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el jefe

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Everything posted by el jefe

  1. the troglodytes have spoken. them no like quickdraws. got it. i'm with RuMR on this one: zzzz...
  2. impressive. those two climb at a completely different level.
  3. What you say is 'sorta' true..... but not really. Just the presence of bolts on a route immediately lowers both the commitment and the quality of a 'scary' route. Say for instance if you get scared you can just bitch out and clip/grab/stand on a bolt. When you start into a runout and there is truly no gear for the next 40ft and you also can't downclimb the moves it is 'full commitment' and 'engagement' with the rock. This is really what we are looking for when doing 'scary' routes. Generally I don't want to be scared, I am looking for that full commitment an engagement with the rock, and to climb calmly and cooly through difficult and committing runouts is one of the most amazing sensations imaginable in rock climbing.... maybe only to be topped by 'clucking' if you "bitch out and clip/grab/stand on a bolt", then that's on you, marc. if you were serious about wanting a "scary lead" then you won't, as you put it, "bitch out". if you do "bitch out", then i guess you weren't really after a "scary lead" after all. bottom line is if you want a scary lead then skip some clips or tie the rope around your neck instead of tying it to your harness. lots of opportunity out there to be scared if that's what you want. no need to go around making rules for everyone else to follow.
  4. no one requires you to clip the bolts on a sport climb or to use a rope, for that matter. if you want a "scary lead" all you have to do is skip some clips or leave the rope at home.
  5. one of the best routes at the upper wall. the second and fourth pitches are the money.
  6. Looooooooozer! a posting from pope himself! is the sleeping curmudgeon awake again?
  7. what does "natural protection" mean, anyway? do cams and stoppers grow on trees somewhere? my vote: who gives a fuck.
  8. don't worry, dave, i'm sure this group won't have any trouble finding something to argue about.
  9. i only use a helmet if i'm climbing ice.
  10. bravo, farrgo! well said.
  11. try viagra.
  12. more like bedwetter on tax day.
  13. buy the guidebook "central washington bouldering". it has info on gold bar and leavenworth and has really accurate, precise info on how to find scads of good boulder problems.
  14. shit, there goes the neighborhood...
  15. the peripatetic dr layton.
  16. pm sent
  17. so what's your point?
  18. SOMEWUNZ WENT GREEN !!!!MOAR GREEN JOBZ! They should be supportive in a George Soros kind of way? Big money every which direction. Anyway, you can relax, there's a lot less whining since the Kochs got their tax rates down. "Soros is a publicity hound who is transparent about where he shovels his money. And like many liberals — selflessly or foolishly, depending on your point of view — he supports causes that are unrelated to his business interests and that, if anything, raise his taxes" -- this from Frank Rich's article in last sunday's NY Times. the krotch bros., on the other hand, spend money bankrolling the dimwit teabaggers precisely because it benefits their business interests. that's a pretty big difference, bill.
  19. pm sent
  20. i believe "rise and fall" was greg child's route, but the phrase "hardcore strong" would apply to greg as well. i don't know anything about a second ascent. darryl cramer would be the person to ask.
  21. hmmm...kev's got a good point here. kkk makses quite a lot of posts re: sperm swallowing and bestiality...and he exhibits quite a lot of anger, too. classic signs of repression...hmmm...
  22. i'm guessing the correct spelling for "chirp" is "t w e r p" -- nicht wahr?
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