el jefe

i believe pumpline is on careno crag, not snow creek wall.

is that "crack babies"?

currently available at black diamond's website for $159.96

V4 means a couple (or even just one) 12- moves. Close to the ground with generally no 'headspace' involved. The system generally goes like this. V0-5.10- V1-5.10+ V2-5.11 V3-5.11+ V4-5.12- V5-5.12 V6-5.12+ V7-5.13- V8-5.13 V9-5.13+ V10-5.14a V11-5.14b V12-5.14c V13-5.14d V14-5.15a V15-5.15 I can boulder V10, there is no way I can send 5.14a yet. But I can generally pull the crux move of a 5.14a though if I dog up to it, then take after I do the moves. Thats cool and all, but I like the ground-up approach. That makes no sense as a reply to what I just said!?!?! At all! I said that because it seems that you like to do one crux move of a route and then hang dog after it just so you can say you can climb that grade. summitchaser, i believe marc was merely trying to illustrate the way in which bouldering grades and route grades differ, not spraying about what he does or taking credit for climbing 5.14.

You need to give me a lap tour before I leave on the 21st. How about later this week? Ivan is giving tours of his lap? You South end guys are strange Teaching doesn't pay much so a little extra income is always good. hard to imagine ivan earns much money giving lap dances, but there are indeed some strange folk out there at beacon...

Those bolts might be residual anchors from the retrobolting of Dan's Dreadful Direct...rightfully chopped a few years ago. I think the choppers might have left them as a top-rope anchor for those not bold enough to lead it as was done in decades past (including clean ascents in the 1980's by the likes of Dan Lapeska). If they do protect Midway....they gotta go...that scary step-across has been a rite-of-passge for generations. If it's all about safety, better to stay home or in the gym. Or top-rope those suckers, which is easily doable. Those routes have evolved courtesy of nature - those "safety-points" were trees at the base of the routes - and me and numerous others have adapted to the longer run-outs and continue to cimb them. Add a bolt and I'll be in line, with alot of others, to make it disappear. By the time that happens, the ethical pendulum will have swung in our direction, toward a future where permanent additions to the rock environment will be shunned and rare. Get yur dang top-rope out and quit yur whinin'. (and us "bolt-police" are going to be around at least as long as you will!) okay, the balance of the universe has been re-established because now i disagree with raindawg again. thank goodness. i was feeling really confused there for a couple of minutes.

Those bolts might be residual anchors from the retrobolting of Dan's Dreadful Direct...rightfully chopped a few years ago. I think the choppers might have left them as a top-rope anchor for those not bold enough to lead it as was done in decades past (including clean ascents in the 1980's by the likes of Dan Lapeska). If they do protect Midway....they gotta go...that scary step-across has been a rite-of-passge for generations. If it's all about safety, better to stay home or in the gym. Or top-rope those suckers, which is easily doable. Those routes have evolved courtesy of nature - those "safety-points" were trees at the base of the routes - and me and numerous others have adapted to the longer run-outs and continue to cimb them. Add a bolt and I'll be in line, with alot of others, to make it disappear. By the time that happens, the ethical pendulum will have swung in our direction, toward a future where permanent additions to the rock environment will be shunned and rare. Get yur dang top-rope out and quit yur whinin'. (and us "bolt-police" are going to be around at least as long as you will!) okay, the balance of the universe has been re-established because now i disagree with raindawg again. thank goodness. i was feeling really confused there for a couple of minutes.

for once i find myself in agreement with raindawg.

peter, earlier in the thread you said this "Summit chaser when you fix this new bolt, might the Angel anchor need "chopping" as well?" then when i confronted you, you said this "I am not sure I am encouraging anybody to do anything" since you want to take refuge in semantics ("prod" vs "endorse"), then let me point out that these two statements of yours taken together are a pretty textbook example of a man speaking out of both sides of his mouth. and as regards what i want from a moderator, i'd simply like someone who sees it as his/her job to keep the peace rather than foment discord.

sweet, looking forward to seeing the photos.

this sounds pretty much like an endorsement of chopping to me. "fair and balanced" on the part of the mod? not so much.

On your knees boy what you address the Gods...show some fuckin' respect. who are you calling "boy"? look in the mirror if you want to see a boy, peter.

maybe peter puget should resume the role of mod and leave this issue to the leavenworth locals rather than prodding summitchaser to go on a chopping spree? seems to me telemarker knows the area pretty well.

there are mixed routes (i.e., gear + bolts) at beacon, joseph. is it okay to put up a mixed route there? plenty of examples already in existence.

got any pictures?

at least we finally accomplished something here.

i agree, bill. the disordered cacophany of the pdx scene must be really difficult for the leavenworthers to grasp given that their brains only work in a rhythm that goes oom-pa-pa, oom-pa-pa, oom-pa-pa-pa...

too bad pdx climbers are stuck with beacon rock instead of all those 25 foot long, 5.7 slab routes that dot the landscape in leavenworth. also, it is clear that our beloved river city down here is culturally over-matched by that faux-bavarian village to the north. indeed, is there any restaurant in portland that can match the ortega burger at gustav's or any route at beacon that rivals the amazing "classic crack" at 8-mile campground? i mean, how can a 75' 5.11 fingercrack like "free for some" compare with any of the classic lines at bruce's boulder? clearly lancegranite, sol and the other wannabe meth cooks living on the fringes of wenatchee are far better off than we poor portlanders. would that our lives could be so enriched and ennobled as theirs, living within sight and hearing of the downtown gazebo and oom-pah music of der leavenworthy!

Again, either your reading comprehension is suffering or you need a limbic system tuneup. There are no crag police down at here at Beacon, just a shared sentiment about it staying a trad area and remaining true to its history and legacy. There is no shortage of clip joints and jobs around and absolutely no need to turn Beacon into another one. And that's what IB is, just a standalone clip job, all-purpose sad monumnent, and a bold statement about some of the more pathetic aspects of contemporary 'climbing'. the great and wonderful oz has spoken.

j tree in july -- getting in shape for a trip to venus or mercury? it'll be 120 in the shade.

there's no questioning the quality of the spray, gym. it is definitely spray, and spray of a very significant standard as well.

classic.

blake, i think the saying goes "the proof of the pudding is in the tasting" -- unless they've got some other, upside-down way of saying it down in n.z.

Isn't that what he promised? Isn't that what libtards who elected him wanted him to do? Isn't that the great hope for what he would do, once he was elected? Where is the libtard outrage about Iraq now? i'm just trying to keep up with your flip flops: first you were in favor of putting troops into iraq when there was a republican president, now you are criticizing a democratic president because he hasn't pulled those troops out. does this mean that you admit putting the troops into iraq was a mistake to begin with, or are you just an unprincipled opportunist who changes sides in an argument whenever it suits his partisan purpose?

In recent times that would have been the war in Iraq... Which your empty suit president is still funding sounds like you are suggesting obama should pull out of iraq forthwith -- is that your point, kkk? "cut and run" your policy now?