el jefe

not the only solution, ivan. another possibility would be to encourage jlag to check the guidebook before he runs through this theater of the absurd shouting "fire". the search for retrobolting dbags will just have to continue. false alarm this time.

yes, ignore the bolts and they'll wither and die of loneliness. in addition, you'll retain your dignity, at least in the eyes of raindawg -- and what, pray tell, could be more valuable to you than having the good opinion of the dawg?

I didn't think JL had his panties in a twist as much as he asking for info. He said he didn't want a shit storm, so maybe we can all play nice. For myself, I wasn't going to post as I hadn't seen the line, but figured that Smith has it's own little gig going. I would suspect that Danny and Steve wouldn't give a rats a** about it if they were to wander by. LOL... I did New Testament a month or so ago, folks wandered over asked if it was OK as I was starting to rack for it and I told them it's fine we can share - blah blah, but to go ahead. so he got a couple bolts up BBQ before I left the dirt...we literally had a traffic jam near the top and were eyeball to eyeball, he graciously insisted I go first as I had gotten to the base first and he'd been dogging his way up and wanted to hang and shake out anyway, but a fall from the crux of Testament as it then angled to the right and exactly over the top of this guy would have had been onto this fellas lap and not a good thing. This looks further apart. It would be nice if it had it's own rappel station where you could get down with a single rope though. unsurprisingly, billcoe has missed the point once again.

looks like jlag isn't the only one with his panties in a twist.

for a guy who doesn't want to start a shit storm, jlag, your post sounds an awful lot like a guy who wants to start a shit storm. the fact that there is a bolted route 8ft away from super slab is not the same thing as "super slab bolted?" by the way, many climbs share anchor stations. it isn't an unusual feature at many crags. it's no big deal, so don't get your panties in a twist over it.

i haven't yet seen the new olson guide but it must be some book if it is causing hordes of inexperienced climbers to forsake the gym and go running madly through the trees looking for toprope anchors at the dropzone.

mercatus center is a propaganda machine for the koch bros. leave it to billcoe to promote the values of the super-rich.

"vast majorities of countries".

a trip report about underage drinking? definitely a candidate for best TR of the month. hope it wins a prize.

pick colorado, not washington. much longer climbing season with more options. ice and mixed are more available and there are more rock climbing areas as well. cascades alpinism tends to be a long hike for a short climb and shitty weather to boot.

pull ups are vastly overrated for climbing. the sport emphasizes technique rather than sheer strength. being able to do more pull ups does not necessarily translate into climbing better or harder. go climbing as much as you can and try to improve your technique.

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i think timberline sells a single ride ticket that would get you to the top of the magic mile for $15. much cheaper than the snowcat rental.

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no more army, navy or air force, too. i say everyone just put up barbed wire and hunker down. then we can all live billcoe's vision of a paradise with no dang guvmint tellin' us what to do. that is all.

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i thought the laser picks definitely improved their performance on ice.

impressive that you have so many trips booked already. i'm going to suggest you pick utah for that october slot. october is pretty much the best month for rock climbing.

this assertion is not borne out by the facts: according to JosephH, roughly one million bolts per year are being placed in the US, so if we assume 10 bolts per route, then that means there are 100,000 new climbs every year as a result of the adoption of "sport tactics" -- and 100,000 new routes per year hardly amounts to a reduction in climbing access, but rather a considerable increase.

[quote=Good stuff djdan ! Messner was a badass of the century as JH noted above. He shares that distinction with some others as well. Everyone knows about the no O2 thing, but Messners free solo first ascent of what later turned out to be a very long and involved 5.9 in the Dolomites was nothing short of earthshaking. Of course, this in no way lessens the fact that Raindawg is still an ass..... there you have it, djdan, you've received the billcoe seal of approval -- one of the more prestigious honors here at cc.com.

djdan, i'm sorry to have to inform you that you definitely show signs of premature fuddy-duddy syndrome: you apparently have no sense of humor whatsoever, a fact which, taken together with such an advanced level of pomposity in one so young, points to a very poor long-term prognosis. you should seek help right away, although chances are good that it may already be too late for you.

mods, move this thread to the old fuddy-duddy forum please.

unlike you, suxcox, who undoubtedly reads everything before commenting? you haven't read it, either, so go fuck off, asshole.

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