LostCamKenny

Trip: Beacon Rocks... Yes, it does! - Climbin high with the correct bird - Right Gull Date: 9/18/2009 Trip Report: So JP called me up and asked if I was going to be available for a climb on friday. "Sure, but I have to work at 1pm - as usual - so I have to be rollin out of the parking lot by 12:30," is my normal response when someone asks if I can get out in the AM, and so it was, also, to JP. I had actually bivy'd up on the rock the night before after rappeling in, so when I woke up in the morning to the sun coming up over the oregon side of the gorge I made 4 quick rappels down to Snag ledge and tossed JP (who was waiting at the base) an end of the rope. When he got up to me then the fun began. The first time I led this route I took far more than I really needed - I guess I did the same this time too, but it was trimmed down considerably from the first time. I practically never used any of the larger cams that I brought, opting to use the hexes instead The big cams cam in handy, but not til later on the route. It was kinda windy on friday, so I decided to break the route up into three pitches. This way JP and I could always be in earshot - or so we thought (more on that later). The first pitch starts with an airy traverse over two voids that look down the rock to the base. Neither void is truly large or gaping (maybe the first one), but they are both attention-grabbing if you are doing them for the first time, as JP was. Once over the second void it was time to start up the hand crack, which I tried to make quick work of. I didn't place more than 3 or 4 pieces (can't remember now) in this corner, but it was much more secure-feeling than the first time I did it so I didn't mind the small runouts I had. When I got to the top of the pointed pillar I threw in a small offset nut and then lunged for the next pillar over where there was a belay. I brought JP up to here. The second pitch started off with some aid off two pins. Since I can't climb .10a and didn't have the time to try, fall, flail and then aid it, this seemed like the appropriate course of action for P2. Once I was above them I got up to the next hand crack and made a mix of free and aid moves to gain the top - I sewed this section up and didn't mind! Then I traversed about 12-15 feet to the shared belay with Bluebird and put JP on for the follow. JP said he tried the .10a moves and then just moved on for the sake of time... At the shared belay station we took a quick break, listened to some Metalica on the tunebox and trimmed the thorny bushes back so they wouldn't tear up your ankles anymore as you stood there belaying. I also recoved a biner left by the last party to climb the route, but I knew who it belonged to so it wasn't booty, but rather, made for a good laugh I re-racked I made an effort to get moving again. Pitch 3 goes up a very fine crack that I can understand if only a few have a likeing for. The reason I like it: chockstones - two of em - followed by a bomber gold camalot! After gettin out of this thing I went up between the trees and then left up a series of higher and higher platforms until I was coming up through the trees on grassy ledges. When I got there the wind was blowing (not terribly hard) just hard enought that JP couldn't hear me when I yelled "off belay." Grabbing the rope I started tugging as hard as I could and pretty soon I was pullin the rope up uninhibited. The to get JP moving I had to pull on him to let him know he was on belay - this worked out so well I can't understand why it could ever get confusing Anyway, JP followed in fine fashion and we were both on grassy ledges ready to continue on. I left my alpine pack at my bivy spot this mornig and decided that I'd just collect it on the way out, so JP belayed me to go and get it, and then we made our way to the trail via some beautiful rock and some fine exposure on a ridge - aaahhhhhhhh! Props to JP - a fine job cleaning up my messes on each pitch, he did! The view - taken on lead - from the middle of the corner on pitch one JP comin up to the first of the two pillars - and then to the belay Lookin up P1 Not much room here, but just enough to be comfy The flailing hasn't started yet, as I still look fairly calm Fifi - readily available JP clowning around with the self shot In it with the chockstones Lookin up the first part of P3 The rest of the route to the top has so much already said about it so I won't bore the masses any longer (too late, if you made it this far). Gear Notes: Lots of shit - most of it I didn't use/need Approach Notes: Horrendous - don't even bother coming out

Trip: Beacon - Date: 9/21/2009 Trip Report: It seems like I have been a tour guide for the SE Corner this year and this past thursday I was able to help yet another promising climber make it up this storied, classic route. DL has been climbing a bit over a year, he says, though he doesn't climb like it. He followed me with confidence and never seemed to let the tricky moves or the exposure when coming off the slab get to him. His attitude was never unsure and he was great to hang out with - perfect mix for a climbing partner. We did three pitches up to grassy ledges and then took a break before - as the Jeffersons used to say - movin on up. When we topped out at the trail it was nearly 12:30 and I had to jog to get to work in time... i did 75 to get there but it was worth it to indoctrinate another to the joy of Beacon! DL preparing to traverse to the bottom of the slab Trying to figure out how to unsling the tree... Lovin the top of the slab! Almost to tree ledge... Following P3 Cleaning the last gear on the route It's a happy DL! Gear Notes: couple a nuts, couple a cams, couple a slings... meh Approach Notes: horrendous - don't bother coming out

the only one I was thinking should be used is SNAFU, but FUBAR is good too!

I'm waiting til you quit climbing to do anything about it... then you're out of the way

You're not in the military anymore, dude... you can stop using the silly acronyms, now!

No you're not... and neither is Shapp. If you were you'd have left it alone! This is at least shapp's 2nd time hijacking a TR about this place because of his distaste for that guide (he did it to mine, too - thanks jackass!) I'm done with this thread because it is only going to further degrade WS's TR, when all his trip was was an effort to avoid crappy weather here in the valley. Whether or not the falcon guide was done by the right people or not makes no difference anymore - what's done is done and the only thing to do now is accept the fact that someone got it wrong. If you really want to be proactive then go out and make your own guide - sounds like with the amount of ranting going on here that there are actually some climbers who know something abnout the place. Maybe they should collaborate and put together a quality guide that has information correct and honest - that would certainly be better than ranting about it here! Again, nice job Colin!

Oh yeah, nice work guys! That'll give me and scott somethign to check out when we get on GZ later in the fall...

I'm sorry, fixed pro application? Is there really such a thing? Huh... does my cam need to be documented since it is now a permenant fixture on the 2nd pitch of the corner? Screw that! Just don't tell anyone you're doing it. Better yet, DON'T POST ABOUT IT HERE!!!

You should create your own museum - that is an impressive collection! Ken Burns should contact you if he ever decides to do a documentary/series on mountaineering in North America! Very cool to look at the changing times in technology that is preserved in the (do I dare call them this) artifacts that you have. Thanks for sharing!!!

Good on ya for throwing this out there before you actually did something to the hangers, but seriously, I woulda straightened them there - but I carry a wrench already. Still, your point about a draw getting moved around to where it could be backclipped seems plenty valid. Straighten em, I say!

Well, apparantly, anyone who uses the shoddy guide or defends ones trip or anothers trip over there is an ignorant westsider. Shapps jealous that the jesus freaks that made the crappy guide got to it before he could - that's what it sounds like to me I say, keep going over there and keep climbing it using the wrong names and everything! Sound as much like an ignorant westsider as you can so that shapp will be able to educate everyone doing it as though he is the resident expert! Climbing is climbing and - to me, maybe I'm wrong - it matters not how you get your beta or from what source, just as long as you get back to give beta to someone else. Good on ya , WageSlave! If ya ever wanna go back let me know - I'll ride along!

Spoken like a true young warrior...

She still looks like a 12-year-old... a very well developed 12-year-old.

I love this line!

Do doubt, huh?

perhaps... but you, sir, are an asshole

So i guess a link up of the nose and half-dome in a day is out of the question, now?

Only about 5 min from home for me, na nan a na na na. I sleep in my car at the parkign lot so both of you take that!

You better grab yourself a partner and just go out there before you embarrass yourself any further on this thread! That's all I have to say.. about that!

How amusing... a trip report on one website with a pic and a link to another website for the actual trip report. Nice TR on summitpost.

... then send the F-ing authors your rant and don't piss on the TR here because your pissed that they got it wrong - so what! at least it is getting climbed - this obscure shit probably has seen fewer ascents than some of pdx's local crags have. i understand your point is to educate others but do it off the thread and don't knock 'em just because they used a guidebook that had it wrong... it'll be another few years before anyone else goes to climb it in the summer again anyway...

I drove over there for it and i didn't do it because i had the guidebook, bill! I did it because it was granite, and granite in oregon, and climbable granite in oregon at that. where else in oregon do get granite that you can climb? tell me and i'll go there... the guide just helped the approach to the slabs. good job guys! I was over there in early july and had a blast on the dome, but there was too much snow to reach the slabs that you guys were on. great pics. did you guys go look at gunsight dome at all?

I'm curious - how would tape help french free technique?

Anything that involves pain, suffering, complaining, or general epic behavior always makes for a great read... so long as the subjects all live