LostCamKenny

I think I was the only one doing either - ivan was probably laughing in his head at my antics to get up what he practically waltzed up. And he says he can't free climb very well... well enough, I say! No doubt he will let everyone in on my epic lead of the chimney on town crier two days earlier once he writes his TR. But as always ivan has an amusing way of telling a tale of a trip... I look forward to seeing it, too

Nice TR... well put together and very complete. I also liked the route overlays and the panoramic shot of the range! Whatever the names are, whatever the grades are... nice job!

So taping is a regional thing, huh? What is the status quo for our region?

Oh yeah... ivan and i made a half-assed attempt at the north peak of mt index (TR yet to come when ivan has the time and I give him my pics), though it was only half-assed because he had me following him - talus hopping, bushwacking on low angle slabs while free-soloing them: probably just the upper end of 4th class, but when you're unroped even halfway steep stuff can seem like mid 5th class! I won't give away the TR though since I'm sure ivan's will be full of the usual spice and wine

I love it when threads go sideways... This shit is great!

can't be too far off

outstanding! Keep 'em honest!

This seems like a pretty powerful index of reasons not to use one, especially when a guide or a reverso can handle the job(s)!

Awww, c'mon is it that bitter between you two?

Those are some excellent nature and wildlife shots - there are college textbook writers that would pay $$$ (read: not much) for them - the wildlife shots, at least. But, still, I enjoyed looking at them! It's a great change from ass shots, tarps laid out and strewn with gear, and countless pics of routes that others have done and reported on hundreds of times! Thanks!!!

Rudy, you're 703 days late commenting on this thread (perhaps I am too). Isn't it possible that kevbone has changed?

The only thing, here, is that you lose the autoblocking ability of the device by belaying off your harness... but certain situations require very different techniques.

I guess I don't pay attention enuf, but the only "pink point" I'm aware of is the one on a female climber (or any other woman, for that matter). What the fuck does it mean here?

and like them, best done drunk ...and stoned!

That looks exciting... wow! How was it in winter during the whiteout - besides white?

Whatever... that's a dream come true for me! ...

Hmmmm... this sounds familiar - a lot like something I did just a few days ago, except time kept us from the summit. Nice pics and TR! Alpine bushwacking... ain't it fun?

Well done - 50% chance? Aren't you glad you went - in spite of the hike out in the dark?

Beacon at night just isn't the same as it is during the day. I thought it would be really super exciting, but it was kinda mellow. During the daylight you can see your exposure and position, making for some exciting moves (if you haven't done the route over and over again). I thought that climbing under a shroud of darkness would add an extra element of excitement, but it didn't. In fact, since I couldn't see straight down the SE face when I came off the slab the move was much less satisfying. I'm sure that YW would yield a similar experience under these conditions - of course I have no intention of climbing again until friday afternoon so I don't even know why I'm posting on this thread, except that it said "beacon." But don't let me be a downer - its still really fun! Someone should go with him - of course Joe will do it even if no one else goes...

but if a team is going to simul-climb they must decide on that before AA starts climbing. It is worth mentioning that the belay during simul-climbing is a dynamic(running)belay, meaning that if either climber falls then the other climber becomes the belay - actually more of a counterweight.

I'm in complete agreement with cbs... as the angle of the climb decreases so does the comfort of the stance required to belay in that way. On a slab with the guide I belay off my harness with the rope running through a directional piece so the weight doesn't come directly on me.

It hurt to wear the one I had on

no but we were nursing hangovers sunday morning after a parking-lot pow-wow saturday night...

Goin up Young Warriors, Beacon Start of the crux pitch of the SE Corner, Beacon

wow, she's f*%ked up!