Pete_H

Nice. Sounds like a good resource.

That climbs not so great.

Getting to GITM from Stuart Lake wouldn't be too bad but I think you'd want at least some l/w crampons to cross Stuart Glacier. You'd probably also be better off camping closer to the peak, like on the Sherpa or Ice Cliff Glacier moraine. Anything on CBR / Colchuck / D-Tail isn't all that close to Stuart Lake or "the Stuart Zone." Well, far enough anyway that you'd want to base camp closer to Colchuck Lake. I haven't done GITM yet but from what I understand its still a bit dirty. If you're looking for clean granite, I might consider W Face CBR and Acid Baby or Valkyrie on Enchantment Peak near Asgard Pass. Its not Stuart but logistically a lot easier and close together.

Don't haul its only 5.9-

In the 90's the rumor was that a famous french sport climber would make his girlfriend carry his pack up the hill to the crag so he wouldn't develop more leg muscle. I've tried to convince my wife she needs to carry my pack for the same reason but its never worked.

This seems to be a superior way to descend NEWS, which I'll use in the future. Perhaps the old anchors in the gully should just be removed to allay the concerns over the proliferation of fixed hardware.

If you're looking for the aid experience why not go for Thin Red Line instead of Lib Crack? Then you'll have to wear those fruity and painful rock dancin' shoes even less.

British dudes sure like carrying on about their cock'n balls

A friend in need is a friend indeed.

Id try the Torment Forbidden Traverse instead of just Forbidden. Forbidden by itself is pretty short, but good.

Awesome. I think you'll like it there. The Mission Mountains are pretty big and wild. Lots of Grizzlies. I climbed at Lake Kukanuska / Stone Hill once and remember it being pretty fun.

Looks like some fun pitches. What did you think of the route quality in general? Nice job, btw!

Cool. Hadn't heard of anyone going back there for a while. The rock on Grainger definitely looks good but, like you said, a lot of approach for not as much climbing.

At any rate, I just remembered I have an old Montana climbing guide I could lend you if you want. Its got instructions for the Blodgett standards and I think a long 5.7ish route in Mill Creek.

Climbing in Blodgett is south facing and I would think rather warm this time of year. The standard moderate is South Face of Shoshone Spire, which is good. Start climbing at the tree, 5.7 - 5.9 climbing leads to the top.

Snaffle Kong

You complain that no one takes you seriously, but when someone does you claim its spray. I provided the best argument I've heard (refutable perhaps, but rooted in policy not religion) against gay marriage and you failed again to provide any form of cogent response. That's why most people here find you boorish, dull, and a bit mentally delayed.

What's next? Make it legal to marry your cousin? Your sibling? Have to draw the line somewhere.

If you want to ski volcanos and do ski mounaineering, weight's a bigger factor than if you want a slack country setup. I prefer fatter, lighter skis, but there's definitely a performance penalty in saving weight.

I'd look at Atomic and Voile skis for good all-around affordable boards. Backcountry magazine's gear guide is a good resource; as is Lou Dawson's wildsnow.com.

Looks fun. Nice job.

I'm curious, what was your #1 worse Cascades approach? Western Southern Pickets. Kind of similar to Bear, but maybe a bit longer.

2nd worse approach ive done in the cascades. Get ready for the Vietnam tunnel simulator!

Thats why its always good to climb with a pocket knife.

Yup that was weird. Windows started rattling and everything. Was wondering if anyone was out climbing.