el jefe

I like evidence rather than speculation. in truth there is no "evidence" on either side of this argument, so the reality is that you merely prefer your own speculations to those of other people. ondra the almighty hasn't yet deigned to visit your home crag of squamish, but there's no reason to take it personally. from the perspective of someone who is interested in pushing the limits of pure difficulty in climbing, north america in general has to appear to be a climbing backwater of sorts. i'm sure he'll eventually get around to ticking off all of our routes after he's finished gathering all the low-hanging fruit on his own continent.

on a positive note, we did get an opportunity to learn a couple of fashion tips from drederek.

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prana zion pants are probably what you are looking for. unless you are an 80s homophobe like drederek, in which case you should join him in the "shorts over long johns" look.

good job getting out on i-rock you guys. the mountain looked beautiful yesterday and i was wondering if i-rock was "in".

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stop being dense, rudy. everyone knows the reason the top sportos don't go to squamish is that they don't want to be seen struggling on apron strings, exasperator, etc. our granite routes are soooo much harder than anything those decadent euros have... besides, i still don't see how any of this red river gorge stuff is more interesting than plaidman's new route on the steeple.

how can any of this be more important than plaidman's new route at the steeple?

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i couldn't be more in agreement, rudy, but have to admit it also gives me a powerful urge to go up to leavenworth and start sprinkling the crags there with Xs...

my understanding is that the usual practice is to refer to hand moves.

'the "aging" climbing athlete' is a pretty vague concept in this thread: one poster mentioned he was 31 and another that he was 60.

i think john really nails it here. there is no formula that is guaranteed to yield the results you want. instead, you have to do some homework, take some classes, experiment with different things, etc. but foremost you have to be pretty clear about what it is that you are trying to achieve -- probably the hardest step of all.

looks totally awesome. nice trip!

nice link to the fuddyduddy forum on the taco, but are you thinking of cc.comers that qualify as all around yosemite 5.11 crack climbing experts or as tiresome windbags who whine ceaselessly about how things ain't so good as they were back in the day of the stonedmasters? seems like there are more than "a couple" on this site who qualify for the latter.

be sure to buy a pair of vintage EBs and don't forget to wear a shirt, eldiente. both are important elements of the tradman look. also, a bandanna on the head is highly recommended as well!

good advice from sol. work other aspects such as finger strength while waiting for the knee to come back up to speed.

your strength will come back surprisingly quickly if you avoid reinjury. initially you'll feel like you get pumped really quickly but that phase will pass after a few sessions. a month and a half off isn't a long break. how old are you? younger people bounce back much more quickly. the main thing is to not reinjure your knee. try a longer warm up phase of moderate problems before you try something hard. be willing to back off if something in the knee feels "not right". stay away from mountaineering. notoriously tough on the knees.

definitely looks like you had a fine day out. got to love the northwest in the summer!

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actually, "Am Limit" = "At the Limit"

what's that old saying about "a good craftsman never blames his tools"?

tito traversa. no telling where the upper limit really lies.

excellent vid, robert!

really, leashes are so passe'