rob

Hey, I know! If it's such a big fucking deal to you, why not stop wanking off and instead put your money where your mouth is and go chop the thing. Just saying.

I love my alp wings, for me they are great for lower angle alpine stuff and they self-belay pretty good because they're not super bent. But, they don't do me any favors on steep water ice -- heavy and not enough curve for steep stuff/bulges, etc. I've used the aztars, they seem like pretty good tools, too.

PraNang is definitely the best beach. There is good climbing there, too. If you walk to the end of pranang beach, there are a bunch of routes. I forget what they call that section. I think it's basically the other side of the Thaiwand. Anyway, it's in the book. Good routes, too -- 9s to 12s IIRC. It's at the end of the beach, on the other end away from the penis cave (yes, it's full of penises). There is a trail wandering through the trees up to the cliffs that are obvious from the beach. You can't miss it, just walk towards the end of the beach until you run out of beach and see the trails leading through the trees to the cliffs above you. OH! I forgot to mention. MONKEYS. Those little fuckers will actually open your pack and steal your shit if you don't lash everything closed. And watch for snakes, especially if your little one is wandering. One more tip: On the trail from Railey East to PraNang, you will notice a little trail/scramble on your left. Follow that shit. It's not kid safe, as you'll have to use a bunch of old hemp handlines to scramble up the slick mud/clay/dirt, and hand-rappel down some small rock bands, but anyway, the trail leads to this hidden cove, accessible only by this trail. SUPER FUCKING COOL. Bring a little something-something and enjoy the scenery.

The last time I checked the index of ANAM, it listed falls on rock/ice as the majority cause of accidents (IIRC). I guess it didn't say if they were falls on the ascent or descent, though... but there was a separate section for rap accidents, and it was less than falls (again, IIRC).

Part of my toenail is still black from walking off R&D in my rock shoes several years ago. Fucker won't come off.

Ken, the ropes were in fine shape. And, if you want a guide, you'll have no trouble finding one. They're everywhere, like locusts. You'll have to swipe them off yr shoulders as you climb. But, you'll have no trouble hooking up with a partner in tonsai if you'd rather not pay for a guide. I found a partner in like, 5 seconds. If you don't go anyplace obviosuly seedy in Bangkok, you'll be fine. I didn't think it felt any different than New York in terms of safety. If you're street smart, the same rules apply. I was there with kids, too. In Bangkok, if you're there for the weekend, definitely check out the chatuchak market. It's INSANE. Or, if you're not there for the weekend, check out the night bizaar. I never got to see the floating market, but it's supposed to be cool. Check out the grand palace while you're in Bangkok. But they have a strict dress code there -- no shorts, no tank tops, no exposed feet (wear shoes, or if you wear sandals, you must wear socks.)

I was gonna climb yr mom but the line for the first pitch was too long.

I don't seen why it matters if they ban toy guns. I mean, cops will just go on killing anyone and everyone, for no reason, REGARDLESS OF CIRCUMSTANCES. OMG THEY'RE OUT OF CONTROL!!!!

poor guy

I was in Suk 11 with two young children, it was very chill. YMMV

I don't think the sole basis is if the cop feels threatened. I think that's a total oversimplification of the laws governing the use of deadly force by police officers. A quick google search confirms that most states/cities have their own regulations on this, and almost ALL of them state (pretty specifically) that deadly force is only authorized if the officer's or another's life is in danger, or to stop certain crimes (homicide, kidnapping, etc.) So, what it really comes down to, is if the prosecutor decides the cop was justified in feeling like his or someone else's life was justified. Or, in many cases, as many of these police ARE charged (despite your apparent belief that they never are) -- the jury has to believe if they were justified in feeling so threatened.

Oh, and bring DEET. For real.

Railay, for sure. Ton-sai is sort of the defacto climbing hangout there, but there are other good areas too. Pick up a climbing guide at King Climbers at Railay when you get there. You can rent a rope there, too -- so you don't have to lug your rope and bother getting it fucked by the salt and UV. Check out Groove Tube (6a). Great fun. Most climbs are in the 10a range or higher, it seems. I managed to find some 9s. It's all in the french rating system so it's retarded anyway. Bring old sections of rope to replace tattered threads (some climbs are protected with rope/cord threaded through natural holes in the limestone, but the salt and UV degrades these pretty quickly. I broke one with body-weight). Bolts: Try to pick climbs retro-bolted with new titanium glue-ins. You can tell because they are U-bolts, and they use a kind of pink-glue. Or, pick climbs protected with threads, and plan on replacing some of them, or at least re-tieing the bullshit knots some euro-sportie used (I saw one loop made with a square knot!) You can get digs at Tonsai, or in the Highlands there are some cheap bungalows. There are resorts on Railay East and West which are VERY nice and actually not too expensive, if you've got some money. While you're in Railay, check out the Stone Bar (there is a wicked night life at the bars in Railay). Also, if you're looking for something to smoke, ask the bartender at the Gecko bar. He'll hook you up. Or, you can ask any of the million Thai bob marley look-a-likes. Despite what you've heard, don't expect quality. Oh, and don't fuck with that shit in Bangkok. For real. You'll go to jail for, like, ever. Bangkok: Don't bother with khao San road unless you don't want to see Bangkok and only want to see rich European tourists with fake dreads and too much money. Get a room at Suk 11 hostel, or at Phranakorn-nornlen instead. You can find their contact on the web. Phranakorn-nornlen is much nicer, but Suk 11 is kind of more central (I found). They're both fucking nice, and cheap. Take my advise. Also, check out the Grand Palace while you're there. If you really want to find something to smoke in Bangkok, check out the raggae bars on Trok Mayom road, near Khao San road. But be careful. Taxis in Bangkok: Make sure your driver agrees to use the meter. He'll almost always try to negotiate some fixed price. Don't -- it will almost always be higher than the metered price. Many drivers will refuse to use the meter. Let them leave. Another driver will take his place, and you'll find one who will use the meter. But if you're there for a few days, you might just get a sky-train pass. It's more convenient for long treks in the city. When buying trinkets and stuff from street vendors or at the flea markets, ALWAYS negotiate. It's expected. However, in western-style shops (like the mall) you don't. Stay away from the fucking malls anyway. WTF? When in Bangkok, check out the Chatuchak Market -- it's only on weekends, but it's FUCKING CRAZY HUGE and you can find anything. Don't forget to negotiate. I usually just cut their price in half and start there. They'll laugh at you, but they expect it. Also, strangely, you can just say "Best Price?" and they'll come down quite a bit. Also, you can check out the night bazaar (Suan Lum?). It's pretty cool. If you have extra time, take a flight up to Sukothai. There are ~thousand-year-old ruins of the ancient Thai capital and old temples, and it's fucking amazing.

wow porter, that must be some video, it's already unavailable....

Like, cops have NEVER been charged with battery, manslaughter or other criminal offenses linked to police brutality. They ALL just get a free pass, REGARDLESS OF CIRCUMSTANCES!!

Dude, you're so full of shit it must be seeping out your eyes. Sure, police brutality is real and I'm no fan of the swine, but you are so way over the fucking top you sound like a total asshat. Regardless of the circumstances? You actually believe that? So, you believe a cop could walk up to a 5 yo girl at a school crosswalk, and for no reason at all fire 50 bullets into her head, and he would be legally protected, REGARDLESS OF THE CIRCUMSTANCES? Fucking hyperbole

badass brother. Nice work You've been missing some beautiful days in leavenworth! When are we going?!

P.S. I've climbed with this joker, he gives a fine belay. Someone go out with him. I would myself but my life sucks right now

the 5.7 crack (corner flash) across from toxic shock is not a good lead for a beginning leader, IMO. I find that the protection is kind of funky near the deck. Maybe you're thinking of who put the purr in my pussy? That's nearby, and a good climb, I think it goes at 5.8

Thanks for bringing buns, porter! Can I stick my wiener in them?

yay! Medium is my size.

do you have any in size ROB?

woot! Who's excited to see me? You know you are. I'll be bringing some nathan's hotdogs, a few vegan sausages, and my amazing wit and charm.

I had plans up there next weekend, but the weather is looking unfriendly.... Ivan, could you talk to somebody about that for me? KTHXBAI

I was going to solo reality bath but I got to the base and decided it was too moderate for me.