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t_rutl

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Everything posted by t_rutl

  1. wow did that thing melt out quick... well done
  2. yeah...something back in 1776 was along those lines too...
  3. gotcha...the original link ran to the Index article which was news to me but props to Hanman and his crew tho!
  4. hmmm...i love my Dragonfly's?? but they see ice or glacier travel
  5. lol...yeah that tends to happen with addictions... you'll like the rope...did you get the one with the dry cover?
  6. wonder when they'll put the fundraising together... be a huge if this gets pulled off
  7. i'd save the dough and grab the Beal...especially if it's prime function is top-rope duty and you're looking to build a rack...i have the 70m version and it's a good rope...not as limber as my Mammuts or Petzls but those were pushing double the cost...that and 65g/m beats 70g/m for alpine use...just make sure its got the dry cover
  8. are you talking Kayak Point? has a large pier there too? i'm from up this way and that's all i can think of...it's a pretty popular park
  9. www.summitpost.org tons of good beta
  10. while mind spinning exposure or a sketchy hold aren't heart warming...its the objective hazards that haunt you... those two are studs and will be missed
  11. i'm going to second the notion for a Hilleberg and prefer the Nallo GT. also check out the GoLite Valhalla 2+ ( http://www.golite.com/Product/proddetail.aspx?p=SH6137&s=1 )...very light and i really enjoy the tent...i'm a little over 6' 3" so need a roommy tent and the GoLite has the length to it...i find it similar to the BD stuff and you could cram a 3rd in should you need to...plus i like the dual vestibules
  12. airtech evo good choice my man! pair it with a Grivel Matrix Light Hammer and you're solid and not even weighted down!! both have a good swing are great for plunging and both about 500 grams of no frills climbing bliss
  13. Petzl Altios comfy, light and durable http://www.petzl.com/us/outdoor/verticality/helmets/mountaineering-and-climbing-helmets/altios
  14. brilliant! i especially like the shot of the axe head in the alpenglow
  15. AND completed the London Marathon...that dude's a stud hands down...
  16. 15 Deg will get you through your spring, summer, fall and some winter mountaineering here in the Cascades no prob...it'll work for backpacking but be quite warm for sure...a 30 deg would be better and lighter...for a Denali endevaur or higher altitude winter pursuits the 0 would get your through but in my opinion a -20 deg would be better...not much more weight and will get you through more situations...if those are going to be fewer and farther between than a backpacking trip...i'd keep the 15 degree and sell/trade the 0 for a 30...buy the -20 down the road should you need it!!
  17. Well done! Eldorado is a beaut!
  18. that slide area got the heart pumping more than the summit...you know that giant slab that peeled off? we were a few hours behind that when it happened on Memorial Day... smart move my man and well done...the weather is looking to chill a bit so giver hell again in week or two!!
  19. RMI, American Alpine Institute, Alpine Ascents, Mountain Madness...they all have some great courses and you will NOT regret taking one...I did AAI's (American Alpine Institute) 3 Day Glacier Skills/Crevasse course as the first thing when I started out and was prob the best thing I did...if the foundation aint built right the rest will be shakey... but yes...we'll see you on the trail!!
  20. t_rutl

    Glacier Travel

    from Minus 148 (first winter ascent of Denali)...good book and always worth learning from other mistakes!! - "The bareheaded Frenchman came bouncing alone and unroped with a big grin on his face...After all, Farine had more experience on glaciers than either of them had." - "Where he had expected to see Farine there was only an empty glacier." - "There was no movement of pupils; no reaction. There was no pulse. The face was purplish. George pronounced him dead." While roping up can be a nuisance sometimes it's good not to get complacent...even if you you travel glaciers a thousand and one times never breaking through or falling it only takes once...
  21. Eldorado, Klawatti, Sahale, Boston...that whole area is great late season Baker & Shuksan would be fine adventures as well that time of year...just be solid on your glacier travel!! Even Adams would get you up high...long approach but Glacier would be easier to get to that time of year as well. Enjoy!
  22. they're back??? wow...i gave up on ever seeing an issue again brilliant!
  23. http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=47261 there are a few links out there...it was through the yellow band for fixed lines
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