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el jefe

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Everything posted by el jefe

  1. those bolts look like real museum pieces. they were up there a long time, i'll bet. glad it turned out okay.
  2. nice work, colin.
  3. don't bother with pull ups. just get out to hyalite. you live in bozeman so whatever washingtonians do to stay in shape for their short and fleeting ice season is irrelevant in your situation. besides, knees-to-elbows and toes-to-bar are more relevant climbing exercises than pull ups.
  4. awesome photos. good luck with school.
  5. so chicks are more attracted to tradsters than bolt clippers? interesting argument from the planet known as Buckaroo. some people climb because it is fun, others because they think it makes the opposite sex perceive them as superior breeding stock (i.e., "a stud"). if i've understood you, your argument is that the bolt on city park pitch 2 needs to be removed in order to ensure that human evolution doesn't stagnate -- is that about right?
  6. here we have an example of an advanced case of Raindawg-Pope's disease. DougT's friends need to intervene soon or he's going to start sounding like this guy.
  7. DougT is showing early signs of Raindawg-Pope's disease. if untreated, this disease is can lead to tiresome perseveration and an uncontrollable desire to bombard climbing threads with pictures of carebears, crowbars, and images of yakov smirnof. usually this illness presents as an offer to have a "discussion" in a "100% friendly and open minded way" when in reality no such "discussion" is forthcoming, but rather a ceaseless harangue regarding how the real truth can be found in certain obscure and dated climbing articles from the 1973 chouniard catalogue, etc.
  8. yes
  9. maybe not smart to leave the keys in the porsche overnight, dane, but the guy who drives off with the car can be charged with auto theft, which is a pretty serious felony offense. the perspective of raindawg and his ilk is that taking the draws left on a route is not stealing but rather some sort of example of being environmentally more aware or something. taking something that you know doesn't belong to you is stealing. regardless of why the draws are hanging on the route or how you feel about it, taking something that belongs to someone else means you are a thief. same as if i drive away in your porsche.
  10. I disagree with this. And as much as I disagree with Raindawg he is almost always kind and even keeled. I challenge anyone to find where he has attacked you by calling you names. This site absolutely needs folks like Raindawg. You always need the other side to be presented. IMO. I have had my draws taken from a climb I left them on. The only person to blame was myself for leaving them there. I would never post on this or any site requesting them back. It is no different than knowingly leaving them on the ground at the base of the climb then coming back a week later, then being pissed that someone took them. I have no problem with draws left hanging, just dont be pissed when someone else cleans them and takes them. The reality is you left them. there you have it: raindawg gets the kevbone seal of approval. high praise indeed!
  11. raindawg thread hijack no. 1,007,134: guy just wants his draws back turns into blah, blah, blah, decay of morality, end of the natural world, blah, blah, blah.
  12. Not done. nice action photo of the raindawg!
  13. this thread was imbecilic to begin with, jlag, so there isn't much i could have done to retard its development. basically all i've done here is point at the ridiculously misleading title you gave it and laugh. i'm also laughing at you for being in such a snit about there being a sport climb 8-15ft distant from a trad climb at an area famous throughout the solar system for sport climbing. if someone had put up a p.o.s. trad route 8-15ft away would you consider that a "squeeze job" as well?
  14. amen.
  15. not the only solution, ivan. another possibility would be to encourage jlag to check the guidebook before he runs through this theater of the absurd shouting "fire". the search for retrobolting dbags will just have to continue. false alarm this time.
  16. yes, ignore the bolts and they'll wither and die of loneliness. in addition, you'll retain your dignity, at least in the eyes of raindawg -- and what, pray tell, could be more valuable to you than having the good opinion of the dawg?
  17. I didn't think JL had his panties in a twist as much as he asking for info. He said he didn't want a shit storm, so maybe we can all play nice. For myself, I wasn't going to post as I hadn't seen the line, but figured that Smith has it's own little gig going. I would suspect that Danny and Steve wouldn't give a rats a** about it if they were to wander by. LOL... I did New Testament a month or so ago, folks wandered over asked if it was OK as I was starting to rack for it and I told them it's fine we can share - blah blah, but to go ahead. so he got a couple bolts up BBQ before I left the dirt...we literally had a traffic jam near the top and were eyeball to eyeball, he graciously insisted I go first as I had gotten to the base first and he'd been dogging his way up and wanted to hang and shake out anyway, but a fall from the crux of Testament as it then angled to the right and exactly over the top of this guy would have had been onto this fellas lap and not a good thing. This looks further apart. It would be nice if it had it's own rappel station where you could get down with a single rope though. unsurprisingly, billcoe has missed the point once again.
  18. looks like jlag isn't the only one with his panties in a twist.
  19. for a guy who doesn't want to start a shit storm, jlag, your post sounds an awful lot like a guy who wants to start a shit storm. the fact that there is a bolted route 8ft away from super slab is not the same thing as "super slab bolted?" by the way, many climbs share anchor stations. it isn't an unusual feature at many crags. it's no big deal, so don't get your panties in a twist over it.
  20. i haven't yet seen the new olson guide but it must be some book if it is causing hordes of inexperienced climbers to forsake the gym and go running madly through the trees looking for toprope anchors at the dropzone.
  21. mercatus center is a propaganda machine for the koch bros. leave it to billcoe to promote the values of the super-rich.
  22. "vast majorities of countries".
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