stevetimetravlr

Just changed the question. Second Wind is what I was wondering about. Jim said the bolts on it are crappy. but it looks really cool.

Affirmative. That was Bears in Heat. Classic direct start to Blownout below. Anyone done the 11b route that goes right partway up the 2nd pitch of Blownout, I think its called Second wind?

Holy Carp. good photos guys. I feel inadequate. How about this splitter?

Here's a novel idea. Its the off season at Beacon, and anxiety runs high. Lets not argue and bicker about who killed who, so I'll just post a few pics, who can tell me what route its on. Keep the stoke up for summer. It will be here before we know it.

over 7 pitches, there are: 3 instances of 3 bolts being clipped in a row 4 instances of 2 bolts in a row depending on the climber, 4 or more hook moves that's over-protected? I wasn't going to post to this thread no mo, but just can't help myself. I just want to remind folks that what you might percieve as a bolt ladder(2 or 3 bolts in a row) actually requires gear and very creative tactices to utilize as when you do the climb, if you ever do, you will find that out. Ivan is a tall dude and the few places there are bolts in sucession, they are not clip ups. It took me 10 minutes on the first pitch to go from one bolt to another, plus allot of swearing, head scratching, a creative placement, and some free climbing. Fawk, now you got the beta, you should be able to walk up it. Not.

Alrighty now, thanks for the business Bill! and yes Ivan, I did have a birthday and fell asleep on the couch before they cut the cake. So I am fresh as a daisy today. and Jim Anglin was the MAN! What a great dude, who was always out there getting after it, always something positive to say, just a animal. Wise words. He did me a super good turn right before he passed and I never got to say thank you to him.

I replied to this 2 days ago and still no response? whats up?

You guys are full of it. Sprayin about a route none of ya have ever done or even looked at up close, except maybe Pink free climbing part of it low down on the route years ago. I had no contribution to the first ascent, wish i would have, but from what I can see from doing the first 2 pitches it is a proud line and pretty bold, done in winter and adverse conditions. For one thing, its not a free friendly area being the NW face area it is mossy and slimey overall. This is no "aid renaissance" but simply one of the only alternatives at Beacon since the closure kicked in going up in a area where no one ever ventures. I have no desire to free climb the route and I doubt anyone else really does either. Its really bold of you guys to get on here and spray about it and talk smack, but I haven't and doubt I will see any of you on it. Harden the fawk up and get on it and then we can talk or serve yourself up another helping of WEAK SAUCE.

Its a great route, you guys ought to do in instead of talking yourself out of attempting it, just because you are nervous as sheep. Bahhhhhhhhhh.

thats what she said..

yeah hey, Joe, you got to do the line to knock it. Otherwise you are just doing a "Grossberg" as on Wings of Steel and taking a dump on someones ropes because you can't get up it yourself. I'm not saying you can't get up it or... well maybe I am.... :kisss:

Thanks Dave! and just want to say it officialy, I was just razzing everybody in fun. Kevbone I love all your bolts dude, I'd clip em twice if I could. No need for anyone to be overly sensitive or try to get in touch with their feelings. We are a Band of Brothers, and all that.

I thought it was just fun and games and at the end we all have a group hug, go sport climbing, and drink Red Bulls. Its my birthday today, and I think thats what I going to do...yep, I'm officialy a old dog, son of a ..... 52 years and it ain't getting any easier.

ok Kevbone, I see. I just thought you might be referring to your Ozone grid bolting and couldn't possibly be denigrating Stone Soup with its occasional fixed peckerhead or bolt to keep ya off a ledge fall or to bypass a blank section, but maybe you were......? Keeping it real baby....this shit is fun....! 8D

i think i actually agree with you on this one joseph.... I just realized that the above had been said before but I couldn't remember to whom, but now its coming to me.........it was said to Warren Harding, Royal Robbins, Jim Bridwell, Yvon Chouinard, Steve Gerberding, Layton Kor, Charlie Porter, Dean Caldwell, Fred Becky, this list goes on. You're in good company Ivan, and know you struck it rich when you get the old guards panties in a uproar! I can hardly wait to get back on that biatch and send it, fawk yeah!

R U talking Ozone or Beacon Kevbone?

I would call Ivans line the pure Direttissima line and everything else exploiting minor lines of weakness. This route take a great line up the middle of the wall connecting small seams and cracks with the occassioanl blank section. Its a classic line with thought provoking placements, and even clipping some of the fixed pieces very challenging. Aunt Bee would be proud.

Hard to believe anyone has previously led Ivans actual line without the requisite pins and bolts and the odd peckerhead and hook move. How would you get pass the 2 bolt ladder on the first pitch? On the 2nd pitch without the bolts and pins,its like no way,you are looking at bad ledge falls. I can't believe that is previously traveled terrain without the fixed gear. I have to stand up for Ivan here, its just to thin and there would be some sign of passing. Barneys Bubble~! and Smoke signals must go either left or right I would think. Thats what I'm talking.

Nice!

What about Aunt Bee? Ivan could just rename it Barney's Bull based on the vague internet recollections... Ha!

Did you say Stone Soup? Here's some photos from today. Really a quality route. I'd bring a hammer for cleaning though. Also a headlamp for placing gear on the first pitch. If only Kenny would have had that beta, he'd still have his tailboner. Good times, thank you Ivan. The first pitch has a few tricky "very interesting" sections but fun stuff. Ivan looking for the umbrella. Ivan starts the second pitch, a little cruxy right off the deck. Ivan nears 3 Tree Ledge and the top of the second pitch. We got rained on pretty hard at this point and the temps were chilly so we bailed. I'm stoked to get back on it and finish it as it looks like great fun ahead for the next 4 pitches! Highly reccommended.

That a wild spot to bivy, very cool!

that was a wierd video...or what

Well, he couldn't have added to many bolts if Kenny broke his tailbone on it! Doesn't the multipitch complete climb take prescedence over a single pitch top rope Kevbone? Hey, I hear you are top roping really well lately. Like the first pitch of the PO Wall had been climbed before Bridwell did it, but I don't see anybody calling it anything but the PO Wall. Any bolts, pins, and other assorted fixed gear should be encouraged on that shitty chossy side of Beacon in my mind since most of us only end up climbing there in the winter in the rain and the wet.

That pile of rocks looks terrifyingly trundlerable. I'm surprised Ivan and Justin could restrain themselves. Which line there is yours Pink? Not Bears, so the Dirty Double?