stevetimetravlr

Kenny, just don't take a.......................WHIPPER!!!

I might be out today Ivan, but have a youngster in tow so not sure today would be the day for it. Thanks for the beta, it looks like such a spectacular crack and location up there. Joseph, I'm not head pointing, dick pointing or anything like that. I got no ego to feed. I would just like to take a gander at the climb, and see whats there, clean some of the weeds out and maybe pull down on a section of it. I don't normally rap into anything, that would be......YOU!!! Ivan's the only dude I know who has even been up there in years. and he said the gear was crap for free climbing if I recall correctly? Farrgo, I agree with you completely dude! Thats why I was suggesting no chopping, just replace whats there so no controversy and the climb can get done again on a semi regular basis by some of us lesser mortals.

Fine by me. Any ideas on getting in to the top of Fresh Squeeze to set up a TR?

The man himself.

What are we worried about chopping bolts on Stone Rodeo for, when there are gems like that still in the rough. Fresh Squeeze, that looks like a incredible route. I heard that Stone Rodeo was a chipped route, big controvery over it way back when. Is that really true or was someone pulling my leg?

Thats the one. I thought the gear looked a little thin on it, and figured you had probably gotten it done Ivan, nice!

Anyone done the route that goes up the most amazing looking dihedral at Beacon? It starts directly above the Windsurfer anchors and soars upwards? It has some weeds in it and some pins and looks wild and very long and overhanging near the top.

I hate to report it isn't Plaid. I thought so to, but just spoke with him and they did bail, as the heat and crowds were to intense. Sweatiest and most humid day today at Beacon. It must have been 100% humidity, any extertion and you were drenched. Tt had to have rained there this morning as the woods were dripping wet when we got there at 1, and the sun baked, and you could cut the air with a knife as not a breath of wind. Strange day.

Thanks Bill. Good to know. I did hear that you can use just one side of the cams for aiding in super narrow placements. Did that work at all?

Ok, so you know who possibly could have done the first ascent. So now there are a few more bolts then there were when it was first done, in leiu of what, pins? so is it better to have a pin list for the climb?

Bailed. Dang. They were rocking so hard.

and if no one really knows who did the first free ascent.......?

Hey guys, on the El Cap report it looks like Plaid made El Cap Tower today on the Nose, and was climbing strongly all day according to Tom. Here is the link to the report! Go Scott go!!! http://www.elcapreport.com/content/elcap-report-92610

I am so sorry to hear this news. His legacy of climbs is left for the rest of us. Ivan, well said.

Nice. Thank you. I'll report back later after giving Ivan a belay on it.

now I'm very confused......maybe its new anchors you put in and forgot about? Does it have a bunch of webbing and two rap rings on it?

Nice Sherri! Now if we could just get them to extend the hours....ha!

Right before the storm.

It appears that no one really knows who did the first free ascent, so that is why I suggest not chopping anything.

Seems like the bolts must be there for good reason. Its obviously not getting done very often, if at all lately. To me, replacing the bolts sounds like a good idea, but not chopping just for chopping bolts.

Sounds like the doctor is out....in fact I think she is in Yosemite right now tearing it up, Dr BS. Seems like climbing would be easy on the hip joint and running would be HELL! I could see if he had prescribed biking, but running?

You would have to use a belay device Joe.

It looked more like a 5.12 sport route, except a couple sections of gear right off the ground and possibly higher up. Im sure its one of the new routes listed, I'll just have to measure how far off the trail it is next time Im there.

In the route description for Head Case, it says only 2 bolts. The route I saw had at least 5 bolts on it. None of the route descriptions lists 5 bolts.

Has a topo for over there been drawn up or available? Looks like there is some pretty interesting stuff over there, but that huge section in the middle shady and mossy.