
LostCamKenny
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Everything posted by LostCamKenny
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For several years I have been using a mismatched pair of tools - no big deal, since they worked. But I've decided that it is time that I look for a mate to one of them and make a pair and I am too cheap to go buy a shiny new pair(read:poor). My hammer is a BD Shrike and my adze is an older(emphasis on older) BD Black Prophet that isn't even made anymore(and, thus, BD doesn't stock parts for anymore). What I am looking for is a Shrike with an adze OR a prophet with a hammer. Depending on the number of responses (or the amount of info i receive) I might even consider buying both and having two sets of tools. I have spoken to a fabricator who can fashion picks for me if all I could find were the prophet, but I'd prefer to find an Shrike with an adze. I reside in the Baja Washington region (Portland) and thus am not able to view anything in person unless it is local for me... pictures are essential! If you can help please speak up! I've attached pics of what I have to help in finding a mate for one of them... Thanks!
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Tell it again?! Follow along and lets do the Homey the Clown song first. LOL! Ok, pull up a chair little childrens and Homeys got a story---> [video:youtube] Homey don't play dat...
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Oh boy... I thought you saved that stuff for bivys and long approaches? RIP, Doc!
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What makes for a "great bolt climb"? Oh i dunno bill... is ryhthm method one? Could you tell us all the story of that one????
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ah ha, teach me to say something before i finish researching it... actually the truth be known, the BD's .5 and .75 are 97g and 116g, respectively, meaning that they outweigh their linkcam counterparts (95g and 113g, respectively - ya learn somethign new everyday), but the 1 & 2 camalots are 134 and 158 which is considerably less than 176 and 207 grams for the 1 &2 linkcams. in our game where grams add up to pounds it makes sense to go with the lightest gear possible, yeah? a case could be made for the .5 and .75 linkcams in this respect, but the difference is very small... almost unnoticable. I still renew my objection to them b/c of their many, many, many, more movign parts than the BD's (and this is fine because it is my own opinion ) and i will add that they also start at around $95!!! Aren't BD's startign at about $60 these days? For those of you who like the OP's over the BD's, great - At least you're covering your asses somehow The fewer accidents I have to read about the better!
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... I'm actually really surprized at the number of climbers that i run into who actually love those things There are so many moving parts - more so than most other cams - and this is the main weakness in cams, in general. The more moving parts you have the more possible fail points. I know climbers with doubles of all of them and they swear by them! panic pieces at best... otherwise ----> When placed properly, link cams are plenty strong. As Dru has demonstrated, any brand cam placed in the back of a pod not in the direction of the fall can fail. YES, any cam not placed properly can fail - link cams and camalots alike. All else aside they are still not something I'd give up my camalots for, IMO. Too many moving parts, heavy... meh!
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Whew, that's lucky... Great bolt climbs are hard to find
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... I'm actually really surprized at the number of climbers that i run into who actually love those things There are so many moving parts - more so than most other cams - and this is the main weakness in cams, in general. The more moving parts you have the more possible fail points. I know climbers with doubles of all of them and they swear by them! panic pieces at best... otherwise ---->
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Totally epic - glad it didn't go too sideways on y'all!
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[TR] Burgundy Spire - North Face/Ridge (5.8) - 9/27/2009
LostCamKenny replied to Steph_Abegg's topic in North Cascades
True dat -
Labeled illustration of North Cascades
LostCamKenny replied to Steph_Abegg's topic in Climber's Board
It might look good as a 18x24, too, which is another standard size.... Larger would be more preferable - for me - since this is a discussion to determine interest... that's my 2 cents -
[TR] Whitehorse Rock (Wa Pass) - Flintlock 6p 5.8
LostCamKenny replied to jordansahls's topic in North Cascades
That just looks like a great time! -
amazing how life can average out sometimes...
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... cutting excess pack strap webbing is the next stage of this affliction. when you can't find any more ways to lighten ur rack then you turn to the real absurd stuff
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Labeled illustration of North Cascades
LostCamKenny replied to Steph_Abegg's topic in Climber's Board
how many have to be interested before its decided to make them in numbers? more importantly, what's it gonna cost? how would you go about distribution? how large u thinkin on blowin it up? all these questions... so to bogg ya down with them right before school starts... -
Beacon Rock - Cleaning on South East Corner?
LostCamKenny replied to Plaidman's topic in Rock Climbing Forum
Thats a great view of the slab! -
[TR] A Summer Place - Mount Rainier National Park 9/30/2009
LostCamKenny replied to Fairweather's topic in Mount Rainier NP
You had some beautiful scenery... -
[TR] Dragontail Peak - Serpentine Arete 9/25/2009
LostCamKenny replied to rocky_joe's topic in Alpine Lakes
sounds technical... -
[TR] Slippery Slab Tower - West Face 9/22/2009
LostCamKenny replied to Dallas kloke's topic in Rock Climbing Forum
Trail 2000, meaning the PCT? Is that the same Slippery Slab Tower? -
It was there when Dave and I did our night mission last week, so this is real recent... had to be like joe said - someone musta yarded on it. man, i bet they were surprized at the result
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Beacon Rock - Cleaning on South East Corner?
LostCamKenny replied to Plaidman's topic in Rock Climbing Forum
Yeah... they are a hazard to the falcons - better get rid of em before they have some terrible effect on the chicks! -
Beacon Rock - Cleaning on South East Corner?
LostCamKenny replied to Plaidman's topic in Rock Climbing Forum
btw, scott, that's a great pic i almost didnt recognize it from that angle!