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Everything posted by stevetimetravlr
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Raindawg, I base my views on many things you have posted on this site, mostly your unrelenting attacks on sport climbing. With no posting on what/where/whom you climb or positive input on climbing in general. Kimmo, my view is based on the fact that there is wilderness a plenty in the state of Washington, millions of acres. Most people are to lazy to go find it. But some love to bitch about fixed gear in a dedicated sport area near a major population area as impacting someones view? There are many many thousands of miles of trails in the state of Washington. How many fixed climbs can you see from any of those trails? So in one of the few instances, it is a issue for someone? Sorry, I find that just a little self absorbed, one sided, and ridiculous.
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If someone only climbs 5.6, then their point of view regarding fixed pro on hard sport climbs is invalid in my view. They have no concept of what is involved, as evidenced by their comments. So sure they are welcome to comment, just not to be taken seriously. I have been hiking Mt Si since I was 15 in 1974. there was no traffic at those crags, no real trails, no visitation back then. All that has happened due to fixed gear. So maybe they are against people going there, rather then fixed gear. Thats what it appears to me.
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Thanks for sharing your perspective. I look forward to discussing it with you at the crag sometime. Cheers, Orion You won't be seeing Raindawg or any of the whiners at Little Si or Smith Rock. They don't climb anymore. or if they do, doubtful if it reaches the 5.6 scale but they certainly like to judge people, thats their thing, not climbing. What are you thinking Orion trying to climb a route that may be to diffcult for you? You should be like these guys, and participate in "Assured Outcome" climbing.
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[TR] Beasodden Rock - Jensen's Rectum (fa? III+, 5.8 C1) 1/16/2011
stevetimetravlr replied to ivan's topic in Oregon Cascades
ya got my vote Ivan. Do it mon! -
[TR] Beasodden Rock - Jensen's Rectum (fa? III+, 5.8 C1) 1/16/2011
stevetimetravlr replied to ivan's topic in Oregon Cascades
gonna have to upload the video to Vimeo. Otrhwise it didn't happen. -
I think that wear and tear on ropes over sharp edges, ropes getting hung up and cranked on when you pull them, jugging ropes, these are all things that contribute to wearing a rope out. Taking falls maybe not so much. I think shorter falls where the rope doesn't get to stretch much and absorb the fall(ie sport climbing) is harder on the rope then longer falls but its what the rope is made for. But thats just my personal opinion. also, washing the rope seems to fuzz it up over time, so i wouldn't really wash it much personally, just use a rope bag on a regular basis when belaying in the dirt.
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Fun
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I don't think we have anything to argue about Bill! For once we all just want to go climbing. But can't with all this flipping rain. We can get all pissy and stuff after the Beacon closure kicks in again. Kudos to Ivan for being out getting it done in the torrential downpour, had to have been brutal. any photos?
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How was it Ivan? Did ya get on Jensens? I was looking for ya as I drove west on 84 this morning but couldn't see much thru the rain and fog.
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You can always move to Ogden. This ice tower will be located right near the Rock Gym and the Flowrider indoor surfing park. Ogden coming on strong. http://www.envisionogden.org/Articles/IceWallArticle.php
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The continuing saga of Plaid on Psychic, we returned the following day in a raging gale to retrieve the gear left the night before. We rapped all the way down, and cleaned the pitch. This is the day of the snowstorm this week, Tuesday evening, it started snowing as we got back to the parking lot, good timing! http://www.vimeo.com/18803267
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We still got a few weeks left Ivan. and Plaid did have to leave a pin or two, so he still needs to go back up and clean them out or apply for a fixed anchor permit in triplicate, notarized, signed, authorized and duly noted and then take a trip in the time machine so that its submitted before he left, or he'll be knocking elbows with the jailers and barking like a dog before we know it. Blueblockers, I remember those and even ordered a pair, loved em. Classic.
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Holy sheep shit. Thank goodness for safety meetings,its a dangerous world out there.
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I think the Chinese are a pretty mellow crew overall compared to us dickheads. But what we REALLY REALLY don't want them to do is force them to start flexcing their muscle.
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What Ivan said! Plaid told me that Andrew(Pink) tried to free the final pitch Physic Wound unsucessfully sometime back, and he is the only person to date known to have climbed it at all, aid or free, with copperheads and skyhooks and iron. But he posts on here, so whats da story Pink??!!! Would love to hear the story!!!
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I'm not sure I understand what you are saying Joe. Plaid defintely wasn't drifting into expediency, I am here to tell you! ha! We had double set of Alien and Alien offsets, double set of Dmm offset brassies, full set of C3's, all the clean tools neccessary, but that seam is so tiny he kept going to the peckerheads and knifeblades,he had to tag up a whole nother set of them. It did take him a while, although he ran up the first bit in pretty fair style, but as he neared the top, it went to 15-20 minutes a placement, and then on the last placement he was there for like 45 minutes without moving, he kept blowing the pieces at the copperhead seam but we had no small heads, just some big ones. so next time. It was a grand adventure, although the book I was reading was kind of lousy so that was weak sauce. Osprey, this is the line to the right of Flying Dutchman.
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[TR] Winchester Lookout - The long way 1/3/2011
stevetimetravlr replied to JasonG's topic in North Cascades
Looks like a ton of fun! -
I'm sure Beacon misses you dude.
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Way to go for it! If ya aint' going for it, you ain't going for it. If ya get in way over your head, well...thats what the good lord made adjustable daisys for. Kudos for getting out and getting on it, rocking!
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video of Scott on Physic Wound
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Kudos! Doubly happy is the man to whom lofty mountain tops are within reach. John Muir.
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[TR] BaconRawk - Ze Norseman's Noggin 1/23/2010
stevetimetravlr replied to ivan's topic in Oregon Cascades
Great thread Ivan! Good on ya and kyle for getting Steppenwulf done. I've admired it many times from Big Ledge but looks to thin and desperate to try free. Aid climbing it sounds like the Way! -
Heres a cool video put togather by my friend Bob of some of our exploits of TIC(Team Issaquah Climbers bike team), which is a group of us that grew up togather in Issaquah and learned to climb togather and are still doing it 30 years later. Crank it up!!
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Thanks Ivan. It has to be a little more out of the wind then where we were. We will see what the weather allows here the next couple weeks,yeah!
