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Everything posted by stevetimetravlr
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I think its cast because it looks like it is, I may be wrong. Its never done me wrong, love that thing. I don;t use it much anymore however, it kind of tended to freak my partners out along with my clanking hexs. Except at Beacon where old school is in!!
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I believe my Sticht belay plate is cast aluminum. which is nice.
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Joe, I'm curious why you haven't thrown a big fit about the recent sport climbs on the NW face since you're so indignant over Ivan's route?
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Whoa! Rowdy!
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I like my parka's somewhat roomy. More comfortable that way and more options to layer.
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My buddy said he just lost power in Woodinville
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yeah gusting to 152 but averaging 128 mph, incredible. and still going up.
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Thats crazy! Wow, pineapple express is bringing it on!
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instead of bitching about the falcon closure :)
stevetimetravlr replied to pink's topic in Columbia River Gorge
Harsh dude. Thats not right to say shit like that. Pretty divisive. We all understand its tough to move away and live in nebraska and not get to climb much, but come on..... I think I've seen all those faces around at differnet places in the past. but not sure I've ever seen Pinks curly locks. Looks like a good crew. Man I miss the warm sun and the south face already, and its only been a couple weeks! -
instead of bitching about the falcon closure :)
stevetimetravlr replied to pink's topic in Columbia River Gorge
hey, who knows these guys? Dude posted over at Supertopo about his favorite crag being Beacon, obviously knows what hes talking about! Looks like they are having fun, but since i am a gorge rat, I don't recognize them but figured the rest of the crew knows them. -
Whats wrong with the Russians? Based on the few on this site that climb, I would say they are a pretty badass crew. Even the women will kick your butt!
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Beacon had been a year round training ground for many of the top big wall climbers in the past, but the peregrine closure put the kabosh on that. Now for the first time in 16 years(?) we finally have a multipitch climb that can be done in the closure season and folks appear to be interested in climbing it, even Jim said he wants to go up it. More people might start climbing out at Beacon, oh no! Maybe even wall climbers and aid climbers, lord forbid, an aid renaissance so to speak! The route might even go free to a strong climber on a dry day someday, like it did to Pink. Heck, we might even get organized and get people involved as a group and do something for ourselves and the Park. Many of the abandoned south side routes might get cleaned up and climbed again, and anchors fixed up. People might get enthusiatic about Beacon again, and things start happening there that would improve the climbers lot.
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[TR] Beacon Rawks - Stone Soup - Aid Solo 2/10/2011
stevetimetravlr replied to miker's topic in Oregon Cascades
Right on Mike. Way to get after it, sending in style. Here ya are coming down to visit on the 2nd pitch. -
I could beat myself with a stick...
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I think the outhouses at Vantage would be a #1 priority, and I rarely climb there so Im not biased. Its just thats it turned into a giant turd field there now, and getting worse. Sick.
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You don't think its R rated in a few places? Kenny broke his tailbone on it, remember? Especially since the route is usually only climbed in winter in the cold, rain, and wind. It is a area different then the rest of Beacon and demands different tactics. How can you bitch about a 6 pitch summit route that starts from the parking lot and basically takes 2 winter days to finish and even has a bivy ledge half way to boot. Of course, Im not talking of a day like today bluebird, but more like what it was last Saturday and what it will be like this coming Saturday. If you try it, you'll like it. Its a big endeavour.
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It hasn't gone anywhere? You can climb there this weekend as a matter of fact. Take a number to get on the Soup!
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It must be Right Gull
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Pink: I l-left a message on ahhh,regarding that Soup route. Ivan: A message? What number did you call? Pink: Two, four, niner, five, six, seven... Ivan: I can't hear you, you're trailing off and did I catch a niner in there? Were you calling from a walkie-talkie? Pink: No, it was cordless.
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I'll have to add Borderline to the List for next year. In looking at Olsens color map see that he upgraded Bears in Heat from 10d(old guide) to 11b. Thats more in line with what I thought, it was stout. Ivan, r u sure thats not just a birthmark that comes and goes?
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ok, that explains everything Ivan! Pipeline rockfall?
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Rock Pirates. Robert McGown first ascent. First free ascent M. Cartier and D. Nakahira 1985 The saame guys that did 1st free ascent of Bears in Heat, must have been prolific ass kickers.
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I getting kind of old myself. Just noticed the second line right of Blownout is called Rock Pirates. 5.12 and runout it says. The topo shows at least 12 bolts on it, thats a Beacon rarity in one pitch.
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I just looked at Tim Olsens big poster map of Beacon that I have laminated. It looks like Borderline is the line left of Blownout, and Second Wind goes right. Says Borderline is 11b and Second Wind is 11d, yikes. Stout. How is Borderline?