Juan Sharp

Amen Brother Bob!

Jason: I was spewing Jason-isms all weekend. "It sure is hot, but at least the trail is really dusty."

Good job guys. Any sign of an empty grape soda can that Jim Nelson casually tossed over his shoulder on our 1999 ascent, or the titanium pin at the point where you either rap into the snow gully or venture out to the scary 5.8 pitch (that was described as being 5.3, even though we didn't go that way; oops)? J'Berg looked fabulous from the summit of Goode on Sunday. Bob: We couldn't have burned that many calories because we didn't take very much food. Too heavy, as I recall. John

In July 1999, Jim Nelson, Bob Davis and I were half a day overdue in the minds of two wives (mine and Bob's), but not per our registration in Marblemount. We were climbing the NE Rib of J'Berg and tried it as a day climb. It took us two days and we had no cell phone with which to call and let the wives know we'd be late. In the early evening of day two, a helicopter was dispatched and found us in the Cascade Pass parking lot changing our clothes and just about to crack a celebratory beer. Out hopped Kelly Bush. While everyone was glad we were safe and sound, I can say that it was an expensive and embarrassing experience on a number of levels. The word "treat" certainly does not come to mind. While the new digital cell phones seem worthless even compared to the old analog phones we used to carry, the satellite phone may well be a good idea for a committing route like the Price. Other than that, my advice would be to never cause loved ones and rangers to have to worry if you can avoid it by turning around. Sometimes being late cannot be helped -- we've all been there. But if you have the choice (and maybe in this case you did not for the reasons Jason mentioned), the responsible decision is to save the climb for another day. In any event, good work on the tough route.

Jonathan did you get my PM? I am looking to get out July 8-10 or 9-11 to the North Cascades and have a plan. Can you let me know if you are still looking for someone? Thanks, John Sharp

Thanks Lowell and Buckaroo! Maybe the answer is to climb up and then down climb the 1972 north face route. Perhaps there is enough snow so that the schrund is covered or otherwise easily passable. Wishful thinking perhaps. With luck, we shall see. John

Lowell and Le Piston: Thank you both for your replies -- it is most helpful. Lowell, when you say "looker's right," do you mean the gully to the right of the rib as seen from the top and looking down? If so, "looker's left" would be the 1938 route, right? Le Piston, if we are fortunate enough to be standing on top, we will take into account your descent advice. Now we just need some high pressure! John

I'm trying to think of something to do the weekend of July 8-10 and wonder about the N. Face routes on Spider (1972 Kloke/Tindall route, for example). Does anyone have beta on (i) whether Cache Col is heavily corniced now, (ii) how best to get off of Spider to return to Cache Col/Cascade Pass, and (iii) whether the routes are worth the effort? I recall Matt P. and Big Jim Nelson reporting years ago that in September the climbing was cool on the Kloke/Tindall route but the descent was not fun. But that was a different time of year. I also know these routes have been skied in the winter/spring. Anyone know anything that might apply to this time of year with so much snow still on the ground? Thanks! John Sharp

Kyle if I understand what this party did, you can go over the ridge from the lake side. Doug Walker and I did it in 2000 by heading up-slope more or less at the end of the lake as I recall. You go over the ridge (still trees where we crossed), down the other side to the bottom of the face, then pick your line to go up the face. It was fun. We merged with the top of the NBC gully then took the standard path from there. Is this the north face route? Hope all is good over there. John Sharp

Do you think Tiger Woods ever drove AROUND a ho?

I second much of what is said here, especially in the first two paragraphs of actual route description. We descended this path on Friday after ascending to the climber's left on a parallel rib this past Wednesday. The approach described here is better than what we went up because you avoid a good set of cliff bands beginning at around 4,700'. Getting up through these cliff bands was not so bad, but getting down them could be a bitch. Worth noting is that, when the snow is gone, there is considerably more trail above 4,800' than we expected to find. Once you hit the above-mentioned mossy cliff band (I had it at about 4,500' coming down), you can bear right and parallel what is now a mostly dry, rocky stream bed for about 250' OR actually get in the stream bed as we did coming down. From the point where you exit the stream bed and move to the climber's right, a pretty good trail will lead you up and then back left and up to a flat spot that is at 5,250' by my altimeter. You'll know you're there because someone cut some pretty big trees leaving stumps. Odd. From there, a good climber's trail takes you all the way up to the ridge where the real work begins. Follow Nelson from that point on. We did not summit Challenger or even quite get to Eiley Lake as a storm with rain, snow and thunder pounded us beginning Thursday mid-day and continued through the night leaving 2" of snow at 6,200' and no visibility. We camped at a tarn at 6,200' and hunkered down. Late on Friday morning, seeing no relief in sight, we "tarned around." Totally soaked. We made it to the boat ramp on Friday night and finished off the last of the Jack Daniels. PM me if you want more detail. Manacus is absolutely right about the scale of the area. To us this seemed a more significant/difficult approach and peak to reach than Fury via Access Creek/Luna Col. John Sharp P.S. Has anyone noticed than a particular male ranger at Marblemount bears an uncanny resemblance to Kenny G. with a haircut?

There are some nice ski tracks up there -- evidence of the N. Ridge hard people making a stylin' descent. The bear tracks may have disappeared by now, however. =;-)

Fabulous pictures. Looks like a solid route Richard and Chris. Not 45 anymore indeed! You are still years away from the "Scooter Store."

Richard aren't you a little old to be doing this shit? Sharp

Great job Tom and Steph. Sounds like you had much more fun than Jim Nelson, Bob Davis and I had in 1999 on the 1957 route, which we tried to do in a day and were overdue. I also think it's great that the name "Doug's Direct" stuck to the ridge crossing that Doug Walker insisted we take when he and I were going to the East Ridge some years later. It really is easier than Gunsight notch. Congrats to you both for climbing J'Berg in fine form!

Way to go Mr. Softy. It's all about old age and trickery, isn't it? That route looks exposed but at least the rock is bad. Sharp

Awesome effort Donn and Jeff. You make it look easy. Old age and trickery? John Sharp

Hey Bronco: Ever since you posted the picture of me below the summit I have fallen out of my desk chair, to the left, six times. I don't know what is going on but I need a beer and some Advil! John

Now that is radical!

Bronco and I are working on posting additional pictures . . . .

Hah! It's all part of the sandbagging routine noted by Kyle Flick elsewhere. No, seriously, the back issues are resolved for now so I'm trying to get out here and there as time (and a very generous wife) allows. Bronco and I had a fine time and would recommend the route to anyone who likes a good snow climb. The notch we took to get onto the Boston Glacier beats Sharkfin Col -- I've used it twice and it is easy.

Hey Kyle -- didn't they teach us to sandbag in law school? I'll track you down to catch up. My new e-mail is john@johnmsharp.com and the website is www.johnmsharp.com. Later! Juan

Man did I really say that Jason? What a chicken I am. I do have a picture of you on my gear room wall leading the cruxy block move on the north side. Such a gentleman you were. Your pal Juan

Depending on the forecast, I may try one of the N. Face routes on Buckner this Friday/Saturday, June 25-26. Would be happy to have experienced company. I'll drive. Leave early Friday a.m. and camp at Sahale moraine camp; be home late Saturday night. Ping me at john@johnmsharp.com if interested.

I climbed the route in the middle of May (May 13?) on what was one of the first warm days. Stuff was coming down all over the place but nothing significant in the gully. The trench was forming and offered the best climbing, but you have to keep an eye out. Once out on the upper face, you are home free except for some deep loose snow up high (probably consolidated now). That was my fourth time up the route (second solo) and I have never seen a significant slide come from the upper rocks, but it sounds like your decision was a good one given the recent snow followed by warm temps. You should go back and get it this weekend. It's a great spring/early summer snow climb. If the couloir is still continuous, consider leaving the rock gear at home.