stevetimetravlr

Just like opening day at Beacon. They are unused to climbers, so they are squaking and sqeaking and freaking for a few days, and then they settle down. If climbers climbed on Beacon, but away from the nest out of sight to the East, it would be far more normal and less traumatic for the birds and the young ones.

Great slideshow, music, and photography. Sweet!

Are you a member of Friends of the Gorge Joseph?

Sorry Joseph. I have to call bullshit on this. As climbers, with friends like you at Beacon, we don't need more enemies. There are very good grounds for opening a section of the rock that is no where near the falcon nesting. Your constant negativity and public slanderage of the climbing community all the while coming off as a climber certainly do not contribute to this effort however. That IS one indisputable fact.

Its not gated until after hours but the equestrian corral is still there.

The route discussed earlier in the photo is on the Picnic Lunch Wall, not Gibraltar Rock. Its across the meadow from Gibraltar Rock.

I just spoke with Robbie. They are NOT closing the park at 5pm, just the entrance gates. If you are in the park, the original hours still apply. I told her that the public notice release was poorly worded and did not clearly point this out and it is going to cause allot of grief for them and also climbers if they do not clarify this issue asap. She was very pleasant and agreed and said their intention was not to limit climbing hours, simply to save on wages for the people that man the entrance gates.

Well, I think that this can be changed by many of us not only writing the contact person you listed Sherri, Kirsten at the BLM. But also writing letters/emails to the Las Vegas Chamber of Commerce and explaining to them how this is going to be a big deterent to people/climbers/families visiting Las Vegas and spending their money if they are going to close the park at 5 pm with hours of daylight left. Money talks in Vegas, and climbers and visitors to the park spend money on gas, lodging, food, entertainment, on and on. The change of policy is just more then just a little ridiculous for sure.

When they change to Fall hours, is it normally 5pm? I thought it was more like 7pm or something? or done later in the season?

After that last bolt it looks thin, whats the gear, stoppers or microcams, hope and a prayer?

Its a nice route! Thank you sir, may I have another!! The bolts look brand new. I got the name and route info. from the Rock Climbs of Central WA guide. There are some really great climbs at Banks now. I am very impressed with the area and the sticky granite. Planning on kayaking over to the Orange Wall this Fall for a few days and doing routes on that beautiful wall and surrounding terrain.

Nice job Ivan!!!

Wow, thats quite a diatribe coming from someone who professes their innocence! I wasn't pointing any finger at you Joe. I do find it strange you quote all these Yosemite routes and folk but say you don't like granite and crack climbing and don't go to Yosemite, cracks me up so to speak. Some people like momentos of the past, you don't have to. Beacon rock is a traditional climbing area. If you love things all clean and tidy, maybe Ozone is the place for ya, everything in its place, no old tat to bother with. Ivan, you funny guy you! Youre busting my nuts! Way to get it done on the Dirty Double. Now about that Arena of Terror....

Typically happens from pulling on plastic bouldering hard. Tape it at the first sign of a hotspot or before you go if it is frequent. Has allot to do with the holds you are using,you won't get it from crimpers.

There was a old rope remnant section that was left when the new fixed line replaced the old one. It meant allot to Jim O. as part of history and somebody went up and cut it down. Seems unneccessary and wierd, what was the purpose to do that? Anyone have any ideas as to the culprit?

Does anyone know who in the world chopped the old fixed hank of rope off of LOLP last week? It was part of the history and not hurting anyone or anything, and a remnant of times gone by. Who in their right mind thought that they had the right, I am very curious? Sad times.

Yes. It had 2 new stainless bolts on it to get to the crack and is on Picnic Table Rock which is right next to Gibraltar. The climb is The Great Tradition, has a couple 10a moves above the bolts to get to the crack which is about 5.7 Other photo is out deep water soloing from a boat. There are some incredible deep water solo climbs there, especially on the far side of the lake across from the Orange Wall.

Climbing at Banks Lake last week was awesome. Even the descents were fun!

yeah, i place that gear but not with a whole lot of confidence that is will hold in that crap if something happens.

Thats not even funny.

I clip that bolt with a sling because if you ever do blow a flake up in the butthole it might be the only thing that saves you from going the distance.

Can some one explain why that bolt on the 2nd pitch of Young Warriors is so far to the left? You have to reach way over to clip it and it makes the rope run in almost a 90 degree arc unless you sling it and even them creates a ton of rope drag. Why isn't it placed above you where you can clip it above you and make the rope run allot smoother? Would Jim be into moving that bolt I wonder?

Replacing bad bolts has nothing whatsoever to do with ethics or 'laws', whereas retrobolting established routes does. And when you are talking about adding bolts to long established climbs then you are just asking for trouble regardless of what the FA thinks because at that point your 'community' is vested in the climb. No, that is incorrect. Established climbing protocol and procedural rules take precedence over any personal preference.

It is up to the climbing community as they have established the rules that you speak of. Thats what I mean when I speak of "community", the established rules of climbing.

Joe, Joe, Joe, Joe, Joe. You can't pull bolts that the established climbing community agrees are acceptable, that is vandalism. Are you a Vandal? Waht college did you go to? Furthermore don't you agree that you can only place bolts at Beacon that the established climbing protocol agrees are acceptable? You yourself have been a progenitor of such proceedings and goings-on, how can you deny the laws you live by?