stevetimetravlr

After 3 days of rain, got on Lunatic Fringe and took a short winger,it was all sandy and my foot slipped and I jammed my leg on something and hurt it. The jams are solid on that climb though, one of the most beautiful crack climbs ever. took the big one on Crest Jewel. Got a little off route and instead of reversing and doing it right decided to push it and keep going and was almost to the bolt....I was holding on to little dime edges and could feel my foot start to slip and told him i was going to blow and he said power thru it, but then my foot went and I took 3 steps running backwards trying to take up slack and then it was ass over teakettle and at some point i impacted my hip and really bruised it badly. Just scraped up but it shook me up pretty good as it felt like I was tumbling forever. the Valley is all about being humbled sometimes, and i got a good serving of it.

Whats da news boys? Stone Rodeo got some new bolts. way to get after it Joseph, and thank you for the beta. Whats up with all the home boys? Whats been happening at da Beacon stone? ivan put up any new routes, wats shaking? Just back from the Valley, many many days of rain. took a couple big ones, the 40 footer being the one that really got my attention. I might be getting to old for this shit. As soon as this bruised hip heals, i am back out there in yor face! How bout them anchors over on Fresh Squeeze, we need some new activity over on that part of the stone but Ivans description kinda scares me.

Ok, I forgot to say please Joseph. Please!!! I see 4 shiny new bolts going up the steep ramp area to the right of Cruising, but but both Rick and I thought Stone Rodeo went up thru the overhangs a little further right where there are some old bolts, so......I'm confused...

yes Ivan, he got it togather and finished it up to the anchor and then followed me on up Dods, so kudos to him for that. he told me later he thought it happened because he was hungover,just like the guy in the video! Poor Kenny, yeah loosing cams are expensive!

I think he almost did. How bout Assbroke Kenny? That has a certain ring to it....

Rick got his lower leg stuck on the offwidth start to Free for all today and couldn't get it out half way up. Thank goodness there were two guys next door with a rope on Free for Some and they swung it over and helped him take the weight off and he was able to extricate himself. It was kind of a scary situation for a while because I couldn't do anything to help him except belay. Thanks again guys if you're out there!

hey, wheres da update on Stone Rodeo??? Did you fire it Joseph? Whats the goods? Hows it hanging?

Old age..........the first thing to go is.............the car keys.

For you Beacon climbers, Rick and I went caving last week and had a blast in a long cave with many squeezes and crawls. Wild! Horizontal climbing~

Ivan, if Joseph re-bolts it (correct terminology?), we should all take a few swings at freeing it. It might be one of those sleeper climbs that isn't as hard as it looks.....gulp! Joseph, whats your call? Final answer?

I always wear a helmet. Couple weeks ago Rick broke off a grapefruit sized rock from about 40 feet up out at Wishram crack climbing, and it impacted me squarely in the top of the helmet. didn't even faze me. I can't imagine what would have happened it i didn't have a helmet on, but I dont think I'd be typing this right now...

Nice job guys!

Replace them bolts Joseph and lets get on it. Take some WHIPPERS. I agree, it is a looming presence there right between Crusing and young Warriors, a unknown section of the crag for me.

Kenny, just don't take a.......................WHIPPER!!!

I might be out today Ivan, but have a youngster in tow so not sure today would be the day for it. Thanks for the beta, it looks like such a spectacular crack and location up there. Joseph, I'm not head pointing, dick pointing or anything like that. I got no ego to feed. I would just like to take a gander at the climb, and see whats there, clean some of the weeds out and maybe pull down on a section of it. I don't normally rap into anything, that would be......YOU!!! Ivan's the only dude I know who has even been up there in years. and he said the gear was crap for free climbing if I recall correctly? Farrgo, I agree with you completely dude! Thats why I was suggesting no chopping, just replace whats there so no controversy and the climb can get done again on a semi regular basis by some of us lesser mortals.

Fine by me. Any ideas on getting in to the top of Fresh Squeeze to set up a TR?

The man himself.

What are we worried about chopping bolts on Stone Rodeo for, when there are gems like that still in the rough. Fresh Squeeze, that looks like a incredible route. I heard that Stone Rodeo was a chipped route, big controvery over it way back when. Is that really true or was someone pulling my leg?

Thats the one. I thought the gear looked a little thin on it, and figured you had probably gotten it done Ivan, nice!

Anyone done the route that goes up the most amazing looking dihedral at Beacon? It starts directly above the Windsurfer anchors and soars upwards? It has some weeds in it and some pins and looks wild and very long and overhanging near the top.

I hate to report it isn't Plaid. I thought so to, but just spoke with him and they did bail, as the heat and crowds were to intense. Sweatiest and most humid day today at Beacon. It must have been 100% humidity, any extertion and you were drenched. Tt had to have rained there this morning as the woods were dripping wet when we got there at 1, and the sun baked, and you could cut the air with a knife as not a breath of wind. Strange day.

Thanks Bill. Good to know. I did hear that you can use just one side of the cams for aiding in super narrow placements. Did that work at all?

Ok, so you know who possibly could have done the first ascent. So now there are a few more bolts then there were when it was first done, in leiu of what, pins? so is it better to have a pin list for the climb?

Bailed. Dang. They were rocking so hard.

and if no one really knows who did the first free ascent.......?