stevetimetravlr

Typically happens from pulling on plastic bouldering hard. Tape it at the first sign of a hotspot or before you go if it is frequent. Has allot to do with the holds you are using,you won't get it from crimpers.

There was a old rope remnant section that was left when the new fixed line replaced the old one. It meant allot to Jim O. as part of history and somebody went up and cut it down. Seems unneccessary and wierd, what was the purpose to do that? Anyone have any ideas as to the culprit?

Does anyone know who in the world chopped the old fixed hank of rope off of LOLP last week? It was part of the history and not hurting anyone or anything, and a remnant of times gone by. Who in their right mind thought that they had the right, I am very curious? Sad times.

Yes. It had 2 new stainless bolts on it to get to the crack and is on Picnic Table Rock which is right next to Gibraltar. The climb is The Great Tradition, has a couple 10a moves above the bolts to get to the crack which is about 5.7 Other photo is out deep water soloing from a boat. There are some incredible deep water solo climbs there, especially on the far side of the lake across from the Orange Wall.

Climbing at Banks Lake last week was awesome. Even the descents were fun!

yeah, i place that gear but not with a whole lot of confidence that is will hold in that crap if something happens.

Thats not even funny.

I clip that bolt with a sling because if you ever do blow a flake up in the butthole it might be the only thing that saves you from going the distance.

Can some one explain why that bolt on the 2nd pitch of Young Warriors is so far to the left? You have to reach way over to clip it and it makes the rope run in almost a 90 degree arc unless you sling it and even them creates a ton of rope drag. Why isn't it placed above you where you can clip it above you and make the rope run allot smoother? Would Jim be into moving that bolt I wonder?

Replacing bad bolts has nothing whatsoever to do with ethics or 'laws', whereas retrobolting established routes does. And when you are talking about adding bolts to long established climbs then you are just asking for trouble regardless of what the FA thinks because at that point your 'community' is vested in the climb. No, that is incorrect. Established climbing protocol and procedural rules take precedence over any personal preference.

It is up to the climbing community as they have established the rules that you speak of. Thats what I mean when I speak of "community", the established rules of climbing.

Joe, Joe, Joe, Joe, Joe. You can't pull bolts that the established climbing community agrees are acceptable, that is vandalism. Are you a Vandal? Waht college did you go to? Furthermore don't you agree that you can only place bolts at Beacon that the established climbing protocol agrees are acceptable? You yourself have been a progenitor of such proceedings and goings-on, how can you deny the laws you live by?

I don't think you can retroactively claim first free ascent years later. Recollections dim, statue of limitations and all that. I guess if you're already listed in the guidebook as such I can't argue with that however.

Ok Kevbone, you have my permission, sounds good. Tell Bob I'm sorry I didn't ask him to touch the route. I'm glad we have cleared this up.

Hey, I did the route back in the day, maybe I'm the first ascentionist!? Joe, your equation is 2 + 2 = #1 , what the? Is pussify even a word? ...

The pins that are in Fear of Flying look like they have been in there quite a while at least as of 2 weeks ago. Joe, are you saying that you replaced them recently? or within a couple years?

I hope they come in XXXL.

My friend Rick was out climbing at Beacon last night and he found a pair of walkie talkies all set up for climbing in the parking lot. He wanted me to post this in case anyone is looking for them. Shoot me a Pm and i will forward your phone# to him.

Nice guys!

Rowdy yates

That is funny and about as interesting as Rob spelled backwards.

Looks like fun ivan except for the gardening and cleaning and teeth brushing! I'm up for it, going to Banks lake soon, then off to the Valley so would have to be when I get back. My preference would be if you had it all tidied up as I hate getting dirt under my fingernails and it tends to stick to the perfumed gel in my hair Also if ya need them pins, just holler. Theyre for bashing, kind of like that poor Joe Healy guy. I also heard a rumor that that Bill Coe wants to do the Dirty Double, so I hope his sexual idenity is not in question. :kisss:

Why feel sorry for Kyle? You should see my poor pitons, somebody beat the shit out of them. Ivan, you think it might go free possibly if there were fixed pins insitu? or probably never?

Wish I could tell you. We took a boat. Lots of nice lines.

Righteous!!!