montypiton

I use the Kiwi coil with both single ropes and doubled twin ropes, and in my experience, the two strand configuration makes no functional difference - just saves weight. I finish off my Kiwi coil with an overhand-on-a-bight tied AROUND THE COIL, like a mule knot, at my chest, then clip the tail of the bight to my harness tie-in point with a locking carabiner. (tie into the end of the rope in the standard way, then coil towards the middle of the rope and tie the "mule-on-bight" at the point you stop coiling. make your coils somewhat snug, and this rigging turns the coils into a functional chest harness which shares any loading with your climbing harness. (holding you upright, even with a big pack, in the event of a crevasse, or any, fall) If I recall correctly, this is what I saw originally presented to the California region of the AMGA in the Buttermilks back in '88, by S.P. Parker, for whom John Fisher (then owner of Palisades School of Mountaineering in Bishop) proposed the name "Kiwi Coil" (because S.P. is from New Zealand) Younger generation AMGA guides tell me S.P presents the technique these days with a perfectly straight face never alluding to his connection with the name, but I get a kick out of telling the story - a bit of "myth-making"...

yoga and tai-chi have been helpful for me after significant back trauma (after initial healing/rest of course) also, the Tregor massage method has worked magic for me, and may be helpful earlier in recovery before the yoga or tai-chi would be appropriate. If you have trouble locating a masseur/masseuse skilled in the Tregor methods, I know a very well connected source in Leavenworth who can probably recommend someone in your area... email me if you'd like me to hook you up with her. curthaire@nwi.net

although even the simplest ring moves can be extremely challenging for even a relatively strong newbie, I've had decent results reducing the intensity (load) by supporting my body weight in hanging loops of heavy-duty (half-inch diameter) bungee cord. Coastal Farm & Ranch carries it on reels - buy it by the foot. my ring apparatus is one-inch tubular nylon webbing threaded through four-inch lengths of half-inch pvc pipe for grips, adjustable via cam buckle. total investment less than $10 - hangs from the rafters of my workshop. with the bungee assist, I also work many of the classic ring moves on rock-rings to build up fingers. at my age, I'm not sure it improves my climbing performance, but I'm convinced it protects me from hurting myself when I try to climb "hard".

I tried the suggested google search, but only managed a giggle... to quote clinical psychologist Glen Frese: "well what do you expect!?! you're brain-damaged!!!"

Corresponding with Eddie Espinoza regarding this event, I've identified some interest in, and support for, an "exhibition" category for "Crippled-up Old-Farts". Dr. Mark Shipman, who has broken his neck twice (the first time he was so completely paralyzed that a month after the injury, he phoned a colleague to gleefully announce "Tom! I'm gonna be okay! I FARTED today!!!) and still climbs well into the 5.10 and WI5 ranges at age 66 has tentatively committed. Glen Frese, once arguably the premiere waterfall ice climber in the Pacific Northwest, paralyzed below the sternum since a bicycling accident in the mid-nineties is a maybe - Glen may be paralyzed below the chest, but he WALKS with the aid of two canes. I'm working on Dave Jaecks, who in his mid-seventies cruises 5.10 on two fused ankles. Steph Abegg has not yet replied to my invitation. Katie Kemble is a long-shot, but ya never know... I'm workin' on it... If you are - or anyone you know is - one of these "miracle recoveries", please join us in an inspirational celebration of the benefits of the mountaineering lifestyle. PM me and/or respond to AAC-PNW to get in on the action. -Haireball

asking price? size?

I'm wearing Trango Primes. Check out the "go-to alpine/glacier boot" thread - good stuff there, too... then try on every boot mentioned in both threads and buy the one that feels like you were born in it - then spend the extra on having a custom insole fitted. the up-front investment may feel a bit much, but I can pretty much guarantee you won't regret it...

I prefer a lighter boot than the Sportiva Nepal (although if the Nepal fits you well, it could be the last pair of boots you ever need to buy), but I still want a rigid-sole boot that accepts clip-on crampons, which leaves out the Trango-S. I currently use Trango Primes, which not only handle rock climbing to 5.10 better than I do any more, but are exceptionally "walkable" for a rigid-sole boot. Over the years, I've been happy with Lowa and Garmont as well. I have partners who swear by Scarpa, but my low-volume feet have swum in every model Scarpa I've ever tried on. My eldest son loves Kayland. Fit is key. Shop around and hold out for the boot that feels like you were born in it - then have a custom insole fitted. Superfeet Corks may seem expensive at first blush, but my first pair lasted me 20+ years, outlasting three pair of top-flight alpine boots. Like Mr. Olsen, I'm pretty picky about my alpine boots... one of my biggest pet peeves is each time I've found the perfect boot, it has lasted just long enough that it's no longer made when I need to replace it!

everything markwebster says, plus two items: Ocun makes a version of handjammies that is a fraction of the thickness of the American product - hardly more than a thick tape job. In my dotage, I don't climb enough to keep my skin tough enough to climb "harder" cracks barehanded. I ordered my Ocun crack gloves from an outfit in Vancouver B.C. if your pain is muscle/cramping, focus on achieving jams that are "skeletal" - when "cupping", place your thumb in your palm to create a "skeletal stack" that requires no muscular contraction to maintain. same goes for fingers - don't flex 'em, stack 'em. This tip from crackmeister Dennis Horning at Devils Tower, took my crack climbing from 5.9 to 5.11 back in the seventies... it's also the principle behind "Leavitation" - the offwidth technique pioneered by Randy Leavit. I don't quite comprehend pain associated with fist-jams, but my hands are enormous and meaty, like Mr. Webster's above - thin finger cracks might as well be knifeblade cracks for me... a caveat: my suggestions may be suspect because I've been repeatedly told I have a "stupid-high" pain tolerance (no brain - no pain??)

I experienced no such difficulty climbing with 50+ lb packs on the Cassin Ridge and the South Face of Aconcagua... but I was using a pretty low-profile harness -- something similar to the Bod, but slightly more primitive, and with no padding. It was manufactured by a now extinct outfit DBA "Rock Bottom Enterprises". I have not climbed with such a heavy pack over a modern padded harness. So based on my own experience, I'd say if you're climbing with expedition loads, you want the lowest-profile harness you can find.

affirmative - I occasionally do strap my 1970s vintage Salewa Adjustables on tennies for short summer snow/ice approaches to alpine rock climbs - and have been scared spitless from time to time when ice has been firmer than expected... I've learned to carry a couple of screws regardless of how easy I anticipate the climbing to be... Keenan - please check my most recent troll for partners -- I expect to be in your neighborhood Labor Day Weekend. If we can hook up, I could deliver a hammer, and maybe more hardware (I haven't inventoried yet)

Friends, I am looking for a partner for Labor Day weekend, to climb in the Tetons, Sawtooths, or even as far east as Devils Tower. My wife has accepted a temporary assignment at a native american medical clinic in Wolf Point, Montana, (Montana / North Dakota border) starting the day after Labor Day. I am driving her to Pocatello, ID next Wednesday/Thursday to collect a car from her parents. I don't have to be back for work until Tuesday of the following week. I do have partners from the ancient days in the Tetons, but they're all Exum guides, and I am reluctant to ask them to pass up a day's paid work to climb with an old fart they haven't seen in twenty years. As a few of you may know, I published the original guidebook to Devils Tower, and still correspond with Frank Sanders, who now guides there, but I warn you, I haven't climbed there since 1977. Anybody out there interested in accompanying an old fart reliving his lost youth? 509/433-6401 -Haireball

Buckaroo - rig was a 60m Mammut twin-rope, maybe 8.1mm? I do not recall the exact model name (I don't fixate on the exact model names of my ropes) but I can assure you that it was a 60m Mammut twin rope, and it felt like it stretched FOREVER. This was an embarrassing episode, and frankly, pretty disconcerting, because I had been toproping on single-strand twins for years before this, and had never had a problem. Climbs had either been shorter - so less rope in service; or not so steep - so load was reduced. On this particular instance, the climb was past vertical, so no reduction in loading. There was no slack in the belay, but neither was the belay pre-tensioned. I weigh about 180, call it about 200 with boots, crampons, ice-tools, winter clothing. The key takeaway from this incident, for me, is that TWIN ropes are designed to be loaded with two strands sharing the load. HALF ropes are engineered to be loaded as a single strand. I've favored twins over the years for the weight saving, but I have been dangerously careless in my deployment of them. I am pleased to see that technology may be evolving to cover for me, as I see more and more "double" ropes certified for use as both half and twin (impact force meets criteria for certification as twin-rope, while single-strand load capacity meets criteria for certification as half-rope). Hell, Beal and Mammut even have ropes that meet the criteria for all three certifications as twin - half - single (I believe the Beal Joker was the first rope to achieve this distinction) so I really have no excuse for what I was doing. Genepires - I had done the same homework, even before this episode under discussion. I would have to conclude, based on this experience, that if the rope will elongate 30% under the load of a lead fall, it could elongate that far under static load, given sufficient load. I just didn't expect that me by myself would be that sufficient load... but it makes sense to me to figure that if they are engineering twin ropes to always be loaded as paired strands, then a "climber-load" that would produce 10% elongation of a pair of strands, might conceivably produce double that elongation of an unpaired strand ...? Whatever the case, after this experience, I would never suggest anyone climb on a single strand twin-rope, even just toproping.

if you're looking for an all-round tool to use on glacier routes as well as vertical ice, consider an axe 60 -70 cm long; shorter would be of little use for most glacier routes, longer becomes unwieldy on very steep ground. The use of the "cane-length" ice-axe on low angle snow/ice has largely been replaced by the use of trekking poles.(with which few bother to master self-arrest, unfortunately) a bent shaft will make climbing steeper angles easier, but will make self-arrest trickier. unless you're planning on progressing directly to serac & waterfall climbing, a straight-shafted axe of 60-70 cm is likely your better beginning choice. I disagree that a crampon cannot be good for both low angle glacier travel and vertical ice climbing. It's true that specialized modern crampons handle vertical ice more readily than the classic twelve-point hinged crampon. And, it's true that rigid crampons clog up with sticky snow slightly more readily than hinged crampons - but top waterfall climbers like Will Gadd favor hinged poons on the nastiest new-age mixed climbs, and old-farts like me happily use rigid "waterfall" crampons on moderate glacier routes with no complaints. Most beginning ice-climbers do best on vertical ice with a rigid crampon: think "foot portaledges". The standard line of thinking is that these crampons ball up worse than hinged crampons on sticky snow - but you say you're planning to use then on Scarpa Invernos - as rigid a boot as you can find. I can pretty much guarantee that ANY crampon you mount on that boot will collect sticky snow -- the crampon won't flex and shed snow, because the boot holds it rigid. So, unless you plan to use the crampons on other boots besides your invernos (say, on a pair of approach shoes to get to an alpine rock climb on which you will change to rock shoes) you may be happiest with a "waterfall" style rigid crampon. Although I still keep an old pair of hinged poons in the bin for the summer alpine route on which I will wear approach tennies instead of boots, I have for over twenty years climbed everything from glacier trudges up Rainier to WI-6 pillars & curtains with rigid "waterfall" crampons. My current favorite is the DMM Terminator. the nice thing is, as long as you avoid buying a specialized high-performance tool (e.g. Petzl Nomic) or an ultralight racing crampon (aluminum as opposed to steel) most any modern axe or crampon will get you up 95% (likely more) of the ice you're likely to encounter.

No permit necessary for Enchantments after October 15, but that might be pushing the fly-fishing envelope at the upper lakes... evwen by mid September, there'll be less competition for the walk-in permits... If you're looking for solitude on a bigger peak, take a look at Mt. Adams -- lots less traffic than Rainier or Baker... or - back to the fly-fishing - just get hold of a map of the Alpine Lakes Wilderness, and play connect-the-lakes and consider devoting a day or two to chasing steelhead or salmon with your flyrod just for giggles. rivers like the Skykomish, Skagit, Wenatchee, and Methow are pretty much your access routes to the high country - might as well check 'em out...

sounds like Steph's leg must be coming along okay... congratulations!!!

they were reportedly on "Song of the Vulgar Goatmen", Hobo Gulch. rescuers estimated the dislodged rock to be in the neighborhood of 700lb - they used "jaws of life" tool to extricate the girl. injuries to brother and sister include spinal fractures, pelvic fractures, and physicians may not be able to save sister's foot which had been pinned under the block. the lead climber is a paramedic employed by Ballard Ambulance in Wenatchee. Shawn Ballard, the company owner, has served on the board of directors of the Chelan County Mountain Rescue Association for decades, and is keeping the Wenatchee area climbing community apprised of the pair's recovery... I'm guessing this family wouldn't object to folks prayin' for 'em...

While climbing on a single twin or half rope may appeal to the weight-paranoid, please take into account one very real safety issue - even if the rope doesn't BREAK under load, it will likely stretch enough that you'll hit something you'd rather not. I often climb alpine routes with a team of three - leader leads on double strands, following climbers come on single strand. The idea is to have the safety/strength of a team of three, climbing as fast as a team of two (followers climb simultaneously). Three years ago, I rigged a TOPROPE on an ice route with a single skinny rope. I popped off about forty feet up, loaded my top-rope belay, and hit the ground on rope-stretch -- hard enough to break both ankles!! There was no slack in the belay - the entire forty foot fall was ROPE STRETCH - felt like falling in slow motion, and I kept thinking I'd stop, but I didn't...(I had the full 60M of rope in play - less rope in play would mean less stretch, but you get the picture...) so - yeah - climbing single strand on ropes not designed for that use can get you hurt!!! you don't have to repeat my error to learn from it... for alpine routes - your stated use - the answer is simple, and I do it all the time -- just fold the rope double and climb shorter pitches or simulclimb.

where did you read about doubling a fat rope? I've never seen this practice recommended... I have for decades folded a twin-rope double for moderate alpine ground to save a bunch of weight. I'm having trouble imagining why you'd want to double a heavier rope.

Well done, Keenan!!! Where was Dad? Did you guys make it to Canada as planned? I've been out of touch. And,yeah, while it might feel like you're doing this for Jack - this is really a long-term investment for you... when you hit my age, Jack will be rope-gunning for you!! -- my own brother is twelve years younger than I, and although I did start him climbing, he gravitated to fishing, and worked his college summers guiding fly-fishing trips in Alaska. Which means thirty years later, I have my own private guide on the blue-ribbon fly streams in northern Idaho and western Montana... and Alaska when we can both get there... A couple years back, at a family reunion, John told me how he'd got hired for that fishing guide job: the company owner did a double take at his last name on his job app and asked "any relation to Curt?" and when John allowed as how, "yeah, I'm his little brother" the guy hired him on the spot! Turns out this guy had been one of the little Boy Scouts I'd worked with at Philmont back in the early '70s. Partners will come and go, but your brother? - well, you'll see... Say hi to your Dad, and stop through on your way east if you get the urge. -Haireball

"If you climb 5.11 then 5.7 is probably safe with any rope." My experience suggests this could be a dangerous way of thinking -- two buddies of mine on Serpentine arete (circa 1983) - high on the route where the climbing has eased off, buddy #1, competent on 5.11+, suggests they unrope to finish the route. buddy #2, less fit, competent to maybe 5.9, declines, so they stay roped. on the very next pitch, buddy #1 gets a bit hurried or careless, (maybe a mini-stroke? who knows?) ends up taking a forty-footer. "safe with any rope"? For going ultralight, I like doubling a single twin and limiting my pitches to 30 meters. On moderate routes, the pitch length is not really an issue, since we're probably simulclimbing large portions of the route anyway. The more critical issue, with the single twin, is that it limits your rappel possibilities to 30 meters. As other posters have already noted, on most classic (older) alpine routes, this is not a deal-breaker. Using a full-size single rope presents the same limitation, unless you carry a tag-line, adding even more weight. so - if you're serious about minimizing weight, buy the lightest, skinniest twin you can find, and climb on it doubled.

my alpine climbing packs have gear loops on the waist belt and on the shoulder straps, so when carrying these packs, I don't use the gear loops on my harness, but just rack on the pack's gear loops.

another pitch for DMM nuts -- they just seem to WORK. if you use bigger passive nuts like hexes -- go for the newer curved hexes from DMM, Wild Country, or Camp. The curve of the surfaces is the same as the WC rock (curved stopper), far superior to BD's venerable straight-walled hexcentric. Also, the DMM-WC-Camp versions are web slung. Why BD now limits their hex offerings to wire-slung versions mystifies me -- the wires wear out with use, and then you have to send them back to BD to have the wires replaced; and you can't use a wire to tie an emergency prusik. With a web slung hex, the sling can be used for a prusik, and when the sling gets old & tatty, just cut it off and tie in a new sling of web or cord. Quick. Cheap. Safe. Wires are for nuts too small to accept a full-strength web or cord sling. for carabiners - the Camp Nano is the smallest, lightest carabiner that I can easily operate with gloves on (ice, alpine) - so I am accumulating them. Yeah, Metolius makes a lighter unit, but that one is so small, I find it difficult to use for anything other than bolted sport climbs. I absolutely love DMM & WC stuff, but they don't offer anything quite as light as the nano, yet... for pocketed rock like tuff or limestone - a few tricams make life more enjoyable -- can be placed as an active cam in holes & pockets which will not accept the axle length of a normal spring-activated cam. alpine favorites: wart-hog - works in ice,rock,turf; same goes for spectres. petzl multihook functions as a nut-pick,v-thread tool, & wrench -- nice to carry a tool that does more than one job - I sharpened one edge of mine to function as a knife, as well, and keep it covered with a short piece of pneumatic hose (cut up old air hoses to cover ice-tool picks, also). DMM Revolvers - if you're hauling on big walls or guiding on big glaciers, you want a real pulley, but for light/fast alpine where you MIGHT want a pulley but HOPE you won't need one, the Revolver fits the bill.

pm sent

kurthicks - please clarify, if ya can - on the map you've so graciously provided, does "outside the permit zone" mean no permit is needed? I've used those high sites many times over the years, but usually outside the permit season, when the moraines are under snow. Which reminds me to qualify my "suggestion" -- when not snow-protected, the "desirable" high camp spots on the north aspect of Stuart might be EXTREMELY fragile - best minimize impact by locating any bivvy/camp either on snow or on rock...