Plaidman

Change out that Reverso you goon! We can't lose you. You are a REAL knuckle head. And if you go they will know that there is really something wrong with me. Stay safe. Love a bro.

Nicely done dudes. Glad folks are getting out there and getting it done.

Who is going to be there? Post up dudes, so we know how many people to make the reservation for. Although I have plenty of reservations about many of you.

The Nose is still there. It didn't go so good. Led the first pitch. Now I have to go back and do the other 32. Still sorting out what happened. It was good and bad. Short version of the TR. My partner Jack and I met for the first time at Camp 4. We met on the internet. The date didn't go so good. This is Plaidman at the bottom of the first pitch of The Nose after hauling 32 liters of water there. Working at the belay on the first pitch of The Nose. Early morning and hot as hell. Plaidman topping out on Higher Cathedral Spire My partner and Plaidman on summit of Higher Cathedral Spire. The date is going better. The mess of slings to rap off Higher Cathedral Spire. We added a quick link as the rap rings looked iffy

Is that better?

Nitrox where the hell did you find that crazy video?

Harvey also said he had one cam and tried not to use it. He is a real bad ass. Now that is old school.

I am up for the Tues. thing. It sounds like fun. I love gear. Maybe we can solo that crazy hand jam crack on the corner at the bottom of the stairs too. Good call on leaving the chalk at home. You know that Harvey Carter says that it is aid.

I usually throw my gloves off when ice climbing as I am Scottish and that is the way it is done old school style. I hear that the seconds instead of following the rope would just follow the blood on the ice. My hands don't get cold too often but I have used the Mad Rock armored knuckle gloves after Darrin Stone saw my bruised knuckles after a day climbing with him. He gave me a pair of these gloves to try. They are leather with armor plastic knuckles. They do get wet. I do carry a pair of fluffy down mittens that I wear sometimes between to belay just in case I do get cold. This doesn't happen often especially in The Columbia River Gorge cause if the ice does come in it is just usually just above freezing. In Colorado that's a different animal. I don't really get on enough ice to be really an expert on this subject. But I have worked most of my professional career as a carpenter. Even in Colorado at 9000 ft. above sea level year round for 6 1/2 years. Trying to hold nails with gloves sucks. So I just learned to suck it up. That being said I am going to try some of the gloves that they make me wear in the union here. They have thermal gloves that have a latex coating. I also thought of getting some of the neoprene fishermans gloves they sell in sporting good stores.

WOW Bill. Awesome review. I have to say that I have never used any hybrid Aliens. So my comments on the Totem Cams was not a full out comparison. Not like yours for sure. I really didn't try them in marginal placements. Cause I really don't like marginal placements to start with. So my comments were just a straight up: would I use this cam. The answer was yes. The fact that I could use them in horizontal placements and the over construction of the cam were the features that I liked most. The fact that the cables go all the way through the lobe of the cam with a ball socket end was ingenious I thought. As I have had trouble with some of my cams where the wire just breaks over time. The strength of the spring I thought was good too. In the pin scars in Yosemite the Totem Cam was awesome. I am repeating myself as I wrote this up in my review on my blog. All being said I am not an authority and really didn't do a side by side comparison of all the different other cams cause I don't have a lot to compare to. I have one Alien(yellow), one Rock Empire TCU(blue),and one Pacific Omega link cam (purple .3 to .5 range for BD sizes. Then all the rest of my cams are BD C4s. So I was comparing The Totem Cams to what I have and my experience with the type of climbing I do. Heck I still love TriCams. Pinks rock and the new black and white are awesome. I digress. A lot. In my humble or not so.... That is all. Bill Rocks! Thanks Bill Plaidman

That's F###ed up.

This is the best pic of the lot from my trip to The Valley this last Sept 2010. This was taken from the top of Higher Cathedral Spire in the late afternoon. It was a great summit.

Damn! Wish I was going back down. I just got back and got my ass handed to me. Had a blast. The weather is supposed to improve toward the end of the week. Enjoy Shangri-La (i.e. Yosemite). Love Yosemite.

Well the report is that we didn't get above the first pitch. I got to lead it. It was great. Now I just need to go back and do the next 32 pitches. Train harder and be lighter.

I am leaving now for The Valley to climb El Cap. See ya all when I get back. WHAHOOOO!!!!!

That is F---ed UP!! You are right Steve. Who the hell did it. I want to know. There was a very good reason for that fixed line being there. DAMN IT!!!!

This is fun stuff for the kids. It is a bouldering competition but it is not all just a grinding ordeal. The older kids are way more serious because most of them have been at it awhile. The atmosphere is encouraging and the energy is good. The focus is do your best and enjoy. I love watching these young athletes. Some of them will go on to do great things in the climbing community. They are starting a lot younger than I did. They will be in for a life long adventure. The Kidfest Boulder Competition will be in an open format. There will be six categories: Recreational Youth division (8-13 years old) boys and girls, Recreational Junior division (13-18 years old) boys and girls, and Advanced division (all ages, 3+ years of competitive climbing) boys and girls. Winners will be awarded prizes based on the total accumulation of points over the two days of competition. All participants will receive a goody bag and t-shirt. To participate in this event or enjoy some of the other events register at Climb Max Mountaineering at 928 Northeast 28th Avenue, Portland, OR‎ - (503) 797-1991‎ or visit the online registration site.

Last chance to get to the Smith Rock Detour. This WEEKEND!!!

Gonna be fun

When I heard that Kevin Jorgeson was going to do the bouldering clinic at the Smith Rock Detour, I almost couldn't believe it. Climb Max Mountaineering is really going all out to provide the best in training clinics available. To have a pro like Kevin in is so awesome. Bouldering is one of those sports that doesn't require much equipment. Shoes, chalk bag, a pad, and a lot of determination is all it takes. Maybe a friend or two to catch you if you spit off. John Gill had it right when he talked about the bouldering experience. It just took the rest of us some time to catch up with his vision. Now with the new blood like Kevin Jorgeson bouldering is just getting started. For instance Kevin's first ascent of boulder problems like The Beautiful and Damned (35’ V13). Bouldering has an exciting future ahead and Kevin is definitely on the bleeding edge of the sport. So get tips, technique, and advice from one of the best in the sport at the Smith Rock Detour. If you want to participate in this clinic or enjoy some of the other events register at Climb Max Mountaineering at 928 Northeast 28th Avenue, Portland, OR - (503) 797-1991 or visit the online registration site.

The hound was impressive, but Rick has been training on his apple tree in his backyard. Apple Tree Route

Rick is going to kick your ass. He was second last year.

With tricks like that who needs a clown or magician? That looks heinous. Definitely not a suggested mistake to make.

To have a clinic taught by seasoned pros like John Race and Matt Lewis is a real treat. John Race is an AMGA guide which is a big deal. He is with the Northwest Mountain School and is sponsored by Outdoor Research and Petzl. Outdoor Research and Petzl produce some of the best equipment on the planet. Matt Lewis is with Petzl and an avid rock climber. He lives near the rock he loves, Smith Rock. He loved it so much he moved just to be close to it. Being that he works with Petzl you can drill him on those gear questions that you have wanted answered. If you want to get up big climbs this clinic is a must. The faster and more efficient you are the more climbing you can get in. It is also safer. Less time on the rock cuts down on fatigue. Where if you are tired mistakes are easier to make. Also weather can shut you down on that climb that you have been dreaming and planning for months or years. So get signed up for this clinic so you can get the best training from experienced professionals. To participate in this clinic or enjoy some of the other events register at Climb Max Mountaineering at 928 Northeast 28th Avenue, Portland, OR‎ - (503) 797-1991‎ or visit the online registration site. Why is patience a virtue? Because not many people have it. Plaidman

Over the rainbow? That damn Dorthy. Got spanked on Little Wing today. I need more summer.