stevetimetravlr

In looking at Olsens well drawn topo, it appears that from the midpoint anchors, Bears in Heat is on the left(obvious splitter in face to top anchors), then the dihedral directly to the right of Bears is Flying Dutchman final pitch and then the next dihedral that the rap goes down is Physic Wound. So the Dutchman rap goes down Physic Wound? Thats wierd......Ivan???

Justin, Im still a little sore from climbing with you guys on Saturday. Way to rock it! Sorry about sending you up that crack without the big cams, but hey, blame it on Kenny.

This summer on the photos. haven't done much free climbing at Beacon in the last month, just to darn wet. and cold.

I like REI for several reasons. They are a coop and you get a healthy rebate back from what you spend. You can return items no problems, and they have good prices allot of the time. They are not a mountain shop anymore, but I remember the days when they were and there always the smell of burning nylon from them cutting runners like a real mountain shop used to smell like and they had all the hardcore gear and somebody behind the rock climbing counter. That was back in the orginal REI store. We used to sleep overnight before the sales on the sidewalk and get incredible deals like boots, or tent, or sleeping bags $5- good times.

Who's your daddy?

I guess when all else fails, look at the topo. Nice photo Bill. You can see the Arena of Terror already exists in this photo. The Railroad went in in 1904 I believe, and I think it was them that blasted it out for fill and drilled the tunnels?

Two words, El Potero Chico muchacha.

So some clarification needed here as I am confused. From the second set of belay anchors, Bears is far left about 10 feet. There is another dihedral about 5 feet right of Bears, and then another 10 feet right of that is Dutchman? Plaid says that is Dutchman, but according to your description Ivan, you say Dutchman is the dihedral directly right of Bears? As if you started up Bears, you would not be able to get back over to what Plaid thinks is Dutchmans...and that the Dutchmans rap comes down....

After a while my will was waning. I couldn't hear Plaid above the wind, so just a huddle against the cliff trying not to get blown off my feet and stay warm. The se corner looked somewhat dry and climable,just colder then a witches teat and roaring wind. Off of Dutchman that Bears in Heat pitch is sure a stellar looking crack. It looks like a Beacon rarity, a splitter up a face, not in a dihedral. also, Plaid pointed to me Bill where you and Adam put up a route, and showed me the huge scary block. Yikes, that thing is ginormous and looks detached and hanging there. Did you have to pound pins around it? No thanks!!

Plaid got it done, pitch 1. I froze my arse off. The east winds were howling,, no precip but it was sucking the icy cold out of the eastern gorge. Popsicle weather. So Bears in Heat is that crack that veers off left of Flying Dutchman, not in a dihedral to a set of anchors almost top of the face? it looks excellent! 2nd pitch Dutchman looks like tiny gear and peckerheads?

RUMR you are close saying Generator crack, but num1bc you are right! That previous photo I posted is the the inside of the rock at Short Circuit. Nice one.

Great spot to get to know the locals and hear all the opinions and stories and trip reports. Fun and all the taunts and jests and comeback are in fun and part of the spirit of things, part of the learning experience. I better get off the computer as just got a phone call from the Plaidman and he is at the base of Beacon in the dark ready to start jugging and Im still at home drinking my coffee. Owwwwww

Canon Digital Elf. Its not waterproof but I have carried it and gotten it wet many times in my jacket pocket. Very compact, takes a beating. and good video.

Plaid, you are scaring me.

Anyone recognize this spot in Yosemite? Its right near a famous crack climb..

Honolua is a powerful place spiritually and allot of people have died surfing there. There is no outer reef and you are surfing right on the brink of the chasm of the deep blue Pacific. so the Landlord is always close by and the wave is very thick and the coast is rugged and wild with Molokai right across the channel from you. Spectacular. Yes, right side of Flemings is da spot. Try surfing/boogie board Kahului harbor which is near the airport. There is a really nice break there. Its a juicy wave, always going off. Drive way out on the west jetty to the end and you'll see it right inside the harbor mouth.

DT Flemings is a great place for body surfing, right on! Ya got to try Baldwins, just walk down the beach about 100 yards to the left from the parking lot, and it is more private and the waves better with a little sandbar under the water you can't see. That little spot at Baldwins is called Boobs Beach, as it is away from the main crowds so the gals stroll down the beach and lay out there topless, so another added benefit to an already amazing spot. Honolua is better for a boogie board or of course surfing. I remember just me and my buddy being the only guys out one special day, small waves, and then it just pumped up. We were the only ones out for about half a hour, just getting ride after ride, so thick and hollow and tube-u-lar,just awesome. I loved that place until a friend of mine died there on a big day. His lease got tangled in the under water cave rocks and they couldn't find him for a few days. It seemed kind of wierd to me to surf there after that, it just felt errie. Great marine park there to snorkel on a calm day.

Did you do any body whomping at Baldwins? its da place mon.

Hey Matt, I remember you guys from back in the day. You and Jamie and Paul were the bad asses, pushing the rad stuff at Index and elsewhere. I used to climb in 1977-78 when i was in E-burg with a guy you were friends with and went to school with in Yakima, I wish I could remember his name(Tim?). He took me to a few places, Painted Rocks by Selah? Scary stuff. Anyway, I am still climbing all these years later, and I think adding a few bolts to belays on this route would be great! Man, I still remember when you dudes did the first winter ascent of Liberty Crack. I did it this last summer and was trying to visualize doing it in winter, no thanks! Kudos! Also, I remember a article by Paul that came out back in the day, where he used lingo like "calcium carbonate stairway to the stars", etc. We used to use that phrase allot after that. You don't by chance have a copy of that article you could post? It was an inspiring article. You guys were really breaking new ground. Whatever you decide on Dragontail, the climbing community is behind you!

Here is where you want to apply. Columbia River Gorge. either Hood River, White Salmon, or The Dalles. 45 minutes to Mt Hood skiing. Minutes to climbing Minutes to kite boarding/windsurfing Awesome mountain, trail, and road biking Sports Cental http://www.providence.org/hoodriver/ or http://www.mcmc.net/ or http://www.skylinehospital.com/

I bought the fiberglass shaft Nanga Parbat because it was the strongest axe on the market, but also the heaviest. but that was when I was still packing in a cast iron skillet to cook breakfast.

I would offer $100- for the "decorative alpenstock" if you're interested in selling it Zalmen.

I will let those guys post up. All i can say is it must have been wild, as they were a little shaky all day. They kept saying, we don't care if there is no ice, we are just happy to be here and breathing. We did about 7 routes, and poor Justin got talked him into leading this crack climb and then old Steve forgot to give him a 2 inch cam for the crux. So he had in this crappy Alien and horrible cam, neither would have held body weight, and he was looking at a bad fall, but he manned up and powered thru it as by that time it was to late to reverse the moves to get the right gear. I was a little upset, as I got all sweaty belaying.

Looks like a 60's ice ax to me. I have a ice ax by Stubai I bought new in 1974. Heres the photo. Bill already taunted me about it in an other thread, which I think means he would like to get his hands on it.Ha!

Speaking of driving in the Gorge, Justin and Kenny did a new route yesterday that they called "Air Bag Deployment".