denalidave

the highlight for me was leading into that part, growing confused as to how in the hell i'd done this in the past, deciding to just pour more ommf into the solution, only to hear my right shoulder make a loud, painful pop - don't know that i didn't momentarily dislocate the fuckign thing as it's been days now and despite resting it, putting it in a sling, etc. it still hurts like hell and's lost much of its range of motion - nature's way of telling me to go back to aiding? Bummer dude. I hope it heals up soon. RICE it...

How did the wide section go? Pretty easy since Ivan lead it... The medium-wide section on Dastardly was where most of the crying was.

I'm confused, we have two JBs here... I never noticed till now they were the same, yet different. Will the real JB please stand up?

you'd just spend it on pirate-beer. Or Modelo Especial, Mexi-Pirate beer.

You all can just send me a dime, I don't need a $150k car. Could use some groceries though.

Sweet TR! Cheers!

Whatever, Dude, I was crying and hanging like a schoolgirl! Twas the suckfestestest performance ever! Had a good time anyway, though.

Keep me in the loop and look me up if'n any of you are near Beacon Rock.

OK, coffee's done, better quit spraying and go get some BACON, or more likely, have BACON get me...

THAT is Beacon?? THAT is a ROUTE?? THAT IS WHAT ALL THIS SPRAY IS ABOUT?? THAT IS THE "OTHER" BEACON... THE UNWANTED STEP CHILD OF THE NORTH SIDE. YOU CAN HAVE IT. AT LEAST ALL SUMMER.

Yikes! Those thunderstorms roll in like clockwork in that area... late afternoon is NOT a good time to be out on a spire with a bunch of metal jingly jangly crap...

Yeah, that is the one. I just don't remember it. I'm glad to hear it was not a new bolt. I'd forget my head if it wern't nailed on...

Are you saying there is now a bolt above the p4 crux bolt and slab pin? If so I'll take care of it Sat/Sun night when I do it. Yes, it was not even tightened up all the way. Maybe it was below the pin but I'm pretty sure I remember it above the pin on the next bulge/roofy area. Either way, it was brand new and I doubt Jim or the other FAs would approve.

Can we see a picture? Mine are looking sort of trashed now - maybe I need more. Does that mean you are gonna donate the old, useless ones to a noble cause (me)?

Good for you! If you make it out to the West end of the Gorge, us locals can give you the tour at Beacon. I was out of climbing for a decade after getting hitched. Got back into it 06 and now really enjoy my time out so much more than when I was young and free. Hoping my kids will want to get out soon too.... They are 7 and 5 (both girls), although I think my youngest is the one that will end up liking climbing. Send me a PM if you are headed this way.

Those were nice to belay off of today, no need to fuss with all that trad gear crap, but what would the DAWG say?

I like steak and BACON... MMMM BACON STEAKS!!!

Crackman ended up making it out and we made a run up YW. I did a bit of scrubbing on P3 but we did not get off the ground till around 7 PM, so we had little time for scrubbing. All in all, it did not seem nearly as dirty as described. A few more laps and it should be as good as ever. What's up with the new shiny bolt above the slab crux on P4 of YW? I don't recall any bolt/fixed gear there before (other than the old pin that is so tempting to stand on). The bolt was very loose and I tightened with my fingers before clipping it. Did the FA approve of the bolt??? Or, maybe there was already an old rusty bolt that was replaced and I just don't remember it???

Ditto

I came across this on Craigslist... Not sure of any details, other than what is posted in the add. "Looking for a professional rock climber in the area to help with a demolition project. Interested parties please email klecher@midwestdemo for a picture of the jobsite. We are looking for someone in the next few days. Must have gear, and experiance in climbing. Also the climber will be assisting in removal of debri. Please call Katie at 4024751600. Compensation is negotiable." Craiglsist Add Linky

Why do I have to look just like JH, that's not fair.

BRSPFPA! Seems like it is fairly easy to jump through the hoops, but I've never been involved with it. I also heard or read that you can do the paperwork after the fact if the bolts/fixed pro were necessary for safety reasons. Perhaps you could go through the BRSP Climbing Plan and find out for yourself? I used to have a copy and was going to attach it, but I can't seem to locate the PDF on my PC. Justnip should have a copy though. He's the one that fwd it to me last fall/winter. Full disclosure... Under no circumstances should my spray be relied on as fact, partial fact or truthful whatsoever. I have a limited capacity to remember facts, just ask my wife. The reader should rely on their own research and fact checking before challenging the MAN and his policies.

Either that, or I was going to do the first 2 pitches of the corner, then rope solo pitch 3 of YW, fix my line and scrub away. Not sure if I have enough daylight to go that route as I am still a novice at the whole rope solo thing and it takes me a lot longer than it should.

OK, good to know. I was thinking of either coming down from the ramp on the corner and build and anchor where the corner & YW meet so I could then get to the top of P3 in the alcove with the fixed pins. Fix a single line that I could then re-climb after I cleaned it. I just don't want to re-invent the wheel if there is an easier way. Seems like one 70m rope would work if it was fixed at the top of P3, but yeah, rapping to pitch 3 seems problematic, at best. Might be easier to do it in smaller sections?

So, back on topic... If I go scrub YW later this eve, can I do it with just one 70 M rope? Just pitch 3, or all of P 1-3? Where exactly are these new anchors that I presume are available to use for this task? Thanks.