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Everything posted by t_rutl

  1. after the ice step we stayed on the ridge for a few hundred meters (of walking, not elev) until it backed off to ~35 degrees or less then broke climbers right. there was a small (5-10 meter) step of 50 degree snow that landed us on the plateau.
  2. love the n. ridge, jealous of your outing
  3. American Alpine Institute

    nothing but good things to say about their instructional courses. also have several friends who have guided for them and still do from time to time and they enjoyed working with/for AAI.
  4. SEWS and Avy

    Deciding a no go on the Coleman Headwall due a lovely avy forcast for the weekend, I'm tossing around the idea of taking a buddy up SEWS (couloir and/or the arete) for an intro "alpine" outing as an alternative to cragging. Having never climbed at WA Pass yet, is the Blue Lake TH approach threatened by slide terrain like the hairpin side? Thanks in advance. Troy
  5. SEWS and Avy

    thanks gentlemen. thats the info i'm looking for! plan is a first light start up the couloir. if it's a post hole mess we'll bag it and head up the arete. if solid enough, up, down, then the arete. mark - NWAC will do "special anouncements" as they see fit. there happens to be one up right now, but also just having general knowledge of past, present and future conditions goes a long way in making your own generalized assesment. Past - a fair amount of recent snow Present - consideraby high freezing level Future - the same that calls for a spring avy cycle especially on terrian that hasnt shed yet. ie, north facing aspects and higher elev's
  6. Light summer belay/overnight jacket

    Patagucci's Nano will be getting a full zip and a hood late this summer/fall. Other than that I like the MB Thermawrap.
  7. HD Video / Camera or Flip?

    newest GoPro solved many of the prev. gen nuances. - 16GB card gives you 4hrs, 32GB 8hrs (720p @ 30fps) so no worries about wasted memory. - external LCD coming soon, attaches to back. $50-$60 option. - yes, charges via USB but you can by a car or wall USB adapter for $10 and charge anywhere. - spare batteries (OEM)are $20. plus external extra batt pack available soon. - lost some batt life in the cold but still held up fine in -5 degree temps up the full 300M of Mean Grean in Cody. maybe 1.5hrs of vs. the advertised 2.25hrs. - fully usable under water. definately not for everybody but well worth looking at and I think is sweet. check it out at REI, if it sucks, take it back!
  8. HD Video / Camera or Flip?

    and if you go with a camera, consider the Panasonic LX3. Shoots amazing photos and even in RAW format. Also shoots 720p video.
  9. HD Video / Camera or Flip?

    GoPro HD Hero all the way. Full 1080p @ 30fps if you want it. Use mine in 720. Compact, light and bombproof. Also waterproof to 180ft. Spare parts, batts and accesories are very resonably priced. Numerable ways to mount it. Sample footage and more @ http://www.goprocamera.com/ Cons: no zoom and since its wide angle you have some fisheye effect in close quarters. Other pro: Can be purchased at REI and Backcountry.com so you have their "Unconditional Satisfaction Guarantee"
  10. Mammut Pro Cord 5mm as a cordelette??

    thanks for the info. i've always used nylon for tied coredelette. but also use the Mammut 240cm Dyneema Contact Sling. would you expect to see the same issues there?
  11. Mammut Pro Cord 5mm as a cordelette??

    i'd like to read up on that...any links to some of the info D?
  12. Climbing boots for Patagonia

    i like my extreme gtx's a lot as well. slogged up rainier during the summer and climbed -5 degree cody ice in the winter both in them. my feet run cold so the -5 days gave me chilly toes but nothing that wasnt manageable.
  13. [TR] Into the Mountains

    atta kid J!
  14. [TR] Hyalite - The Days of Jack 3/25/2010

    nice work J! he'll be sending 5's in his Pampers...
  15. Alpinist 30

    Wayne in the spotlight
  16. Osprey Mutant Pack

    agreed...i have the 50 light, good features, carries heavy loads fanstastic and is comfy but everytime i look up and my helmet hits the back of the frame sticking up killing my field of view...i want to burn the fawking thing...other than that its great
  17. Ice, Rock and AT Ski gear for Sale

    PM on 0.5 C4
  18. Paul Bailey accident

    Yeah, I read that he took it to the face from an overhanging rock which would explain things...I just didn't know if the brain trauma was amplified from an impact that could have been lessened from some head gear. Not questioning his choice to wear or not. Just wondering if it was one of those instances where bad luck sticks it to ya despite your best efforts. Thank you for the insight.
  19. Paul Bailey accident

    I never met Paul but hope his recovery continues to progress and progress quickly. Question for you Hannah (or anyone that might know), was he wearing a helmet when he fell? He seems to have sustained pretty severe trauma and am wondering if it happened despite using a helmet. Thanks and best wishes to Paul.
  20. Kayland MXT w/eVent Liner $60 shipped, $50 local pickup. I live north of Marysville, work in Mount Vernon. Size: Mens 11.5 US (Very true to street shoe size. I wear 44.5-45 Sportiva's) Worn maybe a dozen times and in very good condition 7 outa 10. Has an eVent liner, stiff sole with rear crampon welt but hike well. Great 3 seson boot for snow, rock and scree. Been up Baker, trips in the Eldorado Icecap, Boston Bason (Sahale, Forbidden). I like the boot but just doesn't fit my feet right. I'd say the fit is somewhere between your average Sportiva and Scarpa Kaylands Site: http://us.kayland.com/details.php?id=38 Scarpa Spectro Climbing Shoes $50 shipped, $45 local pickup. Size: 43.5 EU Worn only a couple times. Thought I could suffer through them but no dice. Super agressive and nice shoe. Would love to keep them but they need to be at least a half size bigger for me. Alpinist Review Rock & Ice Review Moosejaw Description Little chalk on them but no wear
  21. NEW UPDATE Kayland MXT's: SOLD Scarpa Spectro's: SOLD Cycling Jersey's and Shorts: SOLD Kayland Apex XT's: SOLD OP Biners: SOLD Women's PreCip: Available PM if interested in the jacket. Color looks like:
  22. How much does it weigh? ahhh...sorry i missed this...it's listed at 12oz
  23. Osprey Mutant Pack

    Same thing. Bought the Mutant and promply returned it for the Varient 37. Haven't been happier with a pack.
  24. Camping and access to lower Coleman Glacier?

    yeah...the camp in the woods off h-trope...Murkwood as it is called...quick jaunt onto the seracs from below or head up onto the glacier...running water close by as the summer progresses