LostCamKenny

To add to this - the autoblocking devices seem to lock up pretty easily, even if the rope is newer and more supple than an old rope. I put a second biner through the device to keep it from locking up as easily (here come the naysayers!!!) and I haven't had a problem even with a rope as stiff as a cable, and Jim's rope is nearly that! And no, the xtra biner hasn't kept the device from operating in this mode safely!

'stache jam????

Oh, that's just hot! How bout handfulls of slings for pom poms?

Nice, though I have to tell you this: Quit "Dreamin" and come to Beacon! And don't wear your kilt like you did the last time you stood atop tha rawk!

Nice view once the clouds were gone, yeah? I'm guessing that you weren't bombarded with other climbers on the route the way one would if you were on the DC... What was the total time on the mountain?

You guys should have mooned the route, too

Yeah, right. Sport climbers don't get those kind of badges...

more like a .5

I second that one... I love it when dave sprays! the story-telling process is an epic in itself

heeheehee... so is wet granite with vibram soles

Good to see that someone still gets over to that side of the mountain - looks real remote and f**king awesome!

Have you been paying attention to anything on this zany site?!?

Oh it was plenty exciting! I knew the ropes would reach since we dropped the tagline before I started to clean P2... The knot in the main line halfway down did provide a bit of the excitement, though. Luckily I saw it with enough rope to do a few leg wraps to free it up! Then I had to untangle the tag line from the tree it landed in closer to the bottom... Nearly epic descent!

Ivan forgot to mention that my headlamp went dead when I reached the belay after jugging and cleaning the 2nd pitch - thus the rappel into the darkness, and then the free-hanging darkness, got really, really freaky! I almost needed to stop and cry when I reached the top roof of the arena...

I was having a bad day until I read these latest posts... Thanks y'all! Someone pass the beernuts, please... and don't start round 3 until I get another Hamms!

THe benefits of such a practice cannot be understated...

Thanks for the pics - very nice!

Nice pics... looks like the weather was pretty nice up there.

The sleeping bag is designed to take your body heat and use that to warm the space inside - pretty common knowledge, I'm sure. By wearing too much to sleep you are doing two things (that I see): 1. Your body heat has much more to go through in order to get in between you and the bag, and 2. when your body heat does finally heat up the inside of the bag you will be wearing these extra layers that will make you even warmer and then the need to shed these layers will probably result. My advice: Let the bag do its job. Wear a base layer to sleep (i.e. long johns and a poly long-sleeved top, and a beanie) and see if that doesn't keep you warm enough. This is what I wear and I have never had a problem being too hot or too cold at altitude. Keep in mind, though, that people can react differently to the same conditions. The denali jacket was probably overkill. If you are a bit chilly when you first get all the way in your bag with just a base layer on, wait for a few minutes... your body heat hasn't warmed the space up yet. Once it does you should be ok. I'm not sure how attached you are to your down bag, but a synthetic bag of equal temp rating should keep you just as warm (even when soaked with sweat, water, beer, whatever). And the weight difference isn't all that noticable. Another little tip for sleeping/keeping warm at altitude: Eat something before you go to sleep - this keeps your metabolism going for a while, and thus your body is generating heat longer.

Yeah, so take that...!

clove both bolts and then clip your PAS to on of them - if you are multipitching. OR... Use one PAS and the rope cloved to the anchor. When I first started I had 2 PAS's, but that means that you have an extra biner clipped to your gear loop. 1 PAS is sufficient if you are cloving the rope too. But its what you are comfortable with... don't do it if you are not comfortable with it!

Agreed!

What an epic!!! Glad you were able to tell the tale.... looking forward to seeing the pics - no rush of course. Heal fast!

God, ain't that the truth!