kevino
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Everything posted by kevino
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Thanks for the link John, cool stuff.
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Awesome to see Kyle still climbing hard.
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Or check the weather forecast.
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Another point to add: if you're all your climbing in the cascades it should be noted that it doesn't get that cold around here. On rainier it can, however are you going to be doing a winter ascent or wait till spring?
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What do people define double boots such as the phantom 6000, spantik and baruntse as? If you plan on doing lots of overnights a double boot could be more useful. On the other hand, if you do the majority of your trips in one push then a boot that fits well and you can move fast in is more important.
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how about the north ridge of forbidden?
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Nice work Scott. This one is on the ticklist for spring.
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I used a pair of scarpa technos for several years. Great shoe and hasn't been victim of the la sportiva inflation rate. Recently I got the five ten newton and have been happy with them.
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Trip: Harrison Peak - Standard Route with Keystone variation Date: 10/6/2012 Trip Report: Another selkirk adventure!! Nothing too exciting to report here. Fun mini mountain. Approach from car to base of climb took about 60 minutes. Lots of cracks to climb! Keystone variation is steep with a bit of lichen but has some real fun moves. Morning Harrison Peak Andy on the lower clean flakes and slabs Me on the lower corner Me about to top out And looking down Andy pulling the lower overlap/corner system Awesome summit Gear Notes: Don't bring your pipe!
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My 'frame' is a bivy sheet. Which I have used lots of times for a sitting pad or a part of my sleeping system. For what its worth i've never used the hip belt and never plan to. I still find there is minimum side to side movement with it. My last suggestion, just drive to PDX and check them out in person. If you're as close as google says you are, and you're that worried about it why not make the trip?
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just got back from another day of alpine climbing with my cilogear 30. contents: puffy, emergency shell, lwt hoody, thin socks, rock shoes, chalkbag, full rack, 10 draws, harness plus lockers etc, 2L of water, thermos of coffee, bag of food, think leather gloves, helmet plus ninja pocket with little goodies looked similar to this: when climbing looks like this (and this is with approach shoes inside for walk off): heres a few more to give you an idea of what it looks like to climb with 30l with varying amounts of content. I'm sure there are better packs out there for some people but i have been extremely happy with mine (other than the ski edge issue). hopefully this helps you decide fully loaded with overnight gear, etc and had all the climbing gear in it earlier
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Another +1 for cilogear. I kind of whored myself and have a 20L NWD, and a regular 30L and 45L. My only complaint after years of use is I ripped the side panels on my 30L with my ski edges with extensive A frame carrying. So I got a ski pack and fixed the slices and works great. To add with the 30 L: great ice tool slots. You can put compression straps wherever you want onto the pack. The thing hugs your body is and out of your way while climbing. I'm talking head clearance and shoulder/arm clearance.
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Everything about tieton is better. Less people, better rock, more styles of routes and just as good of weather (usually). Only difference is the climbing areas are spread out along the canyon.
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In college I knew some people that climbed hard at the crags and boulders. Two reasons come to mind. One, its much easier to have all your friends around and watch you take whippers at the crag. Two, its much easier to walk a couple hundred feet with a crash pad and smoke a bowl, then to hump a pack full of climbing gear and clothes and smoke a bowl.
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Rab Fusion pant. I had the model from three years ago with event. Got this years on sale with neoshell fabric and its even better than the last generation.
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Simple solution: be ready to do both. Source: a former big ice climber then skier who is now in grad school and will climb or ski with whatever free i get.
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The guidebook gives a rating of 5.7. I'd say its a fine alpine rating, however a feel a 5.7 leader would be out of place because of the mandatory runouts. A lot of this climb is face climbing because the crack isn't that great for climbing or taking pro. We did the route in 6 pitches, going 60m, 50m, 30m, 25m, 45m, 20m. The third and fifth required a bit of traversing hence the shorter lengths. The hiking guidebook says its 8 miles round trip to the lake, so maybe 10ish plus the extra elevation to the face. The trail is very easy, I think it took us about 9 hours round trip. Andy's pictures the roof on p2 Me with a stupid grin
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Trip: Cabient Mountains - Ojibway Peak - Standard Route Date: 9/22/2012 Trip Report: Since moving to Spokane for school at the beginning of the month, I have had a good time exploring some of the local cragging and the classic Chimney Rock Chimney Rock. Yesterday though, I got to venture into the Cabinet Mountain Wilderness area of Western Montana, which I personally had never heard of until I moved out here. The SW face of Ojibway caught my eye in the book, and it was an easy sell to Andy to go check it out. Unfortunately all the pictures have some degree of haziness from all the Central WA fires. If anyone wants more beta or to climb some of these other peaks I'd be happy to go back. The SW face: So we left Spokane early saturday morning and started hiking in some great fall colors in the early morning. Once you get up to Rock Lake, the mountains reveal themselves At the base of the route: follow the right facing corner, go through the roof, continue up cracks and face climbing to just left of the top of the face Looking down P2 at Andy coming thru the roof Andy following P3: Looking down P4: Andy climbing P4: The traverse to start P5: Andy following: You top out and have just a little ways to scramble up to the top. Good views of the surrounding peaks We capped off the trip with a nice dip in the Lake Gear Notes: Single set of cams and nuts. A #4 is not needed despite what the guidebook says. Approach Notes: Drive to Noxon, MT. Take FS 150 and it is smooth driving all the way to the TH.
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They pointed slightly, but they also forced my 2nd toe to curl and pinch the 2nd toe and big toe, which is where my discomfot came from. But a that probably has lot of do with my toes. My feet are otherwise pretty skinny and otherwise unremarkable regarding shape. I'm sure you already know this but five ten has a high top anasazi.
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Mark, I tried these on yesteday at Mountain gear. These were my street shoe size, 10.5. Fit: good suction cup sound when putting it on. Didn't feel like there was any excess volume, however my toes didn't fit right, hard to put into words but when climbing on their wall i kept experiencing a pinching pain. A size up would have produced too much extra space. I found the TC pro to have a better shape toe (for me), but fitting the same elsewhere, however still some discomfort in the toe. huecos I ended up getting the five ten huecos. They fit very snug but without pain and are similar to my beloved scarpa technos. Hope that helps a little bit. And for what its worth: My climbing preference is alpine rock and multipitch trad.
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[TR] hood/rainier climb/ski - NF and Liberty Ridge 6/10/2012
kevino replied to Going up?'s topic in Oregon Cascades
x2. looks amazing. -
WHAT A SHOCKING DEVELOPMENT! Hey Keenwesh, you going to be around bozeman thanksgiving and winter break time? Looking to make a couple trips back there this winter.
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[TR] Mt. Stuart - West Face Wall - Gorillas in the Blizzard 9/10/2012
kevino replied to Sol's topic in Alpine Lakes
Reminds me of both times I've climbed Prusik peak. Nice work. I miss the cascades already. -
For better snow plunging? whats the point?
