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Everything posted by denalidave
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Jill's Thrill rapp anchor not on topo?
denalidave replied to rl23455's topic in Columbia River Gorge
You can also rap to snag ledge from the top of the first pitch of Jill's (at the base of the Crazy Horse finger crack - Yosemeti Ledge, not at the top of Tooth Fairy) in one long rap with a 70 meter rope. Be sure to be exactly on the middle of the rope as it BARELY makes it to snag ledge. In fact, you have to come off the end of the 70 meter rope, but you can reach the belay anchor slings on Snag Ledge so it is not at all scary or dangerous (as long as you know it beforehand). -
I used to have some powdered milk that was whole milk. Now that it is all gone, I can't find anyone that carries it (though I have not done much research, just checked a few grocery stores). That stuff was waaaayyyy better than the standard non-fat dry milk. BTM (Better than Milk - soy based dried product) is not bad either but I can't remember how it tasted in coffee as it has been years since I used the stuff.
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[TR] Mount Stuart - Complete North Ridge 7/26/2010
denalidave replied to Peter McCorkell's topic in Alpine Lakes
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I gave up the real coffee long ago on the trail and just go with the fu-fu instant mixed stuff. No, not quite as good as a latte from you barista, but no hassle. I still use the Stove Top Espresso Gizmo at home or car camping, as well as the battery operated milk whisker from IKEA, I think they are about $2 IKEA Frother The next best thing is a good french press (IMO)... As a matter of fact, I'm slurping a scrumptious latte made with the above tools right now. MMMMMMM, coffee!
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Beacon Rock will be open the weekend of 17th-18th
denalidave replied to JosephH's topic in Access Issues
Uh oh, here we go... -
[TR] North Buttress (IV, 5.10), Bear Mtn - 7/31/2010
denalidave replied to Steph_Abegg's topic in North Cascades
Very nice Steph, as usual. Love the night photos. -
Why is Beacon Rock in the Oregon Cascade's Section
denalidave replied to MrGecko's topic in Climber's Board
"BECAUSE THE BEST CLIMBING IN OREGON IS IN WASHINGTON, AT BEACON ROCK". -
Why is Beacon Rock in the Oregon Cascade's Section
denalidave replied to MrGecko's topic in Climber's Board
But no one has said the real reason... "BECAUSE THE BEST CLIMBING IN OREGON IS IN WASHINGTON, AT BEACON ROCK". That is what I have always been told, anyway. -
Beacon Rock will be open the weekend of 17th-18th
denalidave replied to JosephH's topic in Access Issues
Kenny, I see you seem intent on keeping on a roll here. Hey, the loose rock load just above Grassy Ledges up to the short chimney had built up to a ridiculous level and sending grapefruit size rocks down to the SE Corner's base. Could have been cleaned out or stacked earlier during the pre-open work session, but of course (surprise) it somehow just didn't happen. But what the hell, you just keep at it here, it's so damn productive and helpful. Lucky for us Beatards, we have some outstanding youths in the area that volunteered, without anyone even asking them, to get rid of a bunch of rocks from the top of the Dutchman... Wow, they were even nice enough to throw down some beer cans too, although the beer was mostly gone by the time they sent them down to us climbers. Still, it was a very nice gesture on their part. Good to know we have such fine, outstanding and considered youths looking out for us and making it "safe" for the rest of us... -
Wow that CF stuff really works... Look at the size of yer guns! I'm here to Pooommmp You up!
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CROSSFITTING AND REMOVING EXCESS BODY PARTS IS AID!
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Faiding ducking imerclaiys
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Because TAPE IS AID, dammit! AND, those damn aid climbers are the dirt-baggiest of all the dirtbags...
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LOL, but maybe you should change your sig to "keep the STROKE alive" (spoken in a dumb ass dude with his pecker in a pipe voice) for that post? Just say'n.
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That's good advice. You probably got no response about adding guy points on the walls because it is a bad idea. The (formerly) Malibu Epic 1.6 oz fabric that BD used on that tent and its replacement is not strong enough to handle the stresses that a mid-panel anchor point would create. That is why the only guy line attachments on the BD tents are at the seams, and close to the ground to boot. Take a look at the Bibler tents and you'll see that the mid-panel anchor points are reinforced. Trying to turn an ultralight BD tent into a 4-season Denali tent is like trying to drive a sports car across the Sahara Desert. In both cases you'll end up with a lot more holes in it than when you started. duly noted Why spend all the money on over-priced brand name crap anyway? We all now know you can get a MalWart put tent, for like, $19.95. From what I've read here, it's pretty much functionally equavelant to most expensive, brand name tents all the wanna-bees buy to look cool...
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Beacon Rock will be open the weekend of 17th-18th
denalidave replied to JosephH's topic in Access Issues
Cool. Ditto on the thanks. -
Beacon Rock will be open the weekend of 17th-18th
denalidave replied to JosephH's topic in Access Issues
Thanks Joe. -
[TR] Mt. Garfield - Infinite Bliss 7/14/2010
denalidave replied to flashclimber's topic in Alpine Lakes
Nice! -
Come on out to Beacon Rock and get Beatarded with us. Welcome!
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Funny, as over the past few years I have discovered just the opposite. When I lead roped up, I'm always thinking back at my last piece... "is it good, will it hold". That consumes a lot of energy. When soloing, you ARE the next piece. It is so much more simple, therefore, easier. At least on easy ground. Speed is safety on bigger climbs, so some low level solo skills could be a potential life/epic saver. Or, you could get hit by a mack truck and die on the drive to the climb. When yer number comes up, yer number comes up...
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WTF's the deal with the price of used aliens?
denalidave replied to Alpinsanity's topic in Climber's Board
Yes, thanks. I'm holding out till they reach $200/ea, then you can get my original model aliens. Till then, I doubt I will use them but they have plenty of sentimental value. I may rack them up if we need em though... -
WORD. Just throw a 30m rope in yer sack and a few nuts and then you can say you have all the gear you need, IF you NEED it... OK, side note. I just went and did my first rope-solo attempt of the year and got spanked. Mainly due to my head not being fully committed, even though I've led this easy climb many times and never felt insecure or gripped on lead. As a consolation prize, I ran the usual solo lap, which was an entirely refreshing and worthwhile way to spend 40 minutes covering about 1,000 ft (a few sunset breaks along the way). Yeah, a bit of butterflies on the ground, as usual, but soooo much more comfortable and easy than the rope solo. No heavy rack, no cumbersome roped up set up, just easy, fast and safe climbing. So glad I took option A instead of of Option B, trail running to the top...
