rob

funny, I was gonna post on that thread. I need a few more weeks of good weather still. Snow can wait. But I decided not to post it because I figured somebody would get their panties in a twist.

Before work? After work? Skip work?

Yeah, but I hear you can order that stuff cheap from Canada.

I haven't noticed people being taught to belay improperly. Maybe that's more common in sport crags, or maybe I'm just not paying attention. One thing I do see all the time though is newer (or sometimes older!) leaders placing active gear "sideways" -- not alligned in the direction of anticipated pull, but perpendicular to that pull. I've heard many of them say, "oh, the cam can always just rotate. And besides, it's a flexible stem!"

does the Rooster know about this?

Didn't we already have a long spray about this? Maybe someone who actually knows how to use the search function can find it?

Smurf? Don't you know a fraggle when you see one? check yer email. Why aren't we at Index, sucka? Where you been, anyway? TR?

Don't let them get your goat.

When you started climbing, had the mountains even formed yet?

I have the Mantas, I love them. I use them both winter and summer. I regularly snow-seal the crap out of them and they're super dry, even in sloppy spring snow.

It certainly can't be because of contempt for free speach, democracy or the free market. Are you talking about Putin, or Ahmadinejad?

Nice! Sounds like the rock wasn't too bad. I was surprised by the massive quantity of absolutely shitty rock in the Baileys. Talk about rubble!

This is gonna be great. Nobody better fucking talk about the weather or they'll jinx it. Oops.

Fucker. You're cramping my style.

Man rips head off duck I wonder if this Humane Society spokesman is a vegan?

Would you rescue them, or just "laugh as they slide down the mountain"?

pics?

Yeah, I was wondering if the block was big enough to bounce down and flatten someone's car. Don't pull that shit if Ivy is around! She's already mad at you for making fun of her.

no, buttlips is that flared chimney below the roof, and above the 5.8 inside corner.

Trip: Index - Various Date: 9/23/2007 Trip Report: Hit up Index yesterday with Lukic. I was hoping to lead my first Index 9, but I'm not quite ready yet. Looks like I gotta do some more following. Lukic warmed us up on Ultrabrutal, and then I led the first pitch of Roger's Corner (super easy). I was tempted to give the 2nd pitch a go (looks easy from below!) but I pussed out and we bailed and hiked over to the Narrow Arrow. Climbed Narrow Arrow Standard -- P1 is super loose. Second half was moss-infested. Crapy climbing, waste of time. Bailed at the top of the arrow. I was hoping to lead Quarry Crack, but we top-roped it and I found it pretty athletic. Maybe a couple more laps and I'll lead it. Went back and did Aries. I led the fist-crack and open-book for the umpteenth time. Half-way up the open-book, my hands were cramping up (dehydrated?) and I sewed that thing up like a surgeon. Lukic lead butt-lips in good style. Somebody slung a huge block at the top of Butt-lips! We were losing daylight so we bailed from there. What a strange place for a bail anchor -- the roof above the chimney is super fun, and easier than the chimney. Someone missed out on the funnest part of Aries! I'll get that 9 lead soon! It's all in my head.

I don't use a leash. I never remove my device from my HMS biner. My biner is big enough that I can just move the device to the side and clip the rope without actually removing it. I've never really worried about it. Seems a leash would get in the way, but I see lots of people doing it so it must not be too bad.

partner found, thx everyone

bump weather should be nice....

Hey, anybody up for Index on Sunday? 8s and 9s?