stevetimetravlr

So no one knows what that route is on the west face that has 5 bolts on it??? Looks stellar.

Thats exactly what I did with the rope, but you have to kind of tiptoe around so you don't get your shoes wet.

Sorry I missed ya Ivan! in the evening we were looking at the west face area where your route goes up, and were not sure of the start exactly as we would like to do it. Also, does anyone know the specs on the route on the West face that is bolted with at least 5 bolts? The bolts look like new stainless and the climb looks pretty burly and looks like it takes gear up a flake crack to get to the first clip.

I was there yesterday and took one of my employees up Young Warriors. Saw Joseph on the trail as we headed back up to meet Rick when he came off his solo. Joe said Stone Rodeo was pretty wet in places and didn't do any changes yet. YW had a big puddle at belay top of the second pitch but other then that wasn't to moist. Hoping to get out this weekend, but shooting for Leavenworth!

I called Plaid on Tuesday morn and he was trying to round up a partner while waiting for his Nose partner to show. I told him good practice would be to go solo Aid Crack on Swan Slab, 2 pitches. he left me a message later that said he got it done. The guy may just pull this whole Nose thing off! Go Plaid go!!

This ones for you Joe!

Group man-hug! Now thats funny. Instead of shaking hands next time I see ya Joe, I am going to give you a big hug! Sounds like you need one, ya teddy bear you. In fact, whenever we run into each other out there at Beacon, we all should hug each other. Sure, you'd have chalk all over your back but the world would be a happier friendlier place. Joe, I think you're on to something. I think all the boys will probably hug you from now on, even though you protest, because we can all tell, you need love too!!!

Just fucking nuts. Probably a hexcentric that is slung on a perlon sling with a small hole thru the middle.

How many teams are there, and which one do you play quarterback for Joe? or is it.....tight end?

If its locked,you can always just park right outside the gate and walk in. You can only drive in a couple hundred feet anyway. I don't think it sees much equestrian use.

dude, if i was the guy found an apparently abandoned pair of shoes, and was going to call the number but then read this thread, I wouldn't call, i would just throw them in the trash. Plop! good way to shoot yourself in the ass.

what happened on pitch 3???

Just like opening day at Beacon. They are unused to climbers, so they are squaking and sqeaking and freaking for a few days, and then they settle down. If climbers climbed on Beacon, but away from the nest out of sight to the East, it would be far more normal and less traumatic for the birds and the young ones.

Great slideshow, music, and photography. Sweet!

Are you a member of Friends of the Gorge Joseph?

Sorry Joseph. I have to call bullshit on this. As climbers, with friends like you at Beacon, we don't need more enemies. There are very good grounds for opening a section of the rock that is no where near the falcon nesting. Your constant negativity and public slanderage of the climbing community all the while coming off as a climber certainly do not contribute to this effort however. That IS one indisputable fact.

Its not gated until after hours but the equestrian corral is still there.

The route discussed earlier in the photo is on the Picnic Lunch Wall, not Gibraltar Rock. Its across the meadow from Gibraltar Rock.

I just spoke with Robbie. They are NOT closing the park at 5pm, just the entrance gates. If you are in the park, the original hours still apply. I told her that the public notice release was poorly worded and did not clearly point this out and it is going to cause allot of grief for them and also climbers if they do not clarify this issue asap. She was very pleasant and agreed and said their intention was not to limit climbing hours, simply to save on wages for the people that man the entrance gates.

Well, I think that this can be changed by many of us not only writing the contact person you listed Sherri, Kirsten at the BLM. But also writing letters/emails to the Las Vegas Chamber of Commerce and explaining to them how this is going to be a big deterent to people/climbers/families visiting Las Vegas and spending their money if they are going to close the park at 5 pm with hours of daylight left. Money talks in Vegas, and climbers and visitors to the park spend money on gas, lodging, food, entertainment, on and on. The change of policy is just more then just a little ridiculous for sure.

When they change to Fall hours, is it normally 5pm? I thought it was more like 7pm or something? or done later in the season?

After that last bolt it looks thin, whats the gear, stoppers or microcams, hope and a prayer?

Its a nice route! Thank you sir, may I have another!! The bolts look brand new. I got the name and route info. from the Rock Climbs of Central WA guide. There are some really great climbs at Banks now. I am very impressed with the area and the sticky granite. Planning on kayaking over to the Orange Wall this Fall for a few days and doing routes on that beautiful wall and surrounding terrain.

Nice job Ivan!!!

Wow, thats quite a diatribe coming from someone who professes their innocence! I wasn't pointing any finger at you Joe. I do find it strange you quote all these Yosemite routes and folk but say you don't like granite and crack climbing and don't go to Yosemite, cracks me up so to speak. Some people like momentos of the past, you don't have to. Beacon rock is a traditional climbing area. If you love things all clean and tidy, maybe Ozone is the place for ya, everything in its place, no old tat to bother with. Ivan, you funny guy you! Youre busting my nuts! Way to get it done on the Dirty Double. Now about that Arena of Terror....