch phrase "lean back, relax, and enjoy!" In the past, I've used a 30m and made two rappels off the top. On Sunday, I didn't scout the whole face for mid-way slings but didn't see any either. Perhaps the rangers cleaned the tat? In any event, I'd want a 60m or two 30m next time. Once on the snow, we headed down the Arm, chatting with hikers and photographing goats along the way. At Cascade Pass we ran into young hard men Zach (sp?) and Bobby who'd just climbed J'Berg's NE Buttress and exited via Doug's Direct. I quizzed them about the route, having done it in 1999 with Jim Nelson and Bob Davis. They reported that it's still wild and committing and shows little signs of traffic. Sadly, they saw no evidence of Jim's empty can of grape-flavored Fanta. The search continues and the reward stands. Zach and Bobby kindly drove us down to our car which we reached at about 7:00 p.m. We sat down for dinner at Buffalo Run at about 8:00 and I proceeded to question our cute waitress from Ukraine. The other also-cute waitress is from Russia. How they ended up in Marblemount, of all places, is pretty amusing. The proprietor Marshall seemed quite pleased with his young, female foreign-born help. All in all, the Quien Sabe/Sahale Traverse (or whatever you'd call it) makes for fun outing, even when Canadian smoke inhibits the otherwise terrific views.

Does anyone know what happened as reported in the Seattle Times this morning? Bellingham woman killed on the descent. Story says she possibly rapped off the end of her rope and fell into a crevasse. This could certainly happy during a descent of the gully but the article doesn't say. Really sad story. Be safe out there.

Makes sense. Too far to go to get turned around. Any ground bees yet on the BC trail?

Der Literer, Hah, just kidding. Regarding Sinister's North Face, the crack that's 2/3rds of the way up ran almost the entire width of the face in mid-August last year. I led up to it on the right and my strong young partner, Dana Bellows, then led about 75 ft. of poorly protected rock to get back onto the snow. Had I stayed far left below the crack, the snow was probably continuous. In other words, for others considering the North Face, the crack is not a show-stopper. Our challenges had more to do with the very broken up glacier getting to and from Sinister via the D-C Col. And, of course, the dreaded "Ice Bear," which was pretty spooky. See the TR by Bellows from last August. Now that so many more people are heading in to the area let's hope they act as good stewards of the environment. It's a special place.

Do you have something lined up? I'm hoping to get out Wednesday for a long day in the alpine. Have a few ideas like Colchuck NBC which is always fun and should be in good shape now. Let me know. Thanks! John Sharp

Looking to possibly get out this Sunday and Monday for a conditioner. I don't have backcountry skis but will get snow shoes. Open to ideas in N. Cascades and Stuart Range. Probably can't leave too early Sunday am due to event the night before. I live in Bellevue and can drive. No Trump voters, please. Anyone? John "Juan" Sharp

Got it. We did the 1957 variation as written up in Jim and Peter's Vol. II. Keep up the good work.

Well done. That route leaves a mark. What's the status of the Ti pin that Big Jim Nelson placed on our July 1999 ascent? Assume you went left to the rock rather than rapping at that point? The gully must be mostly if not entirely melted out now. Also, did you happen to see Big Jim's empty can of Grape Fanta on the rib itself? It was misplaced.

Great route and quite something for its grade.

It's a cool route,reminiscent of the North Faces of Buckner, Shuksan and Maude, with Maude probably being the easiest of the four. If you like these types of snow and ice routes then go try Stanley Peak, North Face, Kahl Route in Kootenay National Park, BC. Stunning climb.

Adding to what Dana Bellows says, as you work up the hillside on the left side of the creek (after leaving the Downey Creek trail) you'll have no real trouble following the trail through the timber and brush to about 4,000'. On both trips this summer my altimeter said the log crossing is at 4,020'. Before crossing the creek, at the fork that Dana describes, you want to go RIGHT, toward the creek which at that point you can hear very well. Another maybe 100 yards and you will see the magic log crossing. You can walk the log if it's dry or scoot on your butt if it's wet. Exit the log to your left and you'll see the trail through slide alder and bushes. It's not hard to follow at this point. There's occasional flagging and the trail is well beaten in. The other, left option at the fork would keep you on the left side of the creek until crossing somewhere around 4,500' per other reports. We cannot verify the quality/difficulty of this variation but it's clear people have used it. Word is this left-side alternative will take you to a crossing very near a camp site on the right side of the creek at about 4,500'. The camp site features several fire rings and a large rock with fire scars.