Peakpimp

Nice pics sps! Nope ivan no beer but maybe I should plan a creep spot to hide some from partners who would bail to raid the beer stash eh?

From a lost and found thread... hope its the same shoe

Nice pics marc... looks like ya had fun!

R.I.P.

You guys rock! I can't wait to get on that route

Nice TR. I'm gonna have to check that one out.

Don't forget the postal service too!

Awesome TR! I have to agree that pic of the McAllister icefall is badass!

Here this might offer some insight... s4iebOTJHTk

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I'm pretty much in the same place as you Roos2er. I'm looking to eventually do hard alpine trad but don't really have any friends that are interested in more than backpacking. Unfortunately I can't take the mountaineers course because I'm a full time student and unable to make the time commitment, and I can't afford a guide service for above mentioned reasons. I've read all the books, scrambled a lot of local peaks, met and climbed with more experienced partners and even scraped up enough cash to attend Mountain Gear's U Climb event being hosted at the Exit 38 crags near North Bend at the end of the month. Hopefully that will give me a solid enough foundation to feel confident when answering or posting messages seeking climbing partners. Although I am left to wonder the same thing as you; " How much experience would a newbie like myself need so that climbers(like the ones here) would feel comfortable adding you to there team?" It's the old you need experience to climb but need to climb to get experience cycle.

Georgia proves their as good at weightlifting as they are at war.

Freakin Awesome!

Maybe even give you a garbage bag full to keep quiet right?

Nice Job! I really enjoyed that climb, way to go!

Trip: Mt. Buckner - South Side Date: 8/14/2008 Trip Report: This being my first TR please bear with me A couple of weeks ago I received some exciting news that my regular alpine partner Dan was sending his fiancee to Michigan to see her family for a whole week! We quickly made plans to finally head back for another try on Mt. Buckner as we were denied on a previous trip in the summer of 06 on account of poor weather. We planned to leave Tuesday night after I got off work and thankfully the manager was out of the store that day allowing me to switch my standard 11-8 shift to a 10-6:30, score! I promptly arrived at Dan's place at 7pm. He and I were to be accompanied by our friend Randy who had been with us for Three Fingers and Mt. Adams, a fairly competent mountaineer I thought, although that assumption would soon be tested. We quickly loaded the gear while Dan exchanged some sweet parting words with his better half before heading out. Still needing that beloved back-country permit we decided to camp at Marble Creek campground on cascade river road Tuesday night so that I could drive down and grab one as soon as the ranger station opened on Wednesday which I did promptly. We were on the trail to cascade pass around 9am. snaffelicious After the tedious switchbacks up and over Cascade Pass we stopped for some water at the falls coming down from Doubtful Lake. The wildflowers were in full bloom! Still unable to locate Beckey's "miners path" to the upper horseshoe basin we simply scrambled up the falls. We set up camp in the upper basin and settled in for some JB Rye and music from Dan's portable Ipod setup... not a bad way to spend the evening! Morning with Ripsaw Ridge and Mt. Buckner over our camp. After a quick traverse of the upper basin we were soon ascending the snowfield on Buckner's South Side. Randy chose to stay at camp as he felt he lacked the energy to accompany Dan and I to the summit. Obligatory Summit Pics That's one big ass glacier After Dan showed me up with the standing glissades down the snowfields we headed back across the basin to camp. Upon reaching camp we quickly noticed that Randy had packed up his stuff and left! It had been our plan to ascend up to the Sahale Arm to head back to the car although it didn't look optimal to us from the basin so Dan and I had decided to scramble back down the falls the way we came up. Needless to say we were pretty upset when we arrived to find him gone, I mean seriously who leaves their party out in the mountains to head off alone? I had hidden a spare key near the car for an emergency so we hoped that he had headed for the TH to hang out and wait for us there. We quickly packed up the rest of the gear and made our way down the falls to the lower basin. At the bottom we passed a party of two climbers spending the weekend in the Cascade Pass area that said they had passed a lone fellow on the trail headed up the pass around 11am who claimed to have left his party and was headed back to the car, we were very relieved that to hear he had made it down safely. We hustled back up Cascade Pass and did the last few accursed switchbacks down to the TH under headlamps where we found our friend awaiting us in the car as we had suspected. We wearily berated him for leaving us up there although he partially redeemed himself by driving us home while my exhausted ass passed out in the back seat. Gear Notes: Crampons, Ice Ax, Partners that won't bail on ya. Approach Notes: Still couldn't find the miners path to the upper basin. The scramble up the falls was fun though.

awesome TR!!! I'm so jealous!

Looks like an awesome trip! Great pics too!

I love the up-close and personal of the snaffle. Oh yeah JB Rye > Black any day.

Id love to go with ya if I wasn't still such a noob

I just want to give a BIG thanks to Mattp for taking me out to climb yesterday, it was amazing and I can't wait for an opportunity to do it again. I feel that some solid 1 on 1 instruction from a competent practitioner is a great way to learn a new skill although as a student I think it is important to do as much of the research as possible before setting out, especially on something that is inherently dangerous. With all of the resources currently available in books, magazines, websites etc, there's no reason why someone couldn't know quite a bit before even attempting the activity. Hell I spent 2 hours re-reading FotH just before Matt showed up. For me I think it's just important to stay humble, and carefully put into practice the knowledge I can acquire from all available resources to execute sound judgment in a variety of circumstances. Thanks again Matt!

“Auto racing, bull fighting, and mountain climbing are the only real sports ... all others are games.” Ernest Hemingway

Ha Ha very Funny! Awesome TR though... Great pics!

I feel the best way to learn something new is to use all available resources; books, websites, *cough* forums, whatever classes/lessons are offered, friends with similar interests, and folks who just plain love _____ (insert subject here). I had already registered for a group beginner climbing event at the end of August before even posting here. Its just that the end of august is still a ways off and classes start for me again last week of september and I just want to climb so badly I figured if I could find someone with the patience/resources willing to show me the ropes I could learn a some of the subtle nuances that only come with years of experience and heaven forbid maybe make a few friends in the process haha.

Its kinda like when I go out to dinner with my parents, even though I know they'll pay (as I'm a "starving college student") when the meals finished I still do the "Courtesy Reach" for my wallet until they say don't worry we'll get it.